8.8 swap

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I am picking up and 8.8 (3.73 lsd) tomorrow and trying to decide whether or not to cut it down. I am building a 72 dart with a pro touring vibe. I plan on running late model mustang 17x9s in the rear. So I have 2 questions for those of you in the know.
1. If I run the stock length axle will it work with my wheel combo, and fit the wheel well? ( also installing dr. Diff offset shackles)

2. Will the offset of the pinion cause any issues in stock length?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
3rdcurve said:
I am picking up and 8.8 (3.73 lsd) tomorrow and trying to decide whether or not to cut it down. I am building a 72 dart with a pro touring vibe. I plan on running late model mustang 17x9s in the rear. So I have 2 questions for those of you in the know.
1. If I run the stock length axle will it work with my wheel combo, and fit the wheel well? ( also installing dr. Diff offset shackles)

2. Will the offset of the pinion cause any issues in stock length?

Thanks in advance for the help!
Click to expand...

Many run that exact combination and similar (B body rear in a Dart). The mopar 8 3/4 is also offset like the 8.8, the 8 3/4 is just not offset as much. Saying that, there are no issues running it in stock or cut length. Do you have BBP now? If so, I would put the wheels on and see where you are at.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Many run that exact combination and similar (B body rear in a Dart). The mopar 8 3/4 is also offset like the 8.8, the 8 3/4 is just not offset as much. Saying that, there are no issues running it in stock or cut length. Do you have BBP now? If so, I would put the wheels on and see where you are at.
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Thanks for the reply! I am currently running a small bolt pattern 7 1/4, so unfortunately no test fit. I am new to this forum, but have already picked up tons of useful info. I will check back in and try to add some photos.
 
Cut off all the extras on the 8.8, dressed it up, and dropped it off with my fab guy. Gonna go ahead and replace the clutch pack and all the bearings while it is getting cut down.
I posted this question in another thread, but I thought I would try here as well. I bought the offset hanger/shackle kit from dr. diff and the opening off the hanger is about 5/8" wider than my spring eye. Should I have a spacer with thhe kit to keep it tight?
 
I have the same Doctor Diff kit and bolted it on as came. Put about 1000 miles on it last year with no issues. I love the way it handled. No squeaks but did have a bit more than 1/4" side to side movement when hard cornering. That was with no sway bar on it and using Hotchkis rear springs. I also put in carbon fiber clutches in my 8.8 when I rebuilt mine. They are around $130, but loved them. I never ran it without the CF clutches so I can't compare.
 
you really need to jig up the rearend to weld it back together. it is only partially about warpage from welding. the rest is getting it aligned up to start with. i have done hundreds of rears and from experience that they are rarely truly straight to start. fords tend to have a little offset in the ends. extremely easy to be off angle,center some and the only way to be sure later is to put it on a good 4 wheel alighnment machine that can ck caster,toe in and that will still not show how well aligned in the vert,horz planes. my advice find someone with a jig and get it done right. I have never seen a home done one be completely right. my 2 cents.paul
 
Picked up my 8.8 from my the fabricator, prepped and painted the brake hardware, and ordered a trickflow rear diff cover with the carrier bearing supports. My next hurdle is brake lines. Do I get replacement Explorer lines? How about the E-brake. This rear came with no E brake hardware.
 
Ok I need to know the EXACT width of the explorer read from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. The op said his was 59 13/16 and everyone else is saying 59 1/2". If it's actually 59 1/2 that's gonna screw with my wheel selection since for the last few months I've been figuring out how to get the wheels I want to work and I finally found a set that would work with a full length rear IF it's 59 13/16 lik originally stated
 
75slant6 said:
Ok I need to know the EXACT width of the explorer read from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. The op said his was 59 13/16 and everyone else is saying 59 1/2". If it's actually 59 1/2 that's gonna screw with my wheel selection since for the last few months I've been figuring out how to get the wheels I want to work and I finally found a set that would work with a full length rear IF it's 59 13/16 lik originally stated
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Mine is out of a 99 Ford Explorer and it measured 59 1/2" wide before I cut it down.
 
Ok. Well I think maybe my math was off the first time. I simulated the rearend and wheels using a 2x4 and 2 blocks and measured everything out and put everything where it needed to be and I think 59 1/2" with 5mm spacers and and 9.5" wheels with 6.35" backspace should be perfect. I'll have to get the simulated setup under my car tho and make sure.
 
75slant6 said:
Ok. Well I think maybe my math was off the first time. I simulated the rearend and wheels using a 2x4 and 2 blocks and measured everything out and put everything where it needed to be and I think 59 1/2" with 5mm spacers and and 9.5" wheels with 6.35" backspace should be perfect. I'll have to get the simulated setup under my car tho and make sure.
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Don't forget to factor in the tire width. The sidewall protudes a bit beyond the edge of the wheel.

Just an FYI, I run a B body rear in my Sport, 59 1/2 outside to outside. My wheels are 10" with a 5 1/2 inch BS. I think they fit perfect.
 

