Bostonian 71 demon

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ValiantS said:
The car is looking really good. I thought I read somewhere that you were 'only' doing an 8.50 cert?... might want to rethink that. MIGHT speaking from experience. It's a choice to run faster, one that I never thought I'd make. Albeit you are probably going to run at high elevation.
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The reason im sticking with an 8.50 cert is authenticity of the chassis. Besides I have a front engine dragster project 182" wheel base car with the SBC out of my c10 (900hp flywheel with a F1A94 the trucks getting a BBC 498 with a cross ram) that car I will be running a 6/71 on with injection and 20-30% nitro that will run lower et's then the Demon. I know the Demon will be capable of faster ET's but I will try not to kill the motor on every pass and run in the 8.60-8.90 range primarily. Plus I plan to travel quite a bit so altitude changes will just be a part of it.
 
last night started on the pan spot weld holes and figured out removing these gravel supports in favor of tubing (similar to this car)

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So right now im torn as I plan to race the car heavily while trying to maintain its vintage ascetic I im debating compiling the parts to make a vintage dry sump system for the car. The first systems showed up around Nov to Dec of 71 from what I can tell (landys car) but by march to may of 72 became more widely ran within the ranks. Currently I have a full vintage Sox and Martin oiling system to run with a magnesium oil pump. But given what im trying to do im torn on weather to get away from wet and go dry a couple of friends have offered up their magnesium nascar dry sump stuff to run im just torn. Plus a buddy just hooked me up with this old tank.

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B.R.E.Demon said:
So right now im torn as I plan to race the car heavily while trying to maintain its vintage ascetic I im debating compiling the parts to make a vintage dry sump system for the car. The first systems showed up around Nov to Dec of 71 from what I can tell (landys car) but by march to may of 72 became more widely ran within the ranks. Currently I have a full vintage Sox and Martin oiling system to run with a magnesium oil pump. But given what im trying to do im torn on weather to get away from wet and go dry a couple of friends have offered up their magnesium nascar dry sump stuff to run im just torn. Plus a buddy just hooked me up with this old tank.

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Nice to have friends with that old cool **** laying around.
 
So I had the last 5 days off with the holidays which allowed for me to get a ton done including the floors, tubular front rocker supports, drilled the underside of the drip rail and inner roof supports also. Then primed the seams and spots for sealer and once dried got that applied now just letting it cure.... gonna add a couple bars to the cage before the chassis welder comes to make a house call an knock out the main hoop forward bars. Then on to the trunk floor!

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Last few days have been extremely busy and productive. First got the dry sump tank and pan in waiting on a finalized price on a pump. Spent a bit of time on rocker finally and got that to an acceptable point. The Dana 60 from strange came in and I can't say how happy I am with it such a great piece. A buddy hooked me up with a pair or 66-69 original valve covers despite having my aluminum ones I plan to punch 8 more holes in these to make 16 plug and get them re chromed when done, I may do the aluminums too that will have to see on... but a lot of parts are in transit the trunk floor is the next step now.

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more pics. plus a 1967 Narragansett beer "Hi-neighbor" sticker for the back of the scoop this means so much because this is my papa’s beer of choice in the day so between that and the vintage can for overflow I’ve got an ode to him

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B.R.E.Demon said:
Last few days have been extremely busy and productive. First got the dry sump tank and pan in waiting on a finalized price on a pump. Spent a bit of time on rocker finally and got that to an acceptable point. The Dana 60 from strange came in and I can't say how happy I am with it such a great piece. A buddy hooked me up with a pair or 66-69 original valve covers despite having my aluminum ones I plan to punch 8 more holes in these to make 16 plug and get them re chromed when done, I may do the aluminums too that will have to see on... but a lot of parts are in transit the trunk floor is the next step now.

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Right on, mother nature put some holes on your rocker panel, less work for you lol
 
I successfully met my goal of completing the front half of the car before the new year. Now, it's time to focus on the back portion. I started by chiseling out all the old sealer, removing the old latch brace, smoothing the lock opening, and clearing out the mess of the filler panel from the gas tank. I've also devised a plan to install a brace bar to replace the lower section of the rear valance, which will also support the wheelie bars. The to-do list for the new year is ready and in motion!

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The first day of the year in the shop didn’t disappoint, despite the cold. I removed most of the old floor (the outer edges will be addressed once the quarters are off) and fabricated a new rear crossmember, planning to replace the lower valance section. I also spent some time sanding the firewall, finishing it up completely. There's still a lot to tackle, but I made significant progress today!

