72 duster resto

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  • Yanked the thumpr and listed it, the springs, and the lifters for resale.
  • Brian's cam should arrive in a couple days so i'll toss that in when it arrives.
  • Stripped paint off the valve-covers, sanded, washed, ready for repainting
  • Listed the old slant 6 radiator and fanshroud for $100 - not sure what they're worth
  • Got the CORRECT woodruff key for the crank (long one) so I have that ready for installing the timing chain.
  • New Howards Max Effort hydraulic lifters on their way to mate with the new cam
  • Cleaned off the 273 adjustable rockers and getting prepped for install on the heads
A few researching items:
  1. Pushrod length - not sure if I can start this one til I install the heads, but my plan is to get the geometry correction kit from Mike. Also reading through "HOW TO REBUILD YOUR SMALL-BLOCK MOPAR DON TAYLOR" alongside my factory manual for all the insight I can get.
  2. Cam degreeing - got the correct tools now so should be able to install without too much struggle
8.8 Rear end got stuck trying to find the dust shield that goes behind the rotor and holds the emergency brake hardware. For those who plan this swap, try to get everything you can at the junkyard. I finally found a guy who makes a replacement on ebay that is thicker than needed only other option was to drop $150 for a new pair of cast backing plates (which i already had) that come with dust shields. Soon as those arrive I can finish the rear and install it. Not going to wait til the engine / trans are back in because I am pretty sure the factory driveshaft isn't going to be the right size moving from 227/904 / 7.25" rear to a 360/727 to 8.8"

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I've enjoyed watching your progress but not had a lot to say. Wanted to tell you I had really good service from these guys for the shaft for my project. I kept the 904 and Slant but changed to an 8.75 and they did a good job and shipped quickly.

Driveshaft Specialist Home
 
Got the cam today.

IMM Engine's custom grind cam specs. Brian mentioned with the speedmasters, kb107 slugs, air gap intake, and this cam I'm probably in the 430-440 horsepower range naturally aspirated. Sounds good to me. With the 3:73's out back should be a pretty stout street car.

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Cam is in, will study up and degree it next.

Comp instructions are to remove the inner valvesprings on the heads for cam breakin and then reinstall them…. Do people actually do this? Sounds like a PITA…

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72smallairparticler said:
Comp instructions are to remove the inner valvesprings on the heads for cam breakin and then reinstall them…. Do people actually do this? Sounds like a PITA…
Click to expand...
YES!! Especially now since cam parts seem to be made of Chinesium and fail easily! I've been a fan of Comp Cams for decades, and am using one in my Jeep stroker build, but you have to treat them as fragile. There is a high probability of cam failure if you put full high RPM springs in for break in. In fact, you may even want to toss a set of worn-out stockers in for break-in to reduce the chance of cam/lifter failure even more. Once broken in, swap in the good stuff.
 
Hmmm ok. Guess I need a new valvespring removal tool since mine requires the heads to be off. But I do have the old stock valvesprings to install.
 
these are simple to use and cheap. piston at bdc, work as much cotton rope in through the spark plug hole as you can and turn towards tdc til the rope jams. go ahead and r&r the springs and repeat for each cylinder. many suggest compressed air in the cylinder through the spark plug hole but if you don't have a compressor or need to leave the job halfway through it becomes a pain. the rope won't go anywhere if left til you return, lol.
neil.
www.ebay.com

Valve Spring Compressor KD Tools 2078 | eBay

KD Tools 2078 compressor for removing valve spring keepers. If you are not happy.
www.ebay.com
 
mpgmike said:
That's the one I was going to recommend, but take a picture of mine and post it. You posted a link. Good job.
Click to expand...
Thanks fellas, I ordered one.

I can use my other tool to swap the springs out to my old springs before I put the heads on. Just have to clean them up because they're coated in 50 years of oil grime.

I've watched a few videos on cam degree process but im still a bit lost on my cam card and what im supposed to achieve.

