AEM EFI starting & tuning (Gen3 426)

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CruzinFNC

CruzinFNC

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After 2 years of work and excruciating anticipation, I'm finally ready for the first fire up! :blob: I have a 66 Cuda with a brand spanking new Gen3 426 Hemi, controlled by a Mopar Performance AEM programmed ECM (gray box P5153528) with accompanying wiring harness connected to factory style sensors. I've checked to ensure power, switched power, and grounds are all properly connected at the appropriate pins on the ECM plug. The motor turns over but I'm not getting spark, nor is power being supplied to the fuel pump, but I can hear a relay clicking on in the EFI fuse box when first powered up. I'm pretty sure the box is alive.

I'm waiting for a FTDI based serial>usb adapter so I can check in with the computer via a laptop, and know I need to tune the ECM for this motor. However, I assumed that this ECM would be plug & play since it shipped with the crate motors and that the motor would at least fire up. Could the ECM be stuck in some sort of diagnostic or pre-initialization mode? Do I need to initialize the computer by specifying the crank/cam sensors or do some calibrations? I may just have to wait until next weekend when I have the adapter and can work on this again until I have more info.

In the meantime, if any of you have any experience with this ECM or tuning one and could share your experiences and wisdom, I'd be most grateful. :prayer: The anticipation is killing me!! Also, if anyone has a base tune similar to my setup that I can start with, that'd be the bees knees. Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Here's what it is:
6.1L based 426 (Indy Cyl Head shortblock)
Mopar Performance CNC ported heads w/ big valves
ported 6.1L intake manifold
SRT8 Jeep exhaust manifolds
Cam: 231/240 dur @ .05, .539/.544 lift, 113 LSA

Build thread <http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/17/11548.html?1446838489> Sorry, I've got a lot of catching up to do...
 
I don't know. However I'd LOVE to see the documentation. Is this available in pdf? I'm speaking of the ECU wiring and setup.
 
Thanks for the reply! Here's the documentation I have: <http://moparcarparts.com/instructions/P5155067.pdf>. The wiring harness schematic at the end is a super poor quality image. I've searched high and low for a better image, even calling Mopar Performance to no avail. The tech on the phone eventually searched google and suggested the document I already had, lol.
 
Well, thanks for trying. Damn I had high hopes. There are many guys looking for just that sort of thing.

Considering the money you must have paid, that isn't much of a manual, is it, LOL?
 
I would call Arrow Racing, I know they have experience with the AEM stuff. I think they are in your neck of the woods too.
 
67Dart, the harness I have is pretty straight forward and it'd be really hard to hook it up wrong. The only thing I was unsure of is whether the harness connects to the alternator; there were 2 stray wires coming out where the alternator would be. Based on this, I'm making the assumption the ECM regulates voltage and connected it accordingly. A clear schematic would have verified that! Here's another reference I used that has a more general electrical schematic on page 11 <http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/312/312-P5155189.pdf> for the Challenger Drag Pak, which seems to use the same AEM ECM.

72BBSwinger, thanks for the tip! I'll give them a call on Monday. Yep, not quite near me but it'd be fun making a road trip that way someday when I get this thing off the ground.
 
What I'm really looking for is something to help me (and others) who want to DIY, so a good clean diagram 'end to end' would be a big help. Of all the hemi swaps this seems to be a secret. There are people that will build them.........for a price.
 
CruzinFNC said:
After 2 years of work and excruciating anticipation, I'm finally ready for the first fire up! :blob: I have a 66 Cuda with a brand spanking new Gen3 426 Hemi, controlled by a Mopar Performance AEM programmed ECM (gray box P5153528) with accompanying wiring harness connected to factory style sensors. I've checked to ensure power, switched power, and grounds are all properly connected at the appropriate pins on the ECM plug. The motor turns over but I'm not getting spark, nor is power being supplied to the fuel pump, but I can hear a relay clicking on in the EFI fuse box when first powered up. I'm pretty sure the box is alive.

