64plymouth
Well-Known Member
WOW!!!
I was figuring that. It's just a clean slate to start with.I got some unexpected news from NHRA tech today: for my build, they want a 25.5 spec cage in the car, which means the whole floor has to go and I’ll need to add a lot more tubing. On the plus side, I found out it qualifies for SS/AM!
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I'm dialing the chassis back to an 8.50 setup or slower, which will be more than enough for the car. About 50% of the current cage will be retained since it already has an 8.50 certification. I'm reworking some of the bars for a better fit, mainly the A-pillar bars, and adding a dash bar. The door bars will need to be redone. Additionally, the entire back half is being reworked. I plan to run two 7-foot straights to the top of the leaf spring perches, with supports and through-floor shock mounts.I was figuring that. It's just a clean slate to start with.
I, the dummy I am installed quite a bit of my cage and then decided to take my floor out.
That's not or was not my best thinking lol.
Trying to remove all that stuff, get the rockers stripped was a pain since I had to be very careful of the bars I had already installed.
But after that everything was easier with no floors and no roof on the car was also very helpful
That's a great idea. I did something like this and it was a very difficult weld. In the upper right corner tying spring perch to main hoop.I'm dialing the chassis back to an 8.50 setup or slower, which will be more than enough for the car. About 50% of the current cage will be retained since it already has an 8.50 certification. I'm reworking some of the bars for a better fit, mainly the A-pillar bars, and adding a dash bar. The door bars will need to be redone. Additionally, the entire back half is being reworked. I plan to run two 7-foot straights to the top of the leaf spring perches, with supports and through-floor shock mounts.
Extremely nice work I would agree though in this case simple is best for sureThat's a great idea. I did something like this and it was a very difficult weld. In the upper right corner tying spring perch to main hoop.View attachment 1716319303
Thanks.Extremely nice work I would agree though in this case simple is best for sure
After Jaxson checked in, I dove into working on the car. First, I knocked out the mid-plate frame mounts, then moved on to tackling the z-bar frame mount and got it welded in place. After that, I worked on the z-bar itself, which required extensive modifications. I finally got the pedal box reinstalled, so I could begin mocking up the linkage. The firewall will need a bit of adjusting for everything to operate smoothly, but I had to wrap it up for the night. On a side note, I’m pretty excited to get my hands on some Narragansett from back home – perfect for a victory beer!
Plus got the tubular core support back from the fab shop and the final stickers came from my buddy today
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Exactly, the thought on the removable trans tunnel I'm doing. Bought a couple universal zeus rails to do the out line of the opening with for service ability.If you are going to work on the clutch I would go out of my way to make the gearbox come out from the top.
It’s quicker and easier to pull it up into the car than down on the floor.
Also, depending on the clutch you use you can stay in the car and set the ring height and other clutch stuff.
Easy is gooder.If you are going to work on the clutch I would go out of my way to make the gearbox come out from the top.
It’s quicker and easier to pull it up into the car than down on the floor.
Also, depending on the clutch you use you can stay in the car and set the ring height and other clutch stuff.
Oh I'm Mcjealous , id love to have a Daren Morgan worked set of heads.Pops got my heads back from BES Racing and Darren Morgan, and I’m really happy with how they turned out! They flowed 470 CFM at .700 and 350 CFM at .700. These are going to be perfect for running a 16-plug Hemi!
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I'm sure you're probably aware of this but be cautious when purchasing your new tubing just make sure the mill thickness tolerance is thick enough everywhere.I'm dialing the chassis back to an 8.50 setup or slower, which will be more than enough for the car. About 50% of the current cage will be retained since it already has an 8.50 certification. I'm reworking some of the bars for a better fit, mainly the A-pillar bars, and adding a dash bar. The door bars will need to be redone. Additionally, the entire back half is being reworked. I plan to run two 7-foot straights to the top of the leaf spring perches, with supports and through-floor shock mounts.
I was lucky with all my tubing, but some had a different finish than others. I got mine from a local steel supply house. If doing again, I would likely buy from these guys. I have gotten special tubing from them. They supply most of NASCAR.I'm sure you're probably aware of this but be cautious when purchasing your new tubing just make sure the mill thickness tolerance is thick enough everywhere.
I put in my rocker bars but didn't measure, I assumed they were thick enough. The second bar I added I measured and found out it was under spec, so just to be safe for inspection I added the 2 by 2 square tubing .060 thick just underneath those bars. The nhra inspector was happy.
Thanks ive been getting mine from S&W they've been real good at staying on top of itI was lucky with all my tubing, but some had a different finish than others. I got mine from a local steel supply house. If doing again, I would likely buy from these guys. I have gotten special tubing from them. They supply most of NASCAR.
Welcome to the store
Looking really good dudeLast night, I tackled a few small tasks. I started with the master reservoir, adding mounting tabs and a clearance hole in the cowl. Then, I moved on to modifying the new QA1 upper control arms. I also picked up some chromoly for the rear cage from a local steel supplier—turns out it's only about a mile and a half from my house!
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That cowl, even thought it'll be hidden, is a freaking work of art in my opinion.Last night, I tackled a few small tasks. I started with the master reservoir, adding mounting tabs and a clearance hole in the cowl. Then, I moved on to modifying the new QA1 upper control arms. I also picked up some chromoly for the rear cage from a local steel supplier—turns out it's only about a mile and a half from my house!
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My gosh man, you are doing a great job AND I am so glad that where I plan to be racing, weight is your friend not enemy.That cowl, even thought it'll be hidden, is a freaking work of art in my opinion.
So tonight, I was a bad and didn’t do anything for the car. Instead, I drove to Denver in the middle of a pretty hefty winter storm. What should’ve been a two-hour round trip ended up taking four, all to pick up an early Christmas gift from my family: a vintage Sun 1120, still in working condition (and it even lights up). I've wanted one of these ever since I first got into cars and saw an old-timer back home using one. He was kind enough to teach me how to operate it. The guy I bought it from even threw in enough extra heads to make two more machines, some NOS parts, and all the original paperwork from 1972, showing it was sold brand new to the Colorado Highway Patrol in Pueblo. We'll have to rearrange the shop when the storm lets up this weekend to fit it in, but I’m beyond happy it’s finally mine.
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Thanks man I got a bunch of paper wort to sift through so ill see what I got I got a fresh light on order as mines cord is damaged but for $300 dollars for the machine and all the parts im stokedVERY COOL!!! Same machine I have. If you didn't get a copy of the owners manual let me know. I have one and I can make a copy and mail it to you. Or scan it and send it in an email.
I use mine quite a bit. What's amazing is how well the dial back timing light works on it.
I think it was worth the snowy trip.