I found the lowest reading at about 1 o'clock and a max difference of 0.014" at about 7 o'clock. They say to cut the reading in half for an offset of 0.007". The service manual says a max offset of 0.008" is allowed, but as long as I had everything taken apart, why not mess with it? Offset alignment pins are available in 7, 14, and 21 thousands (I think). I bought the 0.007" pins, and after giving it my best shot, I was off by 0.004" at about 10 o'clock, I think it was. Should have been "0" but I didn't have the steam to remove and re-install the pins again. That was the no fun zone with the engine in the car.
833 Transmission won't disengage at stop after 100 miles.
- Thread starter Duggie
- Start date
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I found the lowest reading at about 1 o'clock and a max difference of 0.014" at about 7 o'clock. They say to cut the reading in half for an offset of 0.007". The service manual says a max offset of 0.008" is allowed, but as long as I had everything taken apart, why not mess with it? Offset alignment pins are available in 7, 14, and 21 thousands (I think). I bought the 0.007" pins, and after giving it my best shot, I was off by 0.004" at about 10 o'clock, I think it was. Should have been "0" but I didn't have the steam to remove and re-install the pins again. That was the no fun zone with the engine in the car.
6PakBee
Well-Known Member
Hmm. What were the face readings? With the problem with the pilot bushing I'd suspected that being cocked.
I didn't do a face reading. Is that common? What is accepted tollerance? I don't recall seeing that in the Factory Service Manual...
6PakBee
Well-Known Member
I don't have an FSM handy but here is a link to what they think is acceptable.
Bellhousing Alignment & Install Guide | Bowler Performance Transmissions
Bellhousing Alignment & Install Guide | Bowler Performance Transmissions
No kidding. I sure didn't run the dial indicator around the face. If it shows disengagement symptoms like that again, I'll go back inside and check the twice surfaced flywheel and parallel alignment of the bellhousing to flywheel.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
6PakBee
Well-Known Member
No problem. In all the bell housings I've ever checked, I've only run into one that had to be shimmed at the bolts to get the face to come in. If I had it to do all over I think I'd had a machine shop put the bell in a mill and check parallelism. If it was off, I'd probably have taken a cut on the transmission face of the bell to square it up rather than shim. I've had the most problems with resurfaced flywheels. Sometimes the shop doesn't clean the crank flange face of the flywheel or they don't get the hub of the grinder clean so the flywheel seats down square and the flywheel ends up being cocked in the grinder. One flywheel I had done twice before I decided the shop I was using just couldn't get it done and changed shops.
Finally got the Dart out for some road time today. Lengthened the 1-2 shift linkage one turn because 2nd was bumping the shifter handle on down shift and 2nd was jumping out on heavy deceleration. Cured...
And man, it is all good! Maybe even better than it's been since we bought the car. Replaced the new clutch and throw-out bearing, new pilot bushing, disassembled cleaned and lubed the shifter, offset pins between the block and bellhousing, and straightened / reinforced the Z bar with a new bellhousing mount for the Z bar. The little woman couldn't stop gushing about what a genius I am, and how great "her" little car drives.
You guys' advice is doing wonders for my sex life!!!
And man, it is all good! Maybe even better than it's been since we bought the car. Replaced the new clutch and throw-out bearing, new pilot bushing, disassembled cleaned and lubed the shifter, offset pins between the block and bellhousing, and straightened / reinforced the Z bar with a new bellhousing mount for the Z bar. The little woman couldn't stop gushing about what a genius I am, and how great "her" little car drives.
You guys' advice is doing wonders for my sex life!!!
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