I'm waiting for a FTDI based serial>usb adapter so I can check in with the computer via a laptop, and know I need to tune the ECM for this motor. However, I assumed that this ECM would be plug & play since it shipped with the crate motors and that the motor would at least fire up. Could the ECM be stuck in some sort of diagnostic or pre-initialization mode? Do I need to initialize the computer by specifying the crank/cam sensors or do some calibrations? I may just have to wait until next weekend when I have the adapter and can work on this again until I have more info.

In the meantime, if any of you have any experience with this ECM or tuning one and could share your experiences and wisdom, I'd be most grateful. :prayer: The anticipation is killing me!! Also, if anyone has a base tune similar to my setup that I can start with, that'd be the bees knees. Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Here's what it is:
6.1L based 426 (Indy Cyl Head shortblock)
Mopar Performance CNC ported heads w/ big valves
ported 6.1L intake manifold
SRT8 Jeep exhaust manifolds
Cam: 231/240 dur @ .05, .539/.544 lift, 113 LSA

Build thread <http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/17/11548.html?1446838489> Sorry, I've got a lot of catching up to do...
Click to expand...

What injector size? You can copy one of my tunes from the Megasquirt thread that is a sticky in this sub forum. That'll get you moving in the right direction. You'll need to input your engine size and injector size into the tuning program for the VE tables to calculate correctly, though. Ask questions if that doesn't make sense.

67Dart273 said:
What I'm really looking for is something to help me (and others) who want to DIY, so a good clean diagram 'end to end' would be a big help. Of all the hemi swaps this seems to be a secret. There are people that will build them.........for a price.
Click to expand...

He's running an AEM box, which is entirely different than a factory ECU. If you want a schematic for an aftermarket ecu, my megasquirt how to thread covers that in depth.

If you want a wiring schematic for a factory ECU, you can go pull one for the LX manuals that are posted free on LX forums. Figuring out what year schematic to build it to, etc, that's up to you- no one has posted that info and I only know of 1-2 guys that went that route by doing it on their own.
 
CruisinFNC,
I'm using the MP (AEM) ECM and harness for my build also. My engine is a 6.1 based 392, similar to your specs except for the c.i. of course. My ECU came with a CD that includes a few tunes, including a basic one for start up, along with tons of information and schematics.

I'm up in NorCal, S.F. East Bay area to be specific. We should definitely get together. Please PM me, let's exchange info and get together!
 
Uhcoog1 said:
What injector size? You can copy one of my tunes from the Megasquirt thread that is a sticky in this sub forum. That'll get you moving in the right direction. You'll need to input your engine size and injector size into the tuning program for the VE tables to calculate correctly, though. Ask questions if that doesn't make sense.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I have the SRT4 stage 1 injectors (577cc/min, 55lb @ 58psi). I understand what you're saying about scaling the VE tables for my specific parameters. I'll take a look at the Megasquirt thread, thanks man.

Cuda SRT8, you are just the type of contributor I was hoping would chime in! Is your motor running? Have you tuned it? I've hodgepodged my setup together and acquired the ECU/harness as "throw ins" (!!) when I picked up my intake manifold, fuel rails/injectors, and cable operated TB from a guy on the STR8 Jeep forum, and didn't come with the CD, to which the instructions referred. That's been a missing link and I would LOVE to get a copy of that. When I first got the ECU I powered it up and was able to pull & push tunes to it and I'm somewhat familiar with the AEM software interface. I've also talked to Henry at AEM who gave me a base tune for it (a 392 oddly enough ;-) which I'll scale up. First, I need to at last know it can light the motor: spark & fuel. I live in Humboldt about 5hrs from you but have very good friends in the eastbay area. We definitely need to get together, I'll be in touch...

I'll contribute back to this thread when I gather more info and have resolved my issue. Stay tuned!
 
I played with some AEM stuff years ago in college for a project, but I'm not 100% sure how the Mopar box is set up. For the most part, I think all the AEM ECUs are more or less "universal" boxes where the only real different is how many drivers it has in it for injectors/coils and the harness plug and pinout in the case of "plug and play" systems.

