A833 lubrication

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sydcuda

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Pardon the dumb question, but what's the best lubricant to use in an A833? I've done some reading on this but there is a lot of difference of opinion regarding use of ATF, synthetics, gear oil and the like. It's all very confusing.

Frank Adkins in his Chrysler Performance book suggests motor oil, something like 20W 50.

Any suggestions?

The climate here is best characterised as warm.
 
My father put Valvoline 85W-150 gear oil in the A833 4 speed in his 1970 Super Bee. Chose that based off of info in the Service Manual for that car and the reccomendation of a Mopar drag racer in this area.
The climate here can be described as warm...or freakin hot haha
 
I have had gear oil, ATF and manual tranny fluid in my A833OD. The tranny shifts the smoothest and quickest with the Penzoil Syncromesh manual tranny fluid that is currently in it.

When I first put the car back on the road in 2000 I figured I was treating it by using Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube but I could not down shift into second or first without gear crunch. At that time I went back to the ATF that was in it when I got the tranny. I ran that for several years until I decided to try the Penzoil lube.
 
I also use the 85W150 in my 833,works great!Also was recommended from a tranny guy friend..drag racer!LOL
 
I'm trying out Royal Purple gear oil, not enough driven miles to gage, but so far so good.
 
I tried synthetic in mine and didn't like it. It was hard to shift and noisy. Although I am not a big Pennzoil fan, I tried Pennzoil Syncromesh like DGC333 said, and I am very happy with the results. It shifts quite smooth and it's pretty quiet for a 34 year old transmission. toolmanmike
 
I used Jaime Passon's fluid in my RR, its a bit thinner than 80/90w but not as light as atf, shifts nice.
 
Thanks for the unput fellas, I cant seem to find Pennzoil Synchromesh over here so I might try the Valvoline 85W 150 gear oil and see how I go.
 
Old thread but I used synthetic and it leaked out of every possible crevice, seal and gasket it could .
After resealing the trans with new gaskets and I rings I've refilled with Lucas SAE 80w90 and have zero leaks and smoother shifting than I had before including downshifting.
My A833 took exactly 4 quarts and the level was barely under the fill hole.
Put my
Pinky finger in and could feel the fluid right under the hole level.

Not easy to fill with the squeeze bottles so I used a long clear tube and ran it inside the shifter hole and squeezed the bottles sitting inside the car.

It goes super slow and takes about a half hour to do it depending on diameter of your clear tube.
Expect your forearms to look like Popeyes after you finish.
 
By itself;
Full synthetic is Too slippery
Most gearoils are too heavy
ATF is too thin.
The oil needs to have a fairly heavy body too help match the speeds between the heavy geartrain and the bad-boy clutch disc. But if it's too heavy, it's hard to squeeze it out from the between the brass rings and the shiny polished cones. The brass lasts extra long, but shifts are slow.
If the oil is too thin, the gear train wants to keep on spinning (that's physics), and the synchro has to do all the work, and the shifts are slow. Eventually it gives up.
If the oil is too slippery,shifting is frustratingly slow.

The problem is that Chrysler did not provide adequate oil channels on their cones or in their brass rings, like other manufacturers did. And those heavy, nearly indestructible gears really need them.
To solve this, I cut three channels in the faces of each cone. They are about equidistant apart and slightly V-shaped and about 1/32" deep and 1/4" wide. With this mod, I can run any oil without any clash, and shifts are much faster, and require way less effort. The brass rings sem to lasy much longer as well. Ima guessing I have 75000 or more miles on the last set of used-when-installed rings.
After some experimentation, I settled on a 50/50 mix of ATF and 75wt Gearoil.It shifts a lil faster on straight ATF, but I thought it prudent to help the cluster pin a bit, so in went the gearoil. I'ma streeter so long-life trumps milliseconds.
I have tried a synthetic for a bit, but that stuff is desperate to escape the tranny.Penzoil I think it was.
 
I will say it again, for I don't know how many times.

I have been using full synthetic gear oil in 833's since 1979 or so, may have been 1980ish.

All that crap about being too thin etc is 100% bull crap.

As of today, I only use a GL6 rated gear oil.
 
In some of my older (1999 and prior) 4 or 5 speeds I became a big fan of the Pennzoil Synchromesh gearbox oil. I haven't tried it on an 833 but I do have an 833 I'm about to go through and rebuild. Is the Synchromesh working well for most folks in their A833?
 