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Yea I got that all figured in today. I used 72bluNblu's set up as a guide and my total outside/outside tire width will be about
1/4-1/2" narrower than his and since I'll be using 285s and he has 295s my tires inside/inside are a little wider than his. So a 9.5" rim with 6.35" BS and a 285 tire should bolt up to an uncut 8.8 and fit perfectly in a Duster!! I'll know for sure in a few...years :( LOL

Bad Sport said:
Don't forget to factor in the tire width. The sidewall protudes a bit beyond the edge of the wheel.

Just an FYI, I run a B body rear in my Sport, 59 1/2 outside to outside. My wheels are 10" with a 5 1/2 inch BS. I think they fit perfect.
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This is the route I'm taking ......thanks for all the info all !
 
IMO this is the only way to go unless your looking for matching specifics.

I used a 95 exploder rear. 3.73 ratio, locker and 31 splines with rear disc brakes for 150.00
Cut it down to 55 inch WMS and I am running a 18x10 with 4.5 BS and mini tubbed. Looks great and I will have the benifit of being able to go to any parts store and get what ever I need if something happens. :cheers:
 

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Nice! Just got home today with a 8.8 from a 97' explorer, limited slip 3.73 ratio and 31 splines with disc brakes and the extra passenger axle for $112.00....... can't wait to get started on it...
 
Sully_PA said:
Nice! Just got home today with a 8.8 from a 97' explorer, limited slip 3.73 ratio and 31 splines with disc brakes and the extra passenger axle for $112.00....... can't wait to get started on it...
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I did the exact same thing when I did my 8.8 swap. Bought the rear for $150 (4.10 limited slip), bought a brand new axle for $115, then cut the tube down 3". The first couple of pages in my build thread (signature) has some pics of the process.

Also, I agree 100% with SteveAle.
 
Bad Sport said:
Don't forget to factor in the tire width. The sidewall protudes a bit beyond the edge of the wheel.

Just an FYI, I run a B body rear in my Sport, 59 1/2 outside to outside. My wheels are 10" with a 5 1/2 inch BS. I think they fit perfect.
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I do like the look of your Sport. I wouldn't mind having a similar look in mine. It seems just about everyone here is cutting their longer tube, but has anyone ran into issues just leaving it at stock length? I know it was mentioned it could be done in a Duster and logic would lead me to believe the same would hold true for the Sport but I've been wrong before.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=276260&highlight=8.8

This thread is all I could find in a sea of people bickering about 8 3/4s vs 8.8s.

welderboy said:
Have my explorer 8.8 mocked up in the car, (1970 Dart) with 2005 and up mustang wheels (17x8, 6.3 bs), springs moved in 1/2" per side. The wheels are centered in the wells and 275/50/17's fit a little tight but may work. I chose not to narrow the rear - 8.75" pinion is offset 1 1/4" and 8.8 is 2" - thought about taking 3/4" out of the rear to put pinion in factory location, but new wheels seemed to cure that and the difference in pinion location (side to side) is 3/4" which equals about 1 degree which shouldn't hurt driveshaft angle.
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I was planning on doing 275/60/15s with 4.5 BS so unless this guy is off by a lot I think I won't have to worry about cutting the tubes.
 
Small issue today .....got all the mounts and brackets off the housing...opened it up to remove the c clips and axles and the damn 8mm bolt that holds the pin in broke off :( ....got a kit coming to try and remove it but what a *****...the one in the Junkyard I took the spare axle from came out no problem ...figures ....... seems it's a common occurrence ...man I hope I can get it out....
 
I have also heard that is a common issue. I had no problems here. It should come out pretty easy, they are not very tight. I replaced mine with a new one in case it had to come apart again.
 
Posted in another tread but thought I would put it here so it would be with the rest of the 8.8 info

74 Duster 318/904 8.8 Ford Explorer Stock Rearend Rear Springs moved in 1/2-?
Spring perches welded in based sping location,wheel well lip, and pinion angle ( lots of measuring)
See pictures

Axle centered in wheel well based on outside lip ( wanted wheels to have same space to wheel lip my stock axle was off too one side can't remember which)
Wheels 18X8.5X50mm Mustang so would not have to worry about Tie Rod interferance on front.
Tire size 245/45/18
Over 1/2" + clearance to Spings and more to to outside wheel well ( no spacers )
Will use adapter universal joint
Drive line corect length (lucked out thought I was gonna have to have one made measure remeasure)
Parking brakes Ford hooked into stock
Brake lines new Ford on calipars hooked into stock Mopar but have to move around some due to different hoses and 2 1/2 exhaust
Shocks have not got there yet figured will measure and go from there. Will use the Ford shock plates unless can find some 8 3/4 local ( I'm thrifty not cheap)

Will only let me upload one picture at a time so will be a couple and they are sideways must be IPAD thing
Hope this helped Someone
 

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