Reading over the responses so far I was thinking it sounds like the box shipped blank and required a base tune to be input, but it sounds like you might have that. If it's not firing spark or fuel I'd think it's probably a sync issue. I had all sorts of issues with that as I was adapting the setup I was working on to an engine with no cam and crank sensors. I found out my mounts weren't solid enough so my air gaps on the sensors were moving around and dropping signal. That shouldn't be an issue for you when using factory sensors, but you might see if you can watch a datalog of the cam and crank tooth count during engine cranking. If you're getting a solid tooth count then I'd double check all the channels are set up correctly for the injectors and coils and see if you can probe those plugs for power.
 
I spent some time working on this issue last weekend. I found that the ECU was in fact activating the fuel pump correctly (5 sec) when the ignition was switched on, but I had a bad connection: fixed. However I still was not getting spark. I was able to connect to the ECU with the FTDI based USB/serial adapter and I confirmed that "Stat Sync'd" was "Off", confirming that it's a crank/cam syncing issue and preventing the ECU from activating spark. Thanks Map63Vette, your suggestion clued me in! I tried selecting the Dodge SRT-4 and Dodge Viper in the sensor wizard but neither of those worked. It seems I need to specifically configure the sensor, or better yet, get a copy of a known good & running calibration. Help me Cuda SRT8, you're my only hope. ;-) What would also be helpful to know is how many teeth the crank and cam reluctor wheels have for a ~2006 6.1L hemi. Anybody know this off the top of their heads?
 
Hang in there Cruzin, I'll get you that flash drive loaded with goodies ! As for 6.1 crank reluctor wheel, look at the Manley site for their stroker cranks. It will mention the reluctor wheels for 5.6 and 6.1 Hemis, yr. mdl., etc for getting you the right ring for your engine when buying their crank. Quickest reference I can think of. Worst case, I have a brand new 6.1 crank with ring significantly packaged for shipping. Would rather not unpackage it at this time when the info is available on the www.
 
Good luck with the FTDI USB, They are all fake on ebay. I got an old laptop with a serial interface still on it for my MS tune. But back to the topic: LEt us know what the issue was as its a drag when you get everything set up and the thing doesnt want to play.
 
CruzinFNC said:
I spent some time working on this issue last weekend. I found that the ECU was in fact activating the fuel pump correctly (5 sec) when the ignition was switched on, but I had a bad connection: fixed. However I still was not getting spark. I was able to connect to the ECU with the FTDI based USB/serial adapter and I confirmed that "Stat Sync'd" was "Off", confirming that it's a crank/cam syncing issue and preventing the ECU from activating spark. Thanks Map63Vette, your suggestion clued me in! I tried selecting the Dodge SRT-4 and Dodge Viper in the sensor wizard but neither of those worked. It seems I need to specifically configure the sensor, or better yet, get a copy of a known good & running calibration. Help me Cuda SRT8, you're my only hope. ;-) What would also be helpful to know is how many teeth the crank and cam reluctor wheels have for a ~2006 6.1L hemi. Anybody know this off the top of their heads?
Click to expand...

No problem, glad I could help! I had thought the crank wheel was a 36-1, but I think it changed at some point in the life of the engines too, so I wouldn't take my word for it. The cam wheel (if it's anything like the one in my 5.7) is an interesting affair with multiple windows staged at funny clocking angles, so I'm not sure how the AEM interprets it. It must have some capability though, as Mopar offers that ECU turn-key without mentioning any engine changes as far as I know.
 
Cruzin,
I bought a flash drive for you, but downloading from my desk top is not something I'm familiar with doing. I'll need to either have you walk me through it on the phone, or probably better, I'll find my CD and just download the whole thing for you...
 
That should be just what I need, thanks Cuda SRT8! I contacted AEM last week and they said they're no longer supporting this ECU, and have passed support to a 3rd party. I'll post their contact when I find my notes. If this doesn't work, I'm considering going with a factory setup since I have an 05 Ram ECU as a core to reflash. Then I'll just need to get a harness from Hotwire ...though I'd like to avoid spending another $1.5k in a whole new setup if I can avoid it! It's so frustrating to be at the very end of this long journey mechanically only to be stymied by electronics. I can see why folks throw up their hands and just go old school carbueration, like the guy I got my ECU from. Ugh!!
 