I think you could probably fill it full of dirt and rocks just as long as it was full of something that would run just fine LOL
 
There's a general rule in the manufacturing industry, "if it doesn't need it, don't do it". IMO, If it's a street car you can use the standard gear lube. You don't need to waste your money on the hyped up, super shift, royal this, or syncro that lubes for the common enthusiast. If it's shifting hard and adjustments fail it may be time to look into the mechanicals for the cause.

However, in the tundra region, you may benefit using ATF.
 
There's a general rule in the manufacturing industry, "if it doesn't need it, don't do it". IMO, If it's a street car you can use the standard gear lube. You don't need to waste your money on the hyped up, super shift, royal this, or syncro that lubes for the common enthusiast. If it's shifting hard and adjustments fail it may be time to look into the mechanicals for the cause.

However, in the tundra region, you may benefit using ATF.


So nothing has improved since the 833 was designed? That is just plain silly. Lubrication has improved an hundred fold in the last 4 decades. Time to do some research and catch up.
 
I once added some Slick-50 Teflon grease via syringe to the 90w in my old three speed side loader and was very pleased with the improvement.
 
So nothing has improved since the 833 was designed? That is just plain silly. Lubrication has improved an hundred fold in the last 4 decades. Time to do some research and catch up.

All I'm saying is if you don't need it don't do it. If you feel it's worth the cost to you for whatever you gain, have at it.

BTW, I use that wonderful stuff in my Ram differential, the Mobil 1 Synthetic LS. Some folks were touting with this stuff friction modifier isn't necessary. Turns out the modifier is in fact necessary. Imagine that.

Here's some research for ya'.............

Gear Lube - DodgeForum.com
 
By itself;
Full synthetic is Too slippery
Most gearoils are too heavy
ATF is too thin.
The oil needs to have a fairly heavy body too help match the speeds between the heavy geartrain and the bad-boy clutch disc. But if it's too heavy, it's hard to squeeze it out from the between the brass rings and the shiny polished cones. The brass lasts extra long, but shifts are slow.
If the oil is too thin, the gear train wants to keep on spinning (that's physics), and the synchro has to do all the work, and the shifts are slow. Eventually it gives up.
If the oil is too slippery,shifting is frustratingly slow.

The problem is that Chrysler did not provide adequate oil channels on their cones or in their brass rings, like other manufacturers did. And those heavy, nearly indestructible gears really need them.
To solve this, I cut three channels in the faces of each cone. They are about equidistant apart and slightly V-shaped and about 1/32" deep and 1/4" wide. With this mod, I can run any oil without any clash, and shifts are much faster, and require way less effort. The brass rings sem to lasy much longer as well. Ima guessing I have 75000 or more miles on the last set of used-when-installed rings.
After some experimentation, I settled on a 50/50 mix of ATF and 75wt Gearoil.It shifts a lil faster on straight ATF, but I thought it prudent to help the cluster pin a bit, so in went the gearoil. I'ma streeter so long-life trumps milliseconds.
I have tried a synthetic for a bit, but that stuff is desperate to escape the tranny.Penzoil I think it was.


I agree 100 precent I run a mix of ATF +3 and redline synthetic 75w - 90 shifts great smooth and quick running like that for years
 
I tried synthetic in mine and didn't like it. It was hard to shift and noisy. Although I am not a big Pennzoil fan, I tried Pennzoil Syncromesh like DGC333 said, and I am very happy with the results. It shifts quite smooth and it's pretty quiet for a 34 year old transmission. toolmanmike
This is what I used.
 
Not easy to fill with the squeeze bottles so I used a long clear tube and ran it inside the shifter hole and squeezed the bottles sitting inside the car.

It goes super slow and takes about a half hour to do it depending on diameter of your clear tube.
Expect your forearms to look like Popeyes after you finish.

I used a clean 1-gal. oil jug, filled it with the proper gear oil (80W-90 GL-4). Then made two holes in the cap. Ran a 1/4" vinyl tube from an air regulator to the top of the jug. Another 1/2" vinyl tube from the bottom of the jug under the car and into the fill hole.

Apply 3-4 psi to the air input, sit back and wait until oil starts dripping. Still takes 15-20 min, but my forearms felt fine and can be used for working on other things while waiting :)

Caution: Do NOT attempt to speed up the process with more air. Once the bottom of the jug bulges out a little, that is plenty! Don't ask how I know. Actually don't ask my ex-wife's son :D
 
anyone run 75w-90 redline synthetic ik its fro diffs but it actually works well in transmissions in my experience
 
Didn't we hash this over last year? Oh yeah I see we did....
 
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I once added some Slick-50 Teflon grease via syringe to the 90w in my old three speed side loader and was very pleased with the improvement.

Blaaahhh.... Slick 50/Energy Release
Read up on the active ingredients...
Not good
 
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