**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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Well I spent 6 hours in the car Tig Welding it all off. Some of the places are just too tight for my WP-11 Torch. I ordered a new WP-9 torch head and handle a few days ago. I already went to the welding shop and picked up the short back, collet, gas lens and cup so I am ready to finish it off once it is here.

Tig welding this cage off….. Well I can tell you I would NEVER do this again for anyone no matter how much they paid me. I have a new respect for guys that do this work. Hat's off is all I can say. I was pretty frustrated yesterday…….. all bound up like a pretzel.

I also found out the Window Gasket that was sent to me is not correct. It is for a Duster/Demon and guess what the guy don't have any for a 73 Scamp, SO……. I bought a the correct one and it will be here hopefully by Friday. The other one I will send back for a refund unless someone on here needs one for cheap. Let me know.
 
I gotta have some tunes, so I am ordering all my junk, nothing expensive. The whole system without the iPad "I already have the iPad" will cost $280.00 an that is Blue Toothed and all wiring. iPad to Wireless Blue Tooth Audio Interface to Parametric Pre Amp 7 band EQ with adjustable input voltage that will be mounted in the glove box to 4 channel amp to 6 speakers. There will be No head unit and I will try to hide most if not all of it. 2 6x9's in rear deck, Amp mounted upside down in between rear speakers. 2 6.5" speakers in pipe end caps at kick panels and 2 - 4" speakers in the dash with Capacitors on them so I don't smoke em'. This is a simple easy set up and very inexpensive.

Oh and the windshield gasket is SOLD.
 
Are you going to install a mini fridge and bar? :)

A stripper pole in the rear seat might be a big bonus. You got enough bars to mount one up!
 
crackedback said:
Are you going to install a mini fridge and bar? :)

A stripper pole in the rear seat might be a big bonus. You got enough bars to mount one up!
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Hey man whatever it takes, Lol I just ordered it all…. I forgot a Y Cable that goes from the Blue Tooth to the Pre Amp EQ, so total cost was $285.00

All Boss Audio except the Pre amp EQ that is made by Clarion and the Wireless Blue Tooth deal. It will be a nice clean install. The Pre Amp EQ is needed in a system like this without a head unit to step up the Voltage input coming from the iPad.
 
That will be cool. Have something to listen to while smacking it with a 250 shot! :)
 
Ordered the Carpet. Moss Green ended up being the color that is the closest to what is there.

The Window net is all fab'd up and ready for me to finish it off, "Weld off the tabs and Install kit", I ended up making my own mounting set up. Stealth as I could so you don't know it has a Net Provision when it is not in use. I will post pictures after it is all done.

This week I will go get the paint mixed up for the cage and have it put in Rattle Cans.

I am hoping to have the Cage Painted, the dash all put back together, Stereo installed and the carpet all done this week. We shall see.
 
Mad Dart said:
I gotta have some tunes, so I am ordering all my junk, nothing expensive. The whole system without the iPad "I already have the iPad" will cost $280.00 an that is Blue Toothed and all wiring. iPad to Wireless Blue Tooth Audio Interface to Parametric Pre Amp 7 band EQ with adjustable input voltage that will be mounted in the glove box to 4 channel amp to 6 speakers. There will be No head unit and I will try to hide most if not all of it. 2 6x9's in rear deck, Amp mounted upside down in between rear speakers. 2 6.5" speakers in pipe end caps at kick panels and 2 - 4" speakers in the dash with Capacitors on them so I don't smoke em'. This is a simple easy set up and very inexpensive.

Oh and the windshield gasket is SOLD.
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THIS is EXACTLY what I want to do! Now I have a direction I can start in. You tha man Louis.
 
clinteg said:
THIS is EXACTLY what I want to do! Now I have a direction I can start in. You tha man Louis.
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It should work out well. If you need any Capacitors for your smaller speakers. Here is where to get them. Just remember if you wire anything down to 2 ohms you will cut twice the frequency that the speaker sees from the 4 ohm rating. I am wiring the 4" speakers in Parallel with the 6.5's so all 4 of those speakers will see 2 Ohms and that in turn will double the power output of those channels also. The amp has an adjustable output to control how loud they get so they don't totally out power the back. The pre amp eq also has a Master Volume Control and a Fader for front to rear, so this should help too.

