Biohazard

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Fabo came through for me...using the search function, that is. Pretty sure I got it sorted out.
I was kinda wondering if the later-model trunk seal wouldn't be a better product (the bulbous D shape) but I decided to just order the 'correct' seal profile for the year. Need to get the adhesive on my way home tonight.
 
I'll keep that in mind. But I'll also be keeping in mind that most of my front suspension hardware isn't torqued down.
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Checked the tranny fluid and it's on the dipstick but still a bit below range. At least we know it's not over serviced and that that isn't the cause for the leakage. I still need fresh cardboard under the car to determine what its doing now.
Click to expand...



that's too bad
I had a tranny seepage issue with my duster after I re-installed the drivetrain last month
at some point I read online overfilling could cause it to blow tranny fluid out the vent, so I jacked up the front and took off the speedo drive
that drained out about 2 quarts of ATF and it hasn't leaked since
 
It could be a warped flange on the trans pan. They do tend to dimple up around the bolt holes,and can be trued easy enough. Or it could be the cork gasket. You could try the rubber one,but it MUST have flat flanges to seal .
 
Put the thicker carb gasket on and, right away, the choke valve landed right where it should.
Started the car up and backed her out of the garage under her own steam. It was glorious!

She'll sit there and idle till the tanks empty but wants to stall if I try to give it any gas once the engine is fully warmed up. Is the choke butterfly supposed to be completely vertical when the engine is fully warm or should there still be some pitch?
 
Should be a little pitch, not much. How many miles on engine? (not gonna try and find it if you already gave that info.) :D I would check to make sure accelerator pump is functioning properly.
 
It's s fresh rebuild, I have been screwing with the accel pump - carb was also rebuilt.
 
Any idea on idle vacuum? How much timing at idle? Most folks seem to benefit from more idle timing than factory settings from over four decades ago.
 
More advance. Advance is good, smartens up the idle, better fuel economy, more power etc........unless you hear pinging while driving or it is hard cranking over.


Is the choke pull off diaphragm good?
 
Pulls like a sled dog. I will need to check the diaphragms on that and on the distributor advancer. Will report when complete.

Thanks everyone!
 
Diaphragms are holding vacuum just fine. Not sure if the distributor advance mechanism is actually moving much. May need to go in and lubricate the moving bits.
 
Constant? Hmmm, intermittent is what I would say. But definitely getting back into it now. I just hate summer.

Been soaking the old trunk seal goo with wd40 since yesterday.
Gonna open the distributor tomorrow.
 
Removed and opened the dizzy. Oiled where the advance mechanism pivots. Can't really tell if that accomplished anything as the advancer is sprung pretty stiff. But, at least I know, having exercised it a bunch, that it will move like it should.

 
Video from a few days back.

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Got the car to where it would run warm, no problem. But it took a lot of fudging with the choke thermostat. More, I think, than it should have. While she was idling, I wanted to see what was up with the PCV valve. Pulled the hose from the valve which killed the motor instantly, of course. Plugged the line, started her up, and she ran (idled) like a champ. Noticeably better than with the valve connected. BUT...wouldn't let me give her any throttle. So, for now, I'm leaving her alone and getting some parts on order:

New PCV valve. (will replace hose, too)
New choke thermostat. (just plucked a NOS one from eBay)

Other fiddling I got done today....
Set points gap to 17 (it was a lot less than that)
Lubed the pivots for the points and the advancer.
Set timing to around 25. May change after the new parts go in.
Finally installed that new PCV grommet.



The old one had to be muscled out as it felt more like hard plastic than rubber.
 
Dan,

Thats some great scenery out your garage!

Sounds like most Mopars with a little belt squeel on start-up!
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Got the car to where it would run warm, no problem. But it took a lot of fudging with the choke thermostat. More, I think, than it should have. While she was idling, I wanted to see what was up with the PCV valve. Pulled the hose from the valve which killed the motor instantly, of course. Plugged the line, started her up, and she ran (idled) like a champ. Noticeably better than with the valve connected. BUT...wouldn't let me give her any throttle. So, for now, I'm leaving her alone and getting some parts on order:

New PCV valve. (will replace hose, too)
New choke thermostat. (just plucked a NOS one from eBay)

Other fiddling I got done today....
Set points gap to 17 (it was a lot less than that)
Lubed the pivots for the points and the advancer.
Set timing to around 25. May change after the new parts go in.
Finally installed that new PCV grommet.



The old one had to be muscled out as it felt more like hard plastic than rubber.
Click to expand...

Hello,
I would like to recommend a couple things on tunning.

For starters, lets get your timing right. Setting your initial at 25 is way to high.Just a guesstimate, but thats putting your total timing around 45. Not good. Without reading your entire post, it looks like you have a stock, or mild 318. Most small blocks run best at 12-14 initial 34-36 total timing.

Vacuum Advance. Your distributor looks pretty old.Im going to go out on a limb and say the vacuum advance diaphragm is toast. So at this point, take the vacuum advance out of the picture, and just plug the port on the carb where it goes. You can visit vacuum advance tunning down the road. My recommendation, would be to get a nice rebuilt distrbutor, or even go to electronic.

Looks like you have a Carter BBD. Make sure you know how to set the a/f ratio on it at idle. As well as setting the correct idle.

Assuming you have good compression, there are no vacuum leaks, all the ignition parts are in order, and its getting fuel, your car should now idle much better.
 
I certainly do welcome the voices of experience in getting this thing set right. I probably need to clarify some things.

First, I won't be taking any steps until that new PCV valve and thermostat go in. The valve is definitely having a profound impact on idle and my thermostat - well, not sure on that but it seems I can get it right for either cold or warm running but not both. It also appears that the actuator rod going to the choke was brazed together at some point so who even knows what's going on with that.

Yes-motor is basically stock aside from the .030 overbore and 3-angle valve/seat grind. Engine mods are not on the itinerary.

My timing came to 25 with vacuum going to the distributor so that's not my basic timing figure. Considering I was probably compensating for some, at the time, undiscovered vacuum problem I wouldn't think too much about that setting as it will probably change after the other parts go in.

As for the vac advance unit - if I put mouth suction to the tubing, it will move. However, from what I've seen from all the other rubber parts on the car, I doubt that diaphragm is as pliant as it ought to be anymore. When I had the distributor open, I poked around to see what would be involved in replacing that actuator. edit -- looks pretty straightforward; two screws, pry end out of whole in arm, replace.

Dwell meter: yeah, I should get one. But I should get a lot of things. Lol

View: yes!! It is a happy work space all around. Wish I could spend more time in it.
 
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