After reviewing the engine removal threads I still have a couple questions.

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Miranthis

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I have read the engine removal thread for 273 V8 and manual trans. here ( Engine Removal ). I have a 66 Barracuda with stock 273 4bbl and A-833 and it is being disassembled so hood is off, radiator our, fenders off, etc. I am doing an "out the top" removal as we have to have it rolling until the rotisserie is ready and we can get it over to the body shop. Is it as 'simple as removing the carb, distributor and the bell housing bolts and then prying it apart (of course after the two motor mounts are disconnected)? How many bolts am i looking at for the bell housing? Does the starter need to come off first? The clutch tube is attached to the bell housing and frame so that comes off later, correct? Should I block the front of the trans or let it flop?

Any other tips for removal?
 
Put a block of wood or jack up the front of trans. I usually pull the trans with the engine.
 
Yup I agree with Al. I always pull transmission and engine as one. MUCH easier to disconnect the two and reconnect them out of the car. It's just not THAT much more work.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yup I agree with Al. I always pull transmission and engine as one. MUCH easier to disconnect the two and reconnect them out of the car. It's just not THAT much more work.
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Ok, its been 35 years since I had that 4 speed off, but I can do that. Separate them while on the cherry picker before putting the engine on a stand?

What to disconnect the clutch linkage? Just the torque rod to clutch fork, or does the torque shaft have to come off?
 
Miranthis said:
Ok, its been 35 years since I had that 4 speed off, but I can do that. Separate them while on the cherry picker before putting the engine on a stand?

What to disconnect the clutch linkage? Just the torque rod to clutch fork, or does the torque shaft have to come off?
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I always take off z bar and all. Linkages, shifter and all. That way there's no chance of damaging anything.
 
If you have a factory iron intake manifold, use one of those engine removal plates that bolts to the carb flange of the intake. lots of people say you can do it with an aluminum intake, but I wouldn't
Also, DO NOT try to do it by yourself. Have at least two buddies helping. Two people who have done it a lot can do it OK, but if you are rather inexperienced at pulling engines, I'd have three total!
 
Disconnect anything that touches the engine AND body.

Electrical, mechanical, exhaust, fuel, hydraulic, cooling, AC, clutch rods, z bar, shifter linkage, drive shaft etc.

After that, cherry picker on the engine and trans as a unit, unbolts the 2 bolts that hold the front engine mount insulators to the K frame, support the rear of the trans and unbolt the trans x member and the trans insulator from the trans / body

Raise the engine a bit, lower the rear of the trans a bit, keep doing that till the engine/ trans is being supported by the cherry picker.

Lift and level till your clear of the core support and body.
 
If you forget to disconnect something you'll find out pretty quick!! Its not that hard to go though the top.
 
Drain both engine and transmission before you pull them. If you just put in new gear oil in the trans and/or don't want to drain it for some reason, get and extra slip yoke (or pull yours off your driveshaft), or an aftermarket tool to use as a plug and wire it in so it won't slip out. Getting 90w all over the floor is a real stinky mess! Also, pulling the driver's side exhaust manifold loose first can make it much easier to get the drivetrain out the top.
 
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