**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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younggun2.0 said:
what water pump you running? looks like aluminum housing? i got a 5.9 mag engine that im putting LA timing cover on. would like the weight savings of the alum pump.
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It is a PRW 8 Blade high flow blah blah blah.............lol

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRW-1431800-Mopar-318-360-Hi-Flow-Aluminum-Water-Pump-/111107802706?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19de8a8652&vxp=mtr"]PRW 1431800 Mopar 318 360 Hi Flow Aluminum Water Pump | eBay[/ame]
 
Mad, don't be surprised if you get a pm from me asking for you to send me those vacuum pump install pics in a bigger size, and some other questions as well. Looks like I may be needing to install one on my motor, pushing out oil past my breathers and header evac system, but I am running standard tension rings.

Maybe a random question, but how do you turn the engine over now with a bar having that crank mandrel on that pulley?
 
mshred said:
Mad, don't be surprised if you get a pm from me asking for you to send me those vacuum pump install pics in a bigger size, and some other questions as well. Looks like I may be needing to install one on my motor, pushing out oil past my breathers and header evac system, but I am running standard tension rings.

Maybe a random question, but how do you turn the engine over now with a bar having that crank mandrel on that pulley?
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No problem I have a dropbox link I can send you.

I think we passed the point of no return and all of our motors will have a Vac pump on them from now on! Lol

Good question on turning over the motor. I do have a Rubber banded oil wrench in about 3 different sizes that would probably do it. Most guys put a bump start switch under the hood for adjusting the valves which is what I will be doing here some day very soon! It is easy to do if you still have the starter relay under the hood. 2 wires to a momentary push button is all it takes. 1 from the big battery cable stud and the other from the starter relay stud... Done.

Matter of fact I am going to pick up the switch today! Thanks for reminding me.
 
Mad Dart said:
No problem I have a dropbox link I can send you.

I think we passed the point of no return and all of our motors will have a Vac pump on them from now on! Lol

Good question on turning over the motor. I do have a Rubber banded oil wrench in about 3 different sizes that would probably do it. Most guys put a bump start switch under the hood for adjusting the valves which is what I will be doing here some day very soon! It is easy to do if you still have the starter relay under the hood. 2 wires to a momentary push button is all it takes. 1 from the big battery cable stud and the other from the starter relay stud... Done.

Matter of fact I am going to pick up the switch today! Thanks for reminding me.
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Cool! I have a couple of things I am going to try first, but I have a funny feeling I will have to end up with a vacuum pump on the car...They do say once you put one on, even with standard tension oil rings, you'll want one on every engine! lol.

Glad I reminded you! I was looking and I thought, that looks nice, but a bit confusing to adjust valves.
 
Mad-Great work I love your threads and work ethic,I have a rookie question about the vac. pump,Are you pulling from both valve covers???? I have never used one but I'm intrigued to learn more about them.Just thinking to balance the pull of the pump you would suck from both sides equally and hence balance the seal of the rings again not dissing you just asking for more knowledge of how those vacuum pumps work--Thanks Steve
 
swifter said:
Mad-Great work I love your threads and work ethic,I have a rookie question about the vac. pump,Are you pulling from both valve covers???? I have never used one but I'm intrigued to learn more about them.Just thinking to balance the pull of the pump you would suck from both sides equally and hence balance the seal of the rings again not dissing you just asking for more knowledge of how those vacuum pumps work--Thanks Steve
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Most only pull from 1 valve cover. You can tee off and pull form both if you want. I told my race car builder buddy Pete that I was going to Y it off and hit both covers.... He said it is not necessary. I went with his suggestion because he has been at this game for 30+ years and has not seen any gains by doing the Y. I am sure I will learn more as I go along as usual.....
 
Transbrake VB is in & the Pan is back on & the wire landed on the solenoid!

I am hooking up the shifter. Mine cable comes in from the rear. I have to pull the bench seat and the carpet back out. The TB & 2 Step Wiring is all there and ready to just plug in. I forgot to run a couple wires for the shifter "N & P" safety hook up so when the seat is out I will be taking care of that as well. The shifter is a "Positive Trigger" for the "N & P" Safety but the "N" Safety is Negative Triggered at the factory starter relay "Terminal G" so I will be wiring in a Bosch Relay to take care of that issue.

Here is how it is done......

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Rodzilla said:
Wow, you are a man on a mission this year! I thought I've been getting lots done on my '71 sweptline, but when I come in here to look at your thread I feel like a lazy bum...lol.

Nice work!
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Thanks! I don't realize how much work I have done to the car until I look back at it. I basically rebuilt the whole damn thing.... Lol

After the shifter stuff is all done. I will be moving on to getting the Ford 9" that I have cut up and shortened set up with Ladder Bars.....
 
Mad Dart said:
Thanks! I don't realize how much work I have done to the car until I look back at it. I basically rebuilt the whole damn thing.... Lol
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I was thinking taht somewhere about 10 pages ago...lol. You did buy a nice paint job and interior tho :)
 
What is that doloooy that sits on the valve cover for the vac source? Does it fit into the standard 1.22" hole for a breather? I may need to incorporate it on my 540 if it has some kind of internal baffling.

Louis, this thread is an excellent example of why I bought a old KOS race car and put tags on it. Still have had to do a lot of work and rework, but the baseline was there. Love your build and go kick wazoo's wazoo.

BTW, is that little button on the seat for the juice or the brake?



 
airwoofer said:
What is that doloooy that sits on the valve cover for the vac source? Does it fit into the standard 1.22" hole for a breather? I may need to incorporate it on my 540 if it has some kind of internal baffling.

Louis, this thread is an excellent example of why I bought a old KOS race car and put tags on it. Still have had to do a lot of work and rework, but the baseline was there. Love your build and go kick wazoo's wazoo.

