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Biohazard
- Thread starter Teeth & Tires
- Start date
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Definitely seems like something amiss. Maybe that gasket is slightly taller than the OEM??
Seems like you should have threads at least to the top of the nut.
Seems like you should have threads at least to the top of the nut.
But is that the case for all years? Surely, there must've been some year-to-year variance?
Could have been, which would explain the choke linkage difference. How long is your choke linkage from center to center? Not sure if I still have the one from the 318 to check it against, or whether I sold it along with the carb.
EDIT: Just brought up my eBay pictures. Looks like I sold it along with the carb. Grrrrrr...
At worst, swapping the carb studs isn't difficult at all.
-Kurt
I have never seen a factory bbd with a thin gasket, the thick one is the proper one, it insulates the the fuel, maybe the current new ones are thicker that the factory.
I stand corrected.
If so, someone must have changed the carburetor studs sometime in the intake's life.
Teeth & Tires, how long are your current studs, and how many inches are they off? I have some spares and can check to see if I have the right size. If so, they're yours for shipping.
-Kurt
The one on there now is def too thick.
Nobody would have changed the studs on his car, it basically a virgin.
Bio shoot me a pm, I will mic the gasket I took off my truck, sorry I cannot give you the stud length, I gave the 2bbl intake to the junk man.
Bio shoot me a pm, I will mic the gasket I took off my truck, sorry I cannot give you the stud length, I gave the 2bbl intake to the junk man.
Maybe not, according to Sireland.
The choke linkage does move properly at its current height, correct? If so, operationally, either gasket would work - and I doubt if you'd ever feel the performance difference of having the minute extra plenum volume afforded by the thicker gasket vs. the thinner gasket.
I'd be partial to the thicker one myself. Less likely to succumb to damage from fuel, burning up from any backfires, etc.
-Kurt
It might have had a gasket similar in thickness to the one under my Valiant's Holley 1920 single-barrel - rigid, about 1/8" thick, and a bit more papery than the ~1/4" gasket on there now.
Let me get a picture... (EDIT: Will have to wait until morning. I don't have one that shows the gasket. Yet.)
-Kurt
Bio
Did you put the the thin 0.063" gasket under the choke housing?
FSM says to bent the choke rod for pull off IF every thing in the carb is 100%, I do not recommend this, if you have to bend the choke rod, you have something wrong.
Did you put the the thin 0.063" gasket under the choke housing?
FSM says to bent the choke rod for pull off IF every thing in the carb is 100%, I do not recommend this, if you have to bend the choke rod, you have something wrong.
I think it is a gasket issue, the only ones I have found that are close to factory height are the ones that come in a full kit from NAPA, the Fel-pro ones are alot thicker.
The Fel-pro ones for what I have seen are about 3/16" thicker.
These thicker gaskets seem to be common with GM and Ford OEM applications starting in the mid-1970's. Wouldn't be surprised if the gasket manufacturers simply tooled up the Mopar-application gaskets with the same material as a cheap alternative.
There might be a vendor for the proper ones on eBay. Saw a few on Google Images that looked similar to the material used on my Valiant's gasket.
If all else fails, try calling up Just Carburetors, Inc. - they're a few miles away from me in North Miami, but the owner (and only man operating the show), Omar, will not only have what you need, he'll probably know exactly what's going on with your setup before you finish explaining it to him over the phone. One of the best (and most knowledgeable) of the carburetor specialists in the country.
-Kurt
Alright, let's get caught up...
I bought one of those "ready to run" electronic HEI distributor systems. Came complete with 40kV coil.
Install was pretty easy. Some notes:
The coil bracket = useless. Not designed to fit SB Mopar manifolds. I used my stocker.
The positive wire to the coil has a D shaped terminal on it (factory); I had to drill and round it out to slip over the positive lug on the new coil. No biggie.
Works like champ, I have to say.
[ame=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/vr6pilot/Red%20Fish/D917CDB6-7285-492C-9D3E-F1030F5E6ACA_zpsgq2uminu.mp4]
[/ame]
Set initial timing to 13 degrees. So easy since the ignition firing was absolutely locked in place. Under the timing gun, my TDC mark didn't move AT ALL as opposed to the fore and aft drift I was getting with stock ignition gear. Man, what a difference. It even made my timing gun work better because the inductive pickup was able to 'feel' the ignition pulse more easily. All around just awesome and eliminates suspects while trying to sort the motor out.