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B.R.E.Demon said:
The first day of the year in the shop didn’t disappoint, despite the cold. I removed most of the old floor (the outer edges will be addressed once the quarters are off) and fabricated a new rear crossmember, planning to replace the lower valance section. I also spent some time sanding the firewall, finishing it up completely. There's still a lot to tackle, but I made significant progress today!

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You gonna mini-tub while you got the trunk blown apart? Or maybe class rules don't allow it?
 
dusterbing the peace said:
You gonna mini-tub while you got the trunk blown apart? Or maybe class rules don't allow it?
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So, My plan is to do the rear half of the cage once the floor section is installed as I going to narrow the rear frame rails and install 38" tubs up to the narrowed frame rail. I have to get the support to the rear of the car prior to that. That way the rear of the car is structural prior to doing the quarter panels.
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B.R.E.Demon said:
So, My plan is to do the rear half of the cage once the floor section is installed as I going to narrow the rear frame rails and install 38" tubs up to the narrowed frame rail. I have to get the support to the rear of the car prior to that. That way the rear of the car is structural prior to doing the quarter panels. View attachment 1716346968
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Quick question about the k-menber you had with the rack in it. Did you ever drive the car like that & do you have any more pictures of it ?
I would love to duplicate that myself.
 
B.R.E.Demon said:
So, My plan is to do the rear half of the cage once the floor section is installed as I going to narrow the rear frame rails and install 38" tubs up to the narrowed frame rail. I have to get the support to the rear of the car prior to that. That way the rear of the car is structural prior to doing the quarter panels. View attachment 1716346968
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Are you going to make a cross member to tie your frame rails into ?
This will be interesting to see how you do this, if you plan on leaving the rest of the sheet metal alone.
I sectioned my entire pan after removing the spare tire well & the cut the ends of the rails away from the body, slid it together, rewelded the pan and then welded it back into a cross member I built with a drive line safety loop I added afterwards.
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MOPARMAGA said:
Are you going to make a cross member to tie your frame rails into ?
This will be interesting to see how you do this, if you plan on leaving the rest of the sheet metal alone.
I sectioned my entire pan after removing the spare tire well & the cut the ends of the rails away from the body, slid it together, rewelded the pan and then welded it back into a cross member I built with a drive line safety loop I added afterwards.View attachment 1716346970View attachment 1716346975
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Since I already have the ladder bar mount in place at the front, I decided against relocating the rails. Instead, I’ll narrow the rails to 1" wide at the wheel wells and move the spring box flush with the rails, bringing the sliders inboard. For the fuel system, I plan to section a 64-66 Mustang gas tank, removing 4 inches from the middle lengthwise, and install it in the location of the spare tire well.

Additionally, I’ll install two 1 5/8" chromoly tubes. One will run across the rear, allowing me to cut out the valance area between the rails. This tube will double as a mount for the vertical wheelie bars and tie into the slider mounts. The second tube will be positioned near where the rear shock mounts were, as I plan to remove that panel to create space. The shock mounts will be tied to the rear down bars, with holes cut in the floor for them to pass through and tie in securely.

Off the down bars, there will be two supports tied to plates positioned directly above the highest point of the rear frame rails, finalizing at the down bar plates above the leaf spring slider mounts. The down bars will also feature a crossbar for mounting ballast, which will be positioned directly over the gas tank. Lastly, I plan to install X-braces in the location of the original rear down bars to further reinforce the setup.
 
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B.R.E.Demon said:
being I already have the ladder bar mount in the front I didn't want to relocate the rails instead. Im going to narrow the rail to 1" wide at the wheel well. then move the spring box flush to the rail and move the sliders in board o plant to section a 64-66 mustang gas tank and take 4 in out of the middle long ways to then install in the location the spare tire well was. I further more will be installing 2 1" 5/8 pieces of chromoly tubing one at the rear allowing me to cut out the valance area between the rails. This will double as a mount for my vertical wheelie bars and be tided into the slider mounts also. the second tube will be approximately where the rear shock mounts were as I plan to remove that panel for space the shock mounts will be tied to the rear down bars as I plan to cut 2 holes in the flor to allow for them to come through and tie in. There will off the down bars be two supports tied in to plates directly above the highest point of the rear frame rail finalizing to at the down bar plates above the leaf spring slider mounts. the down bars will have a bar tying them together that will have mounts for ballast that will be directly over the gas tank. I also plan to run an x braces where the original rear down bars were.
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Great plan.
 
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