Bostonian 71 demon

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After Jaxson checked in, I dove into working on the car. First, I knocked out the mid-plate frame mounts, then moved on to tackling the z-bar frame mount and got it welded in place. After that, I worked on the z-bar itself, which required extensive modifications. I finally got the pedal box reinstalled, so I could begin mocking up the linkage. The firewall will need a bit of adjusting for everything to operate smoothly, but I had to wrap it up for the night. On a side note, I’m pretty excited to get my hands on some Narragansett from back home – perfect for a victory beer!

Plus got the tubular core support back from the fab shop and the final stickers came from my buddy today

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B.R.E.Demon said:
I got some unexpected news from NHRA tech today: for my build, they want a 25.5 spec cage in the car, which means the whole floor has to go and I’ll need to add a lot more tubing. On the plus side, I found out it qualifies for SS/AM!

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I was figuring that. It's just a clean slate to start with.
I, the dummy I am installed quite a bit of my cage and then decided to take my floor out.
That's not or was not my best thinking lol.
Trying to remove all that stuff, get the rockers stripped was a pain since I had to be very careful of the bars I had already installed.
But after that everything was easier with no floors and no roof on the car was also very helpful
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I was figuring that. It's just a clean slate to start with.
I, the dummy I am installed quite a bit of my cage and then decided to take my floor out.
That's not or was not my best thinking lol.
Trying to remove all that stuff, get the rockers stripped was a pain since I had to be very careful of the bars I had already installed.
But after that everything was easier with no floors and no roof on the car was also very helpful
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I'm dialing the chassis back to an 8.50 setup or slower, which will be more than enough for the car. About 50% of the current cage will be retained since it already has an 8.50 certification. I'm reworking some of the bars for a better fit, mainly the A-pillar bars, and adding a dash bar. The door bars will need to be redone. Additionally, the entire back half is being reworked. I plan to run two 7-foot straights to the top of the leaf spring perches, with supports and through-floor shock mounts.
 
B.R.E.Demon said:
I'm dialing the chassis back to an 8.50 setup or slower, which will be more than enough for the car. About 50% of the current cage will be retained since it already has an 8.50 certification. I'm reworking some of the bars for a better fit, mainly the A-pillar bars, and adding a dash bar. The door bars will need to be redone. Additionally, the entire back half is being reworked. I plan to run two 7-foot straights to the top of the leaf spring perches, with supports and through-floor shock mounts.
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That's a great idea. I did something like this and it was a very difficult weld. In the upper right corner tying spring perch to main hoop.
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B.R.E.Demon said:
After Jaxson checked in, I dove into working on the car. First, I knocked out the mid-plate frame mounts, then moved on to tackling the z-bar frame mount and got it welded in place. After that, I worked on the z-bar itself, which required extensive modifications. I finally got the pedal box