904 Disassembly Results and Questions

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Dodge72

Dodge72

Odd one out
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So today I torn down my transmission after seeing this in the pan :

20200615_172131.jpg


This is the first time I've torn down a transmission. We measured input shaft play and got 053", which looks to be good.

Everything disassembled easily. I was careful in putting washers and snap rings in baggies and labeling. I'm pretty sure I found out why my trans won't shift from first...

This is from the rear drum and clutch pack.

20200620_125711.jpg

(This is the thicker front metal ring, the first one I took out.)


20200620_125750.jpg

20200620_125839.jpg

(One side of it)
20200620_125842.jpg

(Other side..the worst by far!)

20200620_125921.jpg


The front drum looked much better. A few worn, but overall looked like this :

20200620_132656.jpg


The metal plates on the front drum didn't have any hot spots. The rear drum (see pictures), I believe there were two thin plates and the front plate had heat.

This was the front band :

20200620_130302.jpg


(More pictures and questions in next post!)

20200620_125857.jpg
 
The rear band looked okay, all uniform in color and texture. The washers for the planetaries looked to be worn to me :

20200620_131542.jpg


20200620_131758.jpg


The output shaft bearing spun, and spin around too many times. I'll have to get that replaced. I didn't take apart the governer.

Questions :

-Is the wear on those washers for the planetaries normal or not?
-What should I look for when I disassemble the governer?
- What should I look for in the valve body, besides checking for all the check balls?
-I'm going to be installing a shift kit. Should I just go for the TF-2, even if this is a cruiser for a car? I won't be drag racing, maybe a few spirited drives.
-This is the rebuild kit I got. A904 HP Rebuild Kit A998 A999 Master Banner Overhaul Automatic Transmission Dodge Chrysler Jeep
Is this overkill? Or I guess a better question is, should I not use this and opt for more stock parts?
-This is a 1970 trans. I have a 72 slant six 904 that had the partial kickdown valve body. Would that work in this V8 904?
-I have a mild built 360 that I would guess has around 300 HP. I have 3.23 gears and 15" wheels. I have a stock torque converter...should I go for a better one? It's a hydraulic roller (not a retrofit, stock LA roller block.) Here's the cam card :

20190807_183601.jpg


I think that's all my questions right now. Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure while it's all apart I'm covering all bases. I really appreciate the help!
 
Rear clutch pac burns up due to a incorrectly adjusted kick down linkage.....

thrust washers usually mike around .060....
 
70aarcuda said:
Rear clutch pac burns up due to a incorrectly adjusted kick down linkage.....

thrust washers usually mike around .060....
Click to expand...

Awesome, I will check those and make sure they're still good. Unfortunately I bought this used and unknown, so it's not much of a surprise.
 
Indeed, I put all fresh fluid into it prior to taking it for my initial test drive in my car. I think I only drove it for one mile total before tearing it back out.

Guess who learned to rebuild a transmission before throwing it into the car? This lady!
 
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Planetary washer is worn and should be replaced. New steels and frictions in rear drum and check end play when assembled. These are great trannys, a stock rebuild should be fine. I wouldn't expect any surprises in the governor.
 
Number of frictions and steels vary depending upon model/usage. Simply replace with number removed. I recommend this book to really help you- Chrysler Torqueflite 904 & 727 by Tom Hand. A standard full rebuild kit should contain all the parts you need.
100_2648.JPG
 
A standard rebuild kit won't have selective thrust washers to address excessive end play. I would use V8 drums, or at least buy forward drum lower pressure plates to replace the top flat plates to increase clutch count by one in each 6 cyl drum.
 
One item that is seldom mentioned on both the 904 and the 727 is the rear clutch diaphragm spring. They can be cracked and for the few dollars involved, I would get one. Also, again for a few bucks, get the overrun clutch roller and spring kit, and they are year specific.
You've got apart, so I would think that all clutch's and steels will be replaced. Go with the TF-2 kit, a proven kit. Just make sure you follow the instructions to the letter and you won't have any problems with it. A stock 360 / 4bbl converter should be the 10 3/4" diameter one with a factory stall of around 2300-2400 rpm. Contact one of the high stall converter builders that have been mentioned many times on this board and give them all the information you have on your engine, diff ratio, and what the main purpose your car will be used for. They will advise you of the best suited converter for you. I've said it in the past and will say it again: When considering buying a performance converter, don't let price be your guide, as you will only get what you pay for.
Do it right ONCE
 
Hey all. I got that book plus the ATSG manual (plus the factory manual!). I have 4 clutch plates per drum in there. And yes, I'm just going to replace all steels and clutches in both drums; there was some worn in the front drum so there's no reason to throw them back in. Everything is from a V8 904: the only thing I wanted from the /6 904 was the valve body for the 71+ partial kickdown.

I also took a caliper to my rear planetery thrust washer and it was at .046". Front one measured at .18". They both look like they were worn down to copper so I am currently looking for new ones. And by the way, both front and rear are 4 pinion planetaries.
 
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Dodge72 said:
Hey all. I got that book plus the ATSG manual (plus the factory manual!). ave 4 clutch plates per drum in there. And yes, I'm just going to replace all steels and clutches in both drums; there was some worn in the front
I h​
drum so there's no reason to throw them back in. Everything is from a V8 904: the only thing I wanted from the /6 904 was the valve body for the 71+ partial kickdown.

I also took a caliper to my rear planetery thrust washer and it was at .046". Front one measured at .18". They both look like they were worn down to copper so I am currently looking for new ones. And by the way, both front and rear are 4 pinion planetaries.
Click to expand...

The book from Tom Hand is good and well-illustrated, but you did right getting the year correct service manual for your transmission - 904s changed over the years. Use the Tom Hand transmission book as a general guide, but when it comes to specifications/measurements stick strictly to the shop manual. Since Tom Hand used a later year 904, you might find some differences. Always compare both books, never rush, measure twice, and keep everything organized and clean.

My carelessly thrown together 904 overhaul kit from A&Reds contained a lot of parts, but many were not correct for the early transmission I have. Means, I had to order quite a few parts separately. Regarding parts, I liked://www.wittrans.com/, but you need to find the part# first - Mopar parts catalog or Trans Parts Online 904 904 Transmission Parts can help here.

Torque converter - go for a well-established builder with a high reputation and good customer/tech service

Regarding shift kits - since I like it original, I have not really a clue.

Good luck and happy building,

Wolfgang
 
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