833 Assembly Woes...

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Yea, I meant in the bottom.
I have built the 309 set without dropping the cluster out.
I move the slider right to the forward edge and after it clears the cluster, I slide it back.
 
the front bearing has to be gone, mine was the 3.09 gear set after it's together, then install front bearing.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
install the heated front bearing with no rings at all using a pipe and plate by tapping on the inner and outer race together. Seat it on the input shaft then install the small snap ring. Pull front on the input and install the outer ring . Your done. You don't need much heat we put the bearing in the oven so the heat is uniform.
The bearing must be heated so it slides on the input with little force holding front on the input or you could damage the synchronizers.
Click to expand...
So, What was the Magic Number For the Oven Temperature?
 
I cleaned up the Bearing Surface of the Input Shaft on a Lathe with some Sandpaper... 220, 400, 600 then some Crocus Cloth
for about a half hour at a Low RPM. I don't think it really took anything off, it measured the same before and after. Maybe a half thou (.0005)
Gonna Try the @Oldmanmopar method this weekend.

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eekvonzipper said:
I cleaned up the Bearing Surface of the Input Shaft on a Lathe with some Sandpaper... 220, 400, 600 then some Crocus Cloth
for about a half hour at a Low RPM. I don't think it really took anything off, it measured the same before and after. Maybe a half thou (.0005)
Gonna Try the @Oldmanmopar method this weekend.

View attachment 1715940351

View attachment 1715940352
Click to expand...
You can assemble trans with front bearing, and input/cluster installed. Do it all the time. Make sure you use the oil slinger with that input.
 
eekvonzipper said:
My Brewers Rebuild Kit came with Rollers that
Were All .001 too big! Couldn't get the last one in...
Had to re-use my old rollers to load the Input shaft
All the Needle Bearings for the Cluster fit fine.
But the New Ones for the Input?
I have two sets now, no go.
Click to expand...
I did my four speed with a brewer's kit and I found it quite easy..
I'm wondering already if the needle bearings were just fine and you're trying to squish the last one in from inside instead of slipping it behind the other bearings?... I know in a lot of cases you can't just snap the last one in from inside you need to slip it in from the top behind the other bearings... Also I think you have to put the slider like in second gear or first gear or something so they hop over top of the counter shaft...
I know brewers provided a piece of PCV for the counter shaft...
 
perfacar said:
the #2 post is way i fix trans except, i put input shaft in lathe and sand bearing surface with 220 grit paper, i don't have to heat bearing then, by assembling whole trans with input assembled to main shaft can slide it through case easily, 3,4 slider has to be in 4th gear for it to clear 3rd gear as you slide unit in case I've ran mopar trans for lots of years, used this method always, just food for thought.
Click to expand...
On the new rollers you have to slide the last one in from the end in some cases. You can not always lay it inside the input, and push it into place.
 
I did mine on a bench .I do recall taking one of the shafts to work to use the press for the bearing, it may have been the output shaft. The "cluster gear" I think that was mentioned I beleive the OP is referring to the set of gears in the bottom of the trans housing, I used a "dummy shaft" to place all the rollers inside of it with either petroleum jelly or grease, then I knocked in the shaft while pushing the dummy shaft out. I believe the Chiltons manual says to do this or any manual for that matter. i used a 5/8 wooden dowel and wrapped it with masking tape to bring it up to the proper diameter to keep the roller bearings in place. From what I recall this "dummy shaft" part was the only pain in my *** with the whole thing. Or its the part where I could see a home builder having a difficult time. Other than that having a press for the output shaft bearing, and the snchro "dog ears" or what ever they were called the three fingers in the synchro assembly I had broken ones and had to order new... I did mine 15 or so years ago, keep in mind todays parts are outsourced, may not fit right typical "Jine ease" if you know what I mean :)
 
Dan Brewer said:
You can assemble trans with front bearing, and input/cluster installed. Do it all the time. Make sure you use the oil slinger with that input.
Click to expand...
What Oil Slinger??? Is there supposed to be something between the Bearing and the Gear?
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I install everything in the case with the input shaft on the front of the main shaft. Then install the heated front bearing with no rings at all using a pipe and plate by tapping on the inner and outer race together. Seat it on the input shaft then install the small snap ring. Pull front on the input and install the outer ring . Your done. You don't need much heat we put the bearing in the oven so the heat is uniform.

The bearing must be heated so it slides on the input with little force holding front on the input or you could damage the synchronizers.

It is also easier assembling the trans with the tailshaft housing mounted to a engine stand using the trans mount holes and face the input up. Put the case down onto the assembly its lighter then putting the assembly into the case.

I have done them both ways over the years. One thing about having the input already in the case with the roller bearings installed is you never know if the rollers stayed in place .

This is the way we do it now. I am sure there are many ways that work. The 18 splines are to heavy for me to throw around at my age. I did snake them together the hard way in the past. Not anymore. As far as dropping the cluster and trying to hold the front and rear thrust washers in place to push the shaft in. I don't do that
Click to expand...
Yeah Man! It took 30 Seconds with the Front Bearing Off...

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Oldmanmopar said:
Install the heated front bearing with no rings at all using a pipe and plate by tapping on the inner and outer race together. You don't need much heat we put the bearing in the oven so the heat is uniform.
Click to expand...

Will 250 Degrees do it? Less/More?
 
Finally Resolved and Absolved! So Relieved!!
Input in the Freezer Overnight, with the Oil Slinger on it (Thank You @Dan Brewer)
Front Bearing in the Oven for 30min @ 240 Degrees...
The Missus and I performed this surgery in about 10 minutes on an Engine Stand.
Thank You @Oldmanmopar, Your Method worked Great!
I've been Struggling with this for months and Now it's In!!!
FABO Rocks!!!

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