BTW, is that little button on the seat for the juice or the brake?



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Yes it is the breather set up to the intake of the Vac Pump. There is an 8 hole baffle in it and I still have the baffle under the valve cover. It does fit in the factory hole. On mine I had to use a die grinder and cut away the punched through material for that hole that went into the valve cover on the oil fill and the breather to the Vac pump to have enough thread bite on the them to make me feel comfortable.

The button on the seat is for the T Brake. The shifter has a thumb button on it but my buddy Pete says it is too slow and not to use it for the T Brake. The thumb button is double duty for a T Brake & lock out along with the lever. Sequence...... You know the deal.
 
moper said:
I was thinking taht somewhere about 10 pages ago...lol. You did buy a nice paint job and interior tho :)
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Yes nice paint and interior for sure. Accept the head liner! haaaaa

I am doing all I can while working on the car to keep the paint & body in good shape. Very difficult sometimes. I gotta hurry up and SLOW down! :D
 
Got a link to the part? I am putting the KOS 499s stuff on my 540 and need a better way to get the vac from the VC. That looks like it may work better than a bulkhead fitting. Plus my Indy VCs don't have any baffling.

And where is Bridge Street? I can't find it on the goog. I figure one of those streets near the airport would be the ticket if the cops didn't mind.
 
airwoofer said:
Got a link to the part? I am putting the KOS 499s stuff on my 540 and need a better way to get the vac from the VC. That looks like it may work better than a bulkhead fitting. Plus my Indy VCs don't have any baffling.

And where is Bridge Street? I can't find it on the goog. I figure one of those streets near the airport would be the ticket if the cops didn't mind.
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Bridge on Google...... Farms out there that is it.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/B...2!3m1!1s0x80db5dc9d0eec7e5:0xa387c74fa9245810

GZ Accessory Page for the breathers etc.

http://www.gzmotorsports.com/accessories.html
 
Those are 315 DRs right? I have MT 315/60s and even with a 3600 TB launch on the track they blow. That was with the wore out 499. Guess I need some better shocks.
 
airwoofer said:
Good to know next time I am out there visiting my Dad.

Strange how just about everything in vac is AN-12 and they use 1/2" NPT.

http://www.gzmotorsports.com/VCV102B-Vacuum-Control-Valve.html

How are you gonna set your relief? Load the engine up on the brake and look at the gauge or run it hard in 3rd and look at the gage?
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I was told by GZ to rev the engine to 5K in the garage and set it to my desired Vac to get it close then go out on the open road and test it out to fine tune it. I will start in the 12-15hg range and see what that does.

airwoofer= Those are 315 DRs right? I have MT 315/60s and even with a 3600 TB launch on the track they blow. That was with the wore out 499. Guess I need some better shocks.
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Yes mine are 315/60/15's.... Cords are showing now though so I will be mounting the 325/50/15's on the wheels I have. I will also be getting a set of 28x10.50x15 Slicks and mounting them on a different set of wheels for the track. My buddy told me he is going to give me a set of tires that he got for free. Supposedly they are still real good.
 
Rest of parts got here for plumbing the Vac Gauge for the Vac Pump. I got it all hooked up. Gauge is not mounted as of right now. I will final mount it when I take the bench seat back out for the shifter cable.
 
I was going to finish up the shifter cable etc today... Went outside took a breath and walked back in the house......... Lol way too humid after raining yesterday.
 
Went and got some wire today for wiring the Bosch Relay in for the N Safety. Pulled the seat and went to work. I got the shifter all hooked up, TB & N Safety all wired in. Put in 2 Gallons of trans fluid and fired the car off. It is all back together with only a couple minor clean up things to do.

I fired the car off in N and let it warm up while I adjusted the Vac Pump. It is pulling right at 4hg Vag at idle and 15hg Vac at about 4500 Rpm. If I revv it more it goes higher. I am still on stands so I didn't want to go too crazy. Once I got it all warm, checked the trans fluid and it was a little over full but the trans was not hot. Close enough for now. Once I take it for a whirl around the block I will check it again. Pretty sure it will be dead nuts at full.

So I put it in gear and tires started rolling, shifted 2nd, 3rd. All is good. I put the car back in 1st and turned on the Transbrake with my foot on the brake pedal, I press the button, let go of the brake pedal..... Tires are not moving, rev it up a bit and let the button go. BAMMM, tires move forward.... Lets try that again on the 2 Step........ Foot to the floor Tach is bouncing off 3500 Rpm, let the button go..... Bammm, tires take off......... Put car in reverse, no tires moving..... Push TB Button, Tires move in Reverse.

All is working good! Tomorrow I am going to try and break away to get the new 325/50/15's mounted so I can take it out for a spin.

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Got the new tires mounted and on the car. I took all the column shift linkage off and the shift lever as well. Ordered a new 4 pod gauge mount to replace the 3 pod unit. I also ordered a new vac gauge to match what I have already.

People say you loose oil pressure on the gauge with a Vac pump. So far that is untrue. I have about 8 more lbs at idle and even at 4k rpm I have 65psi.

Is this another busted myth??? Gots me thinking it is!
 
When I took off the old tires and had the new ones mounted, I measured how tall the wore out tires were. They ended up measuring 29.5" tall with a section width of 13.5" . I did not realize how tall they were. Anyway I am ordering a new set of rear wheels and a set of M/T
29.5 x 10.5 Drag Et's. They will be the wide versions with 11.2" tread width and 13.6" section width. I have plenty of room for them. Wheels will be Champion 15x12 with single bead lock. I will drill and screw the tire to the inside-side of the wheels.

Im on the final leg of getting it track ready with my first trip planned for August 23rd.
 
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