The amplifier I got has Active Crossover adjustment for both the front and rear channels. The 6x9's will get full range and the 6.5" 3 ways I will set the amp to start at around 200 Hz and up. The 4" little guys I am cutting everything from 600 Hz and down out of the equation using the Capacitors wired into the + side of the 4" speakers. Again this is a very simple install and VERY inexpensive.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i451_bass-blockers.html
 
Mad Dart said:
It should work out well. If you need any Capacitors for your smaller speakers. Here is where to get them. Just remember if you wire anything down to 2 ohms you will cut twice the frequency that the speaker sees from the 4 ohm rating. I am wiring the 4" speakers in Parallel with the 6.5's so all 4 of those speakers will see 2 Ohms and that in turn will double the power output of those channels also. The amp has an adjustable output to control how loud they get so they don't totally out power the back. The pre amp eq also has a Master Volume Control and a Fader for front to rear, so this should help too.

The amplifier I got has Active Crossover adjustment for both the front and rear channels. The 6x9's will get full range and the 6.5" 3 ways I will set the amp to start at around 200 Hz and up. The 4" little guys I am cutting everything from 600 Hz and down out of the equation using the Capacitors wired into the + side of the 4" speakers. Again this is a very simple install and VERY inexpensive.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i451_bass-blockers.html
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Sounds simple, but I'm kind of a retard when it comes to electronics. My roll bars go through the original speaker holes in the package tray so I need to figure out where to relocate 6X9's back there.
 
Been gathering all the little goodies to finish this thing off. I need to shorten the rear window cranks so I got some knobs for them and all the hardware. Misc stereo nuts bolts etc for the install. Misc window net hardware etc…….

Today I dropped off my 3rd member to be assembled for the 9" Rear then headed off to Smitty's for some paint in spray cans. It took them only about 15 minutes to fill 4 cans. I chose Amber Sherwood. It matches the interior pretty good, well at least I know it is all Mopar with the LOUD Interior & Paint Scheme's.Mean & Green on Green! Lol

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I got the net all tacked in. The Rod is removable and will go on the mounts when not in use. The net will be rolled up and Velcro strapped to the top of the swing out.

The 02 Sensor mount is tacked in and I messed with the dash speakers a bit. That was a PITA to get the Factory speaker out. Damn……….. I need to get some smaller 1 sided black sticky foam to go around the speaker plate so when I tighten them up into the dash I fill the gap and seal off the speakers to the dash opening.

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everything looks exceptional but I have to caution you on the window net installation. I doubt that will pass a tech inspection with the bottom bolted on like you have. please recheck the specs and make sure you have it correct. if you're not ever going to a track disreguard this.
 
bOb shingler said:
everything looks exceptional but I have to caution you on the window net installation. I doubt that will pass a tech inspection with the bottom bolted on like you have. please recheck the specs and make sure you have it correct. if you're not ever going to a track disreguard this.
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Yes it will pass tech. All of my friends have them attached like this and they all passed tech at more than a few tracks here in California. The only thing different on theirs is the top mounting, they used a Rod End on one side and a seat belt buckle on the other. I didn't like the way that looked so I changed it up a bit. Pete seen what I did and he says it is a good idea and will most likely be doing all of his like I did mine from now on. Also when I ordered the net from Stroud, Bob over there was telling me most install with the mounting grommets on the bottom and he sells a bunch like that. Stroud sews Steel Grommets into the net. I didn't just drill through the net material. The main concern is the net needs to be to the inside of all tubing incase of a roll over. This way if you are sliding on those tubes down the track the net will stay in tact keeping it from rubbing or ripping off and the driver from dragging his head down the speedway.

My good friend Pete is a Chassis Builder. He knows the rules very well and has helped me along with all of my concerns on the cage cert as well as passing tech inspection.
 
Tig welded on the cage some more…… Holy crap man this is a lot of work. Not that it is hard to Tig Weld. It is HARD as HELL to reach some areas without Popping a Lung, setting up for each weld is what takes so damn long. I got maybe 2 Hours left and it will be all done. I used up the new bottle of Argon, whiped that POS out. Going to get another new bottle tomorrow and some more Tig Rod.
 
Sweet set up I personally can only tig I don't know how to mig weld so my cage is all tig welded together as it everything else in this car

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