SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
I dont know if I could keep that car outside even if it smelled, too nice.
Biohazard
- Thread starter Teeth & Tires
- Start date
-
Presently, my phone is in worse shape than my car so, no pics to add but some baby-steps have been made:
BRAKES
Removed the master cylinder (the new one) cleaned it up and painted it black...reinstalled it.
Purged all brake lines, connected them, and bled the brakes at all four points.
Topped system off with Valvoline 3/4 synthetic.
REAR END
Removed differential cover and drained the old gear oil. Nasty, nasty, nasty.
Blasted the diff out with some choke cleaner, mostly to aid in flushing the old oil.
Reinstalled cover with new gasket and serviced with Valvoline 75w90 synthetic gear lube.
STARTING
Tested my starting system. I had been using a jumper from the battery direct to the ign coil. Needed to see if the key switch would do the job. With the key "ON" the car will start and run if I use the remote start trigger. But, the key switch isn't spinning the starter. So, I need to troubleshoot why the key switch is not sending voltage to the start solenoid.
On the up side, running the car with voltage actually going thru the ballast resistor (which is bypassed when I use the jumper wire) kept the battery from bubbling over while the engine was running. Suggests my voltage regulator is fine. Had a + reading on the ammeter while it was idling, too.
BRAKES
Removed the master cylinder (the new one) cleaned it up and painted it black...reinstalled it.
Purged all brake lines, connected them, and bled the brakes at all four points.
Topped system off with Valvoline 3/4 synthetic.
REAR END
Removed differential cover and drained the old gear oil. Nasty, nasty, nasty.
Blasted the diff out with some choke cleaner, mostly to aid in flushing the old oil.
Reinstalled cover with new gasket and serviced with Valvoline 75w90 synthetic gear lube.
STARTING
Tested my starting system. I had been using a jumper from the battery direct to the ign coil. Needed to see if the key switch would do the job. With the key "ON" the car will start and run if I use the remote start trigger. But, the key switch isn't spinning the starter. So, I need to troubleshoot why the key switch is not sending voltage to the start solenoid.
On the up side, running the car with voltage actually going thru the ballast resistor (which is bypassed when I use the jumper wire) kept the battery from bubbling over while the engine was running. Suggests my voltage regulator is fine. Had a + reading on the ammeter while it was idling, too.
You are making progress.
I assume that the car has an open differential since you used synthetic oil in the rear.
Sure grips and synthetic oil do not play well together.
I assume that the car has an open differential since you used synthetic oil in the rear.
Sure grips and synthetic oil do not play well together.
Open diff. Garden-variety 7 1/4" rear end.
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
- 266
Hmm,nasty gear oil in the baby diff huh? I hope thats not a problem down the road.
Well...as you probably know, gear oil is about THE most foul-smelling product anywhere on these cars. I should have done this job outside but, oh well. It was very dark as well but there was nothing chunky in it and it poured rather smoothly. All I can do is replenish it, which I have, and drive it till I see smoke coming from one of the wheel bearings or there is a catastrophic failure. I ran it in gear with the arse off the ground and the rear end spun smoothly and silently.
....and the fresh oil smelled just as bad, lol.
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
- 266
Lol.It's probably fine if no metal was in the oil. And you have a stocker here,so no real power to break stuff.
No, I didn't detect anything metallic in the old fluid. It probably was changed at least once in its life....law of probability.
Now to hunt down the source of my tranny leakage.
So the trans was leaving two separate wet spots on the sheet of cardboard I was using to catch drips. Got under there last night with the drop light and here's what I found:
Every single one of the oil pan bolt heads had bright red fluid hanging from them. As if the pan gasket was seeping all the way around. I put a socket on 'em and they all easily moved about an 1/8 turn. I didn't turn them in too much past that because we know that's not how you do cork gaskets. Only time and a fresh sheet of cardboard will tell if that solves that.
Second drip source was much easier to sort out. I still haven't run a speedo cable so, with nothing screwed in there, the speedometer drive output seeped a bit.
After all that. I put all the wheels back on and lowered her back to the floor. With a complete and serviced brake system, I decided to fire up the engine, put her in gear, and see if the brakes would hold the car in place. The claims adjuster says they'll pay to rebuild the studs, the electrical, and the sheet rock at the back wall...just kidding. Car held its place despite what felt like an assload of torque during fast idle. Made me real happy to have those three systems all functioning at once (engine, trans, brakes). What felt even better was being behind the wheel while she was idling and manipulating the controls...especially, the throttle. For just a moment, it felt like I could roll her down the boulevard but the short piece of 6x6 I was perched on with no back support brought me quickly back to reality. All in all, it was a good night.
