**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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mopar66 said:
you do AMAZING WORK !! ... and are extremely gifted !!
and you take the time to explain and show things to the people like me that are on a lower level ..

thanks
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x2
I plan to steal your crossover method.
 
mopar66 said:
you do AMAZING WORK !! ... and are extremely gifted !!
and you take the time to explain and show things to the people like me that are on a lower level ..

thanks
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Lol... Thanks for the props.

Idaho= x2 I plan to steal your crossover method.
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The TWEEK Chamber idea came from Chris..... turbodart68 , He don't come around much anymore.....
 
Well good thing I mocked everything up..... They drilled the rotor hats out to 5/8 but forgot to make them bigger for the shoulder of the Studs........ Also they put the brake brackets together using the wrong spacers and the stand out is WRONG as well and they did not put the extra spacers in the boxes.... BFS, I bought all of the parts for this Housing from the same vendor and they STILL could not get it right.. :banghead:

Another story of the American Worker making us look bad....... It is the 80/20 Rule, 20% of the people do 80% of their work correctly and with pride. The other 80% are there to just pick up a check and MILK the system. Sad but true fact! Is it Friday yet & where is my check crowd...... Joke :banghead:

On another note I got the TWEEK Chamber all welded off! :D

Ordering Stainless 8" shorty brake lines and a couple fittings that I don't have that are needed to complete the brake plumbing.

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Can't slow down and wait for the vendor. I fixed the Hat and got the calipers center of the Rotor all by my lonesome!

Tomorrow I will start to make the brackets for the Panhard Bar that attach to the housing and then the other one that goes inside the frame rail over the axle. I will be putting 4 or 5 locator holes in each one for fine tuning adjustment so if I raise or lower the car it will always be as close to parallel as possible.

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IMO this is a better alternative for a track locator:

Called an X-link, very consistent lateral location.

http://www.dragstuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3670&start=15

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451Cuda said:
I'm not talking about exhaust that hangs down like that...you can tuck it under the car pretty well.
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Was at the track 2 weeks ago. Every ladder bar car with exhaust out the side & in front of the rear tire I seen you could see everything. Mufflers etc. Only way to really tuck it up there is to have the front ladder bar cross member buried up in the car. Mine will be somewhat like that because I want the cars stance to be as low as possible. It may end up with enough room. Just don't know yet. I will see what I got to work with after it's under the car.

There is so much room on the picture you posted with the 4 link that an exhaust could be brought up an over that whole set up. To the rear of the car if you wanted.
 
Well today I replace the fan control module in my Excursion. Fan blew high all the time on AC... Weird ****. Dealer wanted 140$ for the part. Amazon 72$ Hard to get to one of the bolts but I finished it up in about 30 min. Fixed..... Done!

Also put the ladder bars back on the housing to make sure all is good. I am ordering all the lil parts that I don't have to complete all the brakes to the Chassis. New lines fittings etc.

Some garage tunes.......

[ame]http://youtu.be/H84XdiYN2h0[/ame]
 
The reason I suggest an alternative is with panhard bar even with ideal position and length it allows some side to side movement of the axle during articulation. This means you'll have to dial in some preload just to account for that, plus if you have tight clearance for tire to quarter you will most likely rub a little.

They do work, but there's better setups nowadays. Just my 2c.
 
451Cuda said:
The reason I suggest an alternative is with panhard bar even with ideal position and length it allows some side to side movement of the axle during articulation. This means you'll have to dial in some preload just to account for that, plus if you have tight clearance for tire to quarter you will most likely rub a little.

They do work, but there's better setups nowadays. Just my 2c.
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No problem, that is what this is all about, throwing out Idea's.

I swung the arch on the ground full droop and collapse of the suspension.
As long as the bar is level at ride height the axle will move 3/16" maximum either way. The key is the bar has to be set level at ride height and to use Solid Rod ends. No urethane bushed ones etc.

This will be the last car that I do with the stock floor in tact. Next one the sawzall is getting taken out of the case and I am going ape ****, back half time! No more messing around! Lol
 
I will be cutting out the spare tire well on this car and I want to mount a new fuel tank under the car using the new flat part that is created to support it. So, I have been putting some thought into making my own Aluminum fuel cell that will use the stock filler neck. I have not took on a large aluminum project like this but it seems straight forward enough. My aluminum TIG welds come out pretty good so I think it is time to put that skill to use. The tank will be most likely 20-24 Gallons for the use of e85 at some point.

I want everything pre built before I chop on the car so when I do go to install the Ladder bars the project can be done in a weekend. Tomorrow I will be sourcing some 3/16 Aluminum Sheet to get this project going and a new piece of sheet steel for the trunk area. I will most likely be making a home made brake that I can use to bend the aluminum sheet.
 
That was my original idea was to have the cell lowered down in the frame rails and then still use the filler neck. I just decided it wasnt important enough for me to spend the time figuring it all out and making it legal.

Are you saying your going to build the cell from 3/16" aluminum? That seems pretty heavy, you shouldnt need more than .125" sheet. Even at .125 your going to need a decent amount of force to bend it 90deg, 2 ft long or so.
 
junior636 said:
That was my original idea was to have the cell lowered down in the frame rails and then still use the filler neck. I just decided it wasnt important enough for me to spend the time figuring it all out and making it legal.