I bought one of those "ready to run" electronic HEI distributor systems. Came complete with 40kV coil.
Install was pretty easy. Some notes:
The coil bracket = useless. Not designed to fit SB Mopar manifolds. I used my stocker.
The positive wire to the coil has a D shaped terminal on it (factory); I had to drill and round it out to slip over the positive lug on the new coil. No biggie.
Works like champ, I have to say.
[ame=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/vr6pilot/Red%20Fish/D917CDB6-7285-492C-9D3E-F1030F5E6ACA_zpsgq2uminu.mp4]
Set initial timing to 13 degrees. So easy since the ignition firing was absolutely locked in place. Under the timing gun, my TDC mark didn't move AT ALL as opposed to the fore and aft drift I was getting with stock ignition gear. Man, what a difference. It even made my timing gun work better because the inductive pickup was able to 'feel' the ignition pulse more easily. All around just awesome and eliminates suspects while trying to sort the motor out.
Almost forgot, this particular kit used a stock-style female distributor cap vs the male terminal HEI prongs. This allowed me to use my existing plug wires.
Kit did come with new 8mm wires. I'll just have a spare set, I guess.
Another nice little bit: once installed, the box containing the electronics is positioned at 6 o'clock or, up against the firewall. Helps hide it for more of a stock look. Nice.
It did move the location of plug wire #1 to right around 3 o'clock (viewed from the front). Not a problem, just something I need to remember.
Kit did come with new 8mm wires. I'll just have a spare set, I guess.
Another nice little bit: once installed, the box containing the electronics is positioned at 6 o'clock or, up against the firewall. Helps hide it for more of a stock look. Nice.
It did move the location of plug wire #1 to right around 3 o'clock (viewed from the front). Not a problem, just something I need to remember.
On to this matter of carb gaskets. I've installed the thin (1/8") base gasket. Seems this will retard the choke opening up as it warms which my car seems to need. I am now using that NOS thermostat with the rod in its unbent, unmolested form.
:cheers:
Sounds like it's just the way it should be, and it's happy. Congrats!
-Kurt
SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
Some how there is a joke in there.......................... I will laugh to myself.
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
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That motor runs GREAT! Was watching the air cleaner stud,and virtually zero vibration...
Steady as a clock with the new ignition. But...fueling still isn't right. I'll get to that in a few.
Wanted to get these pics of the new dizzy installed before I get too much out of sequence.
Closeup of the electronics box.
Chrome coil and red distributor cap all look nice in my red engine bay.
Temporary bypass of the ballast resistor. Deleting this is another little bonus.
Closeup of the electronics box.
Chrome coil and red distributor cap all look nice in my red engine bay.
Temporary bypass of the ballast resistor. Deleting this is another little bonus.
Current problem - for which I am seeking the collective FABO assistance.
Idles like a pro. Once warmed up, it will not accept any throttle no matter how slowly I bring it on. Acts like too much air or not enough fuel. I have moved the idle mix screws all over the place and fiddled around with the accelerator pump positions. Same result. Once the choke valve is fully opened, you simply can't give it any gas.
Video ---
[ame=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/vr6pilot/Red%20Fish/3EEAC95A-68D7-4DC5-A5AF-24C063EB085B_zps5uwvoccn.mp4]
[/ame]
However, if I hold the choke valve closed about 25-30 degrees, I can rev it up and make it sing. I can even do throttle blips and she will stay running.
So my question is a simple one: WTF?
Idles like a pro. Once warmed up, it will not accept any throttle no matter how slowly I bring it on. Acts like too much air or not enough fuel. I have moved the idle mix screws all over the place and fiddled around with the accelerator pump positions. Same result. Once the choke valve is fully opened, you simply can't give it any gas.
Video ---
[ame=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/vr6pilot/Red%20Fish/3EEAC95A-68D7-4DC5-A5AF-24C063EB085B_zps5uwvoccn.mp4]
However, if I hold the choke valve closed about 25-30 degrees, I can rev it up and make it sing. I can even do throttle blips and she will stay running.
So my question is a simple one: WTF?
While working on the fish, attracted the attention of and was visited by ...
...this guy
What a crazy thing is a Citröen SM.
...this guy
What a crazy thing is a Citröen SM.
Question: Will it stay idling if you close the idle mixture screws all the way?
-Kurt
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