73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

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HTRTrash said:
This is another very nice build. If it wasn't for FABO and all of the info coming from members, I am not sure I would be doing the in depth work I am involved in. FABO is hands-down the best site I have ever been a part of.
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and i'm inclined to agree!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
HTRTrash said:
This is another very nice build. If it wasn't for FABO and all of the info coming from members, I am not sure I would be doing the in depth work I am involved in. FABO is hands-down the best site I have ever been a part of.
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I agree..........
 
I just wanted to add my congratulations on the build you are doing. Everything is looking really nice. It is so good to see this car being brought back to a condition much better than it ever was from the factory. I'm glad you are the one who came to buy it and it didn't get parted and end up in the shredder.

I have a lot of good memories from that car. It was my first Duster. I'll call in the next weeks to get a first hand view.
 
7173Duster said:
I just wanted to add my congratulations on the build you are doing. Everything is looking really nice. It is so good to see this car being brought back to a condition much better than it ever was from the factory. I'm glad you are the one who came to buy it and it didn't get parted and end up in the shredder.

I have a lot of good memories from that car. It was my first Duster. I'll call in the next weeks to get a first hand view.
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Thanks,
I appreciate the positive comments, I'm usually around on the weekends.
 
So, I'm getting ready to start on the rear end, now that the tires are mounted I can start measuring things up. Heres some pics of what the plan is and where the direction of the car is headed. Since the rear Wilwood brakes aren't here yet, I used the front brake parts for some added bling, of course the offset is way off but you get the idea...I used AR Engineering brackets to use 11.75" Cordoba rotors with Wilwood custom shop Red rotors. The reason that thier custom is because the Part number to use with a 1" rotor does not come in red and since the rear kit will be Red, Black fronts would obviously not work here, so wilwood offers red only through thier custom shop. The wheels are Billet Specialties rallys in 17"x11" with a 4" BS. Once mounted the wheels measure 29.5" tall and 13.5" section width......Started some boring engine compartment body work now that all the welding is complete there....Ride height should be close to where the tire is mocked up, this will give me 3" of compression as long as the rear transmission/drive shaft tunnel has enough clearance.....hope you enjoy the Pics..
 

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sure is puuuurdy with those shiny wheels and big tures
 
hey Ross...there someone hiding under your car...or your new wheels grew legs
 
Tincup said:
Awsome, but could be lower.....
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Tin,
I agree and I will go as low as possible as long as everything clears properly, I would love to have the top of the rim even with the top of the wheel well lip, gotta love a chassis car look. maybe I can get away with 2" of compression instead of the conservative 3" I have now.
 
HemiDenny said:
hey Ross...there someone hiding under your car...or your new wheels grew legs
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Yea, thats the neighbor he stopped over to see what I was taking pictures of, so i put him to work holding the rotor and caliper in place for a couple more shots to get a better look and for FABO members viewing pleasure......I tried to hide him but he wasn't small enough.
 
I just stumbled on your thread. Very nice build! It is nice to see some more pro-tour style cars around rather than just the same ole' factory stuff. No offense to anybody! You will love the us cartool subframes. I have them in my car and they are one of the best parts i put on it. I could have saved you some money in the long run though on the front brakes. I just put a set of third gen vipers calipers and 13" rotors on mine and they are awsome! You will need the bigger brakes if you are really going to drive it hard. Very nice car and keep up the great work!
 
I like the look, but man that tire looks so close to the front of the fender. I am sure it is the way the picture looks maybe your neighbor moved it forward when you were not looking. lol

Question for you, Not being a body filler person, having never done it, do you have to sand the primer down to metal or can you fill over the primer? I know dumb question but hey gotta ask.
 
wracks71 said:
I just stumbled on your thread. Very nice build! It is nice to see some more pro-tour style cars around rather than just the same ole' factory stuff. No offense to anybody! You will love the us cartool subframes. I have them in my car and they are one of the best parts i put on it. I could have saved you some money in the long run though on the front brakes. I just put a set of third gen vipers calipers and 13" rotors on mine and they are awsome! You will need the bigger brakes if you are really going to drive it hard. Very nice car and keep up the great work!
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Thanks for the compliments...I looked into the viper calipers but the price got up there real fast with the adapters, and rotors..thanks again
 
t-granger said:
I like the look, but man that tire looks so close to the front of the fender. I am sure it is the way the picture looks maybe your neighbor moved it forward when you were not looking. lol

Question for you, Not being a body filler person, having never done it, do you have to sand the primer down to metal or can you fill over the primer? I know dumb question but hey gotta ask.
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Good eye T-,
If you look at the pics without the brakes being held in place you'll see a 1" diameter socket at the front being used as a spacer, once the neighbor got under the car he bumped the tire and the spacer fell out and the tire rolled to the front of the wheel well. With socket in place I have a little over 1" front and rear and since the tires are radials I figure that should be enough. Also once the tires were mounted on a 11" rim the section width is only a little over 13.5" so that gives me over 1 1/8" frame to quarter.
As far as body work goes the rep from Southern Poly coatings he said I could apply right over the epoxy primer but I still scuffed it with 80 grit just to give it extra bite.
 
76orangewagon said:
Tin,
I agree and I will go as low as possible as long as everything clears properly, I would love to have the top of the rim even with the top of the wheel well lip, gotta love a chassis car look. maybe I can get away with 2" of compression instead of the conservative 3" I have now.
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:thumblef:
 
I like the look...the wheels are killer....but cannot figure how to get these babies much lower and still be a "driver"..... without scrappin' all the underside goodies off

have you stuck the fronts up in thier new home yet??
 
HemiDenny said:
I like the look...the wheels are killer....but cannot figure how to get these babies much lower and still be a "driver"..... without scrappin' all the underside goodies off

have you stuck the fronts up in thier new home yet??
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I guess I'm just hoping that I will be able to go lower. Like I told Tin, I will go as low as possible and still have everthing work without rubbing, scraping or binding....As far as the fronts go, I didn't even order them yet, I wanted to focus on the rear suspension for now and get that done before I worried about the front. I probally wont mount the K frame until the shiny new paint is dry on the engine compartment and underside. I wish a tubular K was in the budget then I would just use air ride and drop it down when was parked.
 
believe it or not...I toyed with the thought of cutting the body completly off the frame/floorpan...and slammin' it about 4"

all I need is Swisswill and his plazma cutter....maybe for about an hour...
 
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