:cheers: The Hemi, it runs!!! Many thanks to Cuda SRT8 for providing the original programs that came with the AEM/Mopar EFI system (how do I officially give thanks to a member in this site?). I immediately noticed that the Mopar version of the AEM Pro software didn't have a menu to configure crank/cam sensors, and so I didn't have to bother with that. However, the solution to my issue was much more simple and mundane.

When I installed the Painless wiring kit, I decided to use the electric choke circuit feed for the switched 12v source to power the computer up. I chose that source because it is on with key on, is low amperage (ECU "turn-on" needs only minimal amps), and of course was superfluous since I wasn't running carbs. Turns out this source turns off during cranking!! The ECU would simply turn on with key on, turn off when cranking, and back on after cranking; it couldn't sense the crank reluctor wheel turn and therefore couldn't sync ignition, preventing coil activation. I simply jumpered in a constant 12v source to the ECU "turn-on" lead and it fired up after several revolutions. It idled right up using the 392 start tune provided with the Mopar/AEM package. Since I have a 426, the AFR was kinda high, so I selected all the fuel map values and bumped them up to quickly bring it into a safe range. I let it warm all the way up: no leaks, temp stayed in range, and it sounded WONDERFUL!! It's a bit sluggish to respond to throttle bumps, but I think that'll tune right out... now onto that arduous task. :computer:

A huge thanks to all who've contributed to this thread. Now that I'm just about done with the major step of getting it on the road, I'm considering documenting my build in a thread here on FABO to contribute to the knowledgebase for those masochistic fools going the swap route. :thumbrig:

p.s. The 3rd party that AEM has passed support to for the "old" universal style Mopar ECU (grey box) is company a named Streetlights (626-338-3207). I haven't contacted them but have little confidence they'll have as much knowledge on this ECU as AEM.
 
It's got a TKO500
Here's some pics...
Note: we were cautiously figuring out the alternator wiring, hence the fused excitor wires.
 

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Ok guys, here's an update.
I finally drove the car for the first time the weekend before last and it drove exactly like I imagined it would. The EFI gives it very good driveability starting up and cruising around; my girlfriend with no experience driving a muscle car (though she does now) could easily drive it. With the 3.23's and the TKO 500 (3.27 1st gear), the gearing is perfect for a wide range of driving. The TTi Xpipe and long Borla mufflers give it a very mellow sound. ...until I lay into it, and by 3k rpm its roaring to life and by 3.5-4k the cam kicks it in violently; it easily broke the 315's loose in 2nd gear at part throttle. Being the most powerful motor I've ever driven, it actually scared me a bit. I can't wait to unleash it on the track! Other than the initial pulse width bump, I haven't touched the tuning so it still runs a bit rich (safer than lean) and it idles a little high. That's the next step of course. This last weekend, I got the Streetlynx and Alterktion aligned and drove it the beautiful 150 miles home via a lonely, super tight and windy mountainous road. It was perfect for breaking the whole car in: hard acceleration & braking, a lot of shifting, and articulating the suspension & steering. Driving it moderately hard and running a bit rich, I got about 13mpg. Not bad, but that's only going to improve as it wears in and I tune it up. With 62k original miles on the body and extremely well preserved interior it's a clean sleeper, though the wheels and stance give it away a bit, especially if someone notices the 12.5" tires tucked in there. It now awaits patiently next to my 66 Valiant which is currently undergoing a BBP conversion w/ disc brakes and 8 3/4 upgrade. 2x 66's!
I.AM.STOKED! :headbang:

Edit: I forgot to mention my fix to the gotcha with the ECM power, which will likely assist somebody with a similar situation! I had to use a key on power source combined with a cranking on power source to keep the ECM switched on during key and cranking. There was no single power source on my ignition switch that supplied power for both. I used a Painless wiring kit but I think this applies to factory as well. Anybody know this? We were perplexed by this.:-k
 

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