Are you saying your going to build the cell from 3/16" aluminum? That seems pretty heavy, you shouldnt need more than .125" sheet. Even at .125 your going to need a decent amount of force to bend it 90deg, 2 ft long or so.
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You may be correct on the thickness. I do know that a tank sitting on the bottom of itself has a different load on one that is suspended from the top. That is why I was thinking of using a thicker material. Of course I will do more research before I pull the trigger on it.

There is a guy that builds them to spec for Mopars..... Check out his sight. Expensive as all get out though. Talking $750.00 or so with all the stuff I need on mine. This guy ads a strap channel to help carry the load.

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http://www.themopardude.com/CUSTOM_GAS_TANKS.html
 
yea that hot rod city garage guy. they are nice tho
http://www.hotrodcitygarage.com/tanks.html

i got one from them, he narrowed it slightly for me so i have room for pipes

when you make yours i'd only mock it up then after you figure out the exhaust you know how wide the tank can be. also since you are making your own you can customize it for your fuel pump/feed/returns/sender/etc. that is awesome
 
I bought a Dad's custom fuel cell for my 67 TT car. It is 23.6 Gallons and sits in the trunk. I paid $550.00 for it. Since I am off that project for now. Maybe I will use it?? It is a bad *** tank. The guy does bitchen work.
 
moparlover said:
yea that hot rod city garage guy. they are nice tho
http://www.hotrodcitygarage.com/tanks.html

i got one from them, he narrowed it slightly for me so i have room for pipes

when you make yours i'd only mock it up then after you figure out the exhaust you know how wide the tank can be. also since you are making your own you can customize it for your fuel pump/feed/returns/sender/etc. that is awesome
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Thanks for the link. Those guys are about 45 miles from me. I will see what they can come up with.

Building one would be cool and it is an Idea but cost effectiveness will come into play. Even if I paid $600.00 for it. I would probably be miles ahead in the long run. Still tossing it around.
 
Called Louie @ Hot Rod City today.

A custom baffled 2 fitting sumped tank with 2 returns, vent & sending unit is $475.00 from what I told them over the phone. 22 gallon. I will verifying measurements and ordering one up.
 
I'm still here, somewhere. I mostly lurk, tired of some of the problems I encounter here when I post. I just read the tweak chamber thread funny stuff. Some people know it all. But, I digress. Nice work on the tweak chamber. Your going to love the sound!! I forgot to call you, we were at Barona the other day running our turbo car (brand X). That was my first time there what a cool track brings back memories of Carlsbad! Alright I like your idea of the aluminum tank below grade. I made my own and I thought I was beating the system but it took me many hours to build mine. Its 23 gallons and has provision for stock filler neck along with 2 outlets and 2 returns. You may be way ahead if you just bought one. TWEAK ON!!






 
turbodart68 said:
I'm still here, somewhere. I mostly lurk, tired of some of the problems I encounter here when I post. I just read the tweak chamber thread funny stuff. Some people know it all. But, I digress. Nice work on the tweak chamber. Your going to love the sound!! I forgot to call you, we were at Barona the other day running our turbo car (brand X). That was my first time there what a cool track brings back memories of Carlsbad! Alright I like your idea of the aluminum tank below grade. I made my own and I thought I was beating the system but it took me many hours to build mine. Its 23 gallons and has provision for stock filler neck along with 2 outlets and 2 returns. You may be way ahead if you just bought one. TWEAK ON!!






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Just damn,on fab skills '68...
 
turbodart68 said:
I'm still here, somewhere. I mostly lurk, tired of some of the problems I encounter here when I post. I just read the tweak chamber thread funny stuff. Some people know it all. But, I digress. Nice work on the tweak chamber. Your going to love the sound!! I forgot to call you, we were at Barona the other day running our turbo car (brand X). That was my first time there what a cool track brings back memories of Carlsbad! Alright I like your idea of the aluminum tank below grade. I made my own and I thought I was beating the system but it took me many hours to build mine. Its 23 gallons and has provision for stock filler neck along with 2 outlets and 2 returns. You may be way ahead if you just bought one. TWEAK ON!!

Yo Chris! I most likely will buy the tank. Time sourcing the parts, drive time & labor, I will be ahead buying it done. Not that I can't build one..... It just make dollars and sense to buy it.

Since the tank will be under the car using the stock filler neck it should pass tech without a rear firewall correct? Does the rubber grommet where the filler tube goes into the tank need to be under the factory rubber seal/cover? I've been thinking a lot about it.

As far as posting here.... When you've been there and done that many many times with real world results. It's hard to listen to the nay sayers........ Out of the box thinking is better served on YB.com , there is some really cool builds for sure over there....guys in the box are missing out without a doubt..."..

Like this one for example... Holy bageebers batman!!!!

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231554
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Still waiting for brake parts to get here. A new Vent bolt and Rear SS Brake drop line and fittings. It is too damn hot to work on the car. I will wait until it cools down before I start to cut it up.

I called my good friend Greg and he brought me over one of his laser's so I can level the car perfect and set the Ladder Bar system in the car exact! The Laser also shoots a line both ways so I can make sure all is square before I go ape **** welding it off.

I set the laser up to check all my work. The **** is dead on the money.... I used my iPhone Leveling app when tacking in all the brackets and leveling the housing on the stands. It worked perfect. I also use it for Pinion Angle's etc.

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