Every single one of the oil pan bolt heads had bright red fluid hanging from them. As if the pan gasket was seeping all the way around. I put a socket on 'em and they all easily moved about an 1/8 turn. I didn't turn them in too much past that because we know that's not how you do cork gaskets. Only time and a fresh sheet of cardboard will tell if that solves that.
Second drip source was much easier to sort out. I still haven't run a speedo cable so, with nothing screwed in there, the speedometer drive output seeped a bit.
After all that. I put all the wheels back on and lowered her back to the floor. With a complete and serviced brake system, I decided to fire up the engine, put her in gear, and see if the brakes would hold the car in place. The claims adjuster says they'll pay to rebuild the studs, the electrical, and the sheet rock at the back wall...just kidding. Car held its place despite what felt like an assload of torque during fast idle. Made me real happy to have those three systems all functioning at once (engine, trans, brakes). What felt even better was being behind the wheel while she was idling and manipulating the controls...especially, the throttle. For just a moment, it felt like I could roll her down the boulevard but the short piece of 6x6 I was perched on with no back support brought me quickly back to reality. All in all, it was a good night.
Under is the greater likelihood. But I'll get it warmed up, into neutral and check it again.
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
- 266
Theres nothing more satisfying than seeing and hearing your ride run again.I've been waiting 21 years...
That's too long.
SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
Waaayyyyyyy too long!!!!!
When you gonna get brave and venture around the block?? :glasses7:
Dodgy proposition with NO lights at all! It's completely dark by the time I get home these days. I'd say first real venture will be just moving in and out of the garage on its own.
Got a list of things I want to do tonight after work. Nothing major. Some things I need to get inventory on. Like, do I still have my hood pad clips? Door card clips? Want to test my ignition coil's resistance, make some carb linkage adjustments, and check that trans fluid situation. Gonna replace all my vacuum hoses so I'm pulling them off to make sure I get the right size at O'Reilly's. Little stuff.
Not to celebrate too early but - I was sifting thru FABO looking for pinout info on the ignition switch so I could sort out why it's not motoring the starter. Eventually came across someone else troubleshooting a 'no crank' condition and another poster suggested checking the neutral safety switch circuit, which could just be the case. It's the first thing I'll be checking when I get home.
If You Don't already have this you need it.
Nice entry, Gerald! You were the guy suggesting the NSS check. And thanks for that wiring reference. I was hoping to not need such a thing as everything was functioning when I brought her home.
[ame=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/vr6pilot/Red%20Fish/1B991794-7880-49BA-BB28-8F5AF396864A_zps7ubhimqw.mp4]
[/ame]
For the benefit of those who lack the plugin, video shows the car cranking and firing off with the key.
For the benefit of those who lack the plugin, video shows the car cranking and firing off with the key.
My most excellent driver's seat...
Alright, last night was productive I'm pleased to say.
Ignition coil tested perfectly within spec. Right at midway of the range for both primary and secondary resistance.
I had some vac hose leftover from work done on my VW so I used it to replace the lines going to the choke pull-off and the distributor. The old hose was just ridiculously brittle and dried out - not reliable - and I know how tiny little vacuum leaks can wreak havoc with a motor.
Ran some tests on the no-crank situation and never did figure out why it wasn't cranking but I will assume it was one of two things: either the shift linkage not being in exactly the right position to close the neutral safety switch or my key switch just needed some exercise. This is the sort of thing I worry over when cleaning parts. Some things I think are safe to flush with water may not be. I always dry them thoroughly and promptly and even shoot a small amount of lube in 'em but...you just never know. The key switch was a bit stiff turning to crank the first several times I did it. Now it moves like butter. Whatever, it works now so I'm happy.
Let the engine run a bit, fiddled with carb adjustments. Brought the warm idle down in RPM and still trying to get the choke valve in the right spot for cold starts.
Checked voltage across the battery terminals and, at idle, I'm seeing 14.1v. That's my solid state "resto-look" voltage regulator doing it's thing.
Checked the tranny fluid and it's on the dipstick but still a bit below range. At least we know it's not over serviced and that that isn't the cause for the leakage. I still need fresh cardboard under the car to determine what its doing now.
Trunk seal.....a brand new, still in the bag, trunk seal was included with my purchase of one 1969 model year Plymouth Barracuda. Heck of a deal, yeah? Damn thing doesn't run the full perimeter of the trunk rim so looks like I'm buying one after all. I've heard steelerubber is the way to go for these. Now can someone just explain to me what side gets glued to where exactly?
Ignition coil tested perfectly within spec. Right at midway of the range for both primary and secondary resistance.
I had some vac hose leftover from work done on my VW so I used it to replace the lines going to the choke pull-off and the distributor. The old hose was just ridiculously brittle and dried out - not reliable - and I know how tiny little vacuum leaks can wreak havoc with a motor.
Ran some tests on the no-crank situation and never did figure out why it wasn't cranking but I will assume it was one of two things: either the shift linkage not being in exactly the right position to close the neutral safety switch or my key switch just needed some exercise. This is the sort of thing I worry over when cleaning parts. Some things I think are safe to flush with water may not be. I always dry them thoroughly and promptly and even shoot a small amount of lube in 'em but...you just never know. The key switch was a bit stiff turning to crank the first several times I did it. Now it moves like butter. Whatever, it works now so I'm happy.
Let the engine run a bit, fiddled with carb adjustments. Brought the warm idle down in RPM and still trying to get the choke valve in the right spot for cold starts.
Checked voltage across the battery terminals and, at idle, I'm seeing 14.1v. That's my solid state "resto-look" voltage regulator doing it's thing.
Checked the tranny fluid and it's on the dipstick but still a bit below range. At least we know it's not over serviced and that that isn't the cause for the leakage. I still need fresh cardboard under the car to determine what its doing now.
Trunk seal.....a brand new, still in the bag, trunk seal was included with my purchase of one 1969 model year Plymouth Barracuda. Heck of a deal, yeah? Damn thing doesn't run the full perimeter of the trunk rim so looks like I'm buying one after all. I've heard steelerubber is the way to go for these. Now can someone just explain to me what side gets glued to where exactly?
Been thinking on my cold start problem.
Basically, the choke valve is pushed too far closed by the thermostat. Should be a simple matter of bending the choke control rod, right? But why would I need to do that when it worked okay before? Using my own photos (once again) I believe I've happened upon the crux.
Reference the photo below, taken before I dissected the vehicle...
....and notice the thick carburetor base gasket. Going back a few pages, I stated that I was going to "go with the thin gasket" to which sireland67 replied that he thought the thicker one was the correct one to use (you get several in a gasket kit). I believe he was right. Switching the base gasket to a thinner one alters the effective reach of the choke control rod, closing it even further when cold. Ah ha!!
Basically, the choke valve is pushed too far closed by the thermostat. Should be a simple matter of bending the choke control rod, right? But why would I need to do that when it worked okay before? Using my own photos (once again) I believe I've happened upon the crux.
Reference the photo below, taken before I dissected the vehicle...
....and notice the thick carburetor base gasket. Going back a few pages, I stated that I was going to "go with the thin gasket" to which sireland67 replied that he thought the thicker one was the correct one to use (you get several in a gasket kit). I believe he was right. Switching the base gasket to a thinner one alters the effective reach of the choke control rod, closing it even further when cold. Ah ha!!
Parts on order for my week off (starts tomorrow).
New trunk seal from DMT. DMT seems to know what they're doing.
Full kit of body plugs. Time to gather and toss the old dried-out shrunken ones and cork up the cabin.
I found my thicker carb gasket and will get that swapped in pronto. Should help out with my choke woes.
Plans are to roll...no, wait...drive her into the driveway and spend some time cleaning out the windshield channel and the trunk lip. Then, I'll install the trunk seal and pop that windshield back into place FINALLY!
Afterwards, a very brief excursion out into the neighborhood may just be in order.
New trunk seal from DMT. DMT seems to know what they're doing.
Full kit of body plugs. Time to gather and toss the old dried-out shrunken ones and cork up the cabin.
I found my thicker carb gasket and will get that swapped in pronto. Should help out with my choke woes.
Plans are to roll...no, wait...drive her into the driveway and spend some time cleaning out the windshield channel and the trunk lip. Then, I'll install the trunk seal and pop that windshield back into place FINALLY!
Afterwards, a very brief excursion out into the neighborhood may just be in order.
Great Work!! Progress!!
Haven't replaced a trunk seal so I can't give any suggestions on which side is which. Someone here will know.
Haven't replaced a trunk seal so I can't give any suggestions on which side is which. Someone here will know.
-