Using my balancer as a wheel to turn my crankshaft for degree process I have set timing chain dot to dot and piston 1 is at TDC. (went past 0 on the dial indicator 50 clockwise and counter-clockwise to zero out the exact TDC.

When I dropped in two lifters into the intake and exhaust for cylinder 1 they're not even close to even and you can see the intake lobe is rotating on its way up toward max lift. So at this point I just have a few questions:
1) Cam specs say 104 degrees intake centerline - does this mean using my degree wheel I should be rotating from TDC 104 degrees to push that intake lobe to reach it's max lift (center line?)
2) Lobe separation is 108 degrees, does this mean from intake lobe center line to exhaust lobe centerline is 108 degrees?
3) Does this mean Im supposed to advance or retard the crank sprocket to reach intake lobe centerline at TDC?

Thanks in advance, or retard...

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72smallairparticler said:
But number 6 TDC means.. number 1 cylinder is also TDC.
Click to expand...

But not on the compression stroke. Cam is 180 (or 360 crank degrees) out from the compression stroke for #1.

The dot to dot method is easiest, but it doesn't put #1 at compression. Roll the motor over once and the cam will be at compression on #1 and the dots will both be at the top.
 
Makes sense. Very interesting these guys explaining this stuff online don't mention compression stroke but it's very clearly there in the FSM. Thanks Dion!
 
Lots of cleaning done tonight. Got the stock springs grime free and ready for cam break-in. Installing them on the heads next. Also cleaned up the 273 adjustable rockers. I also ruined my spacers by soaking them in white vinegar. :BangHead::BangHead: So need to find some replacements.

The shafts still need to be cleaned on the inside. Anyone know what cap replacements can be used for the ends? I wanna make sure the oil can flow well on these

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Got all the stock springs swapped on the heads.

Stuck trying to figure out whether my 273 adjustable rocker arm shafts are worth using or if I need to buy new ones



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  • Cam is degreed
  • Verified the harmonic balancer TDC groove is accurate to TDC at center of #1 rod rotation dwell
  • The 273 Stock adjustable Rockers are cleaned. Looking for a good set of replacement shafts, preferrably grooved
  • Cam is coated and got all the stock 360 springs installed on the SM heads to lower pressure for break in (per Comp's instructions)
  • Timing set is currently soaking in oil and then will be re-installed straight up dot to dot
  • Timing cover needs a little more cleaning done and then will install the main timing seal and then the timing set again
Gettin' closer every day. Thankful it's not feeling like science class anymore. I think outside of getting the right sized pushrods I'm just at the point of bolting on parts and then getting the engine ready to break in.

Have most folks done cam break in with the engine in or out of the car? I dont have an engine stand, but could probably bolt up some 2x4's on the floor to support it and just get it ready to go. What are the advantages / disadvantages of doing the cam breakin outside of the car?
 
I've personally always done them in the car until the last 2 engines. But I see why people do it with a fresh build outside the car. You can look for any leaks and address them much easier outside the car compared to trying to do it already installed or worse yet, having to pull the engine right back out to get at it.
 
When do you all find resistance with the damper on the woodruff key? Mine seems to be immediately. Before I mount my timing cover I wanted to check

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Summer has been wildly busy. I am going to miss my kids when they go back to school but also be relieved that we're not traveling anymore and can finally get this engine wrapped up and installed.

Got the rest of the block painted up again
Banana groove shafts on order
Doing measurements to make a B3 Engine valvetrain geometry correction kit order.
Balancer install tool arrives tomorrow so i'll get that on

Little by little, bit by bit...

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  • Timing cover installed
  • Water pump installed
  • Alt bracket installed
  • Damper installed
  • Just mocking up the rest to see where issues might be.
  • Head bolts are hand tight so I get measurements on the rockers when those are ready
looks like an engine again

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Well got stuck on valvetrain again.
I have some used banana groove shafts coming from Rocket. Meanwhile i was going to install my factory cast rockers to do the breakin since i have the pushrods… but then I noticed the valve stem height is pretty different between intake and exhaust valves. I messaged Brian at IMM engines about it so waiting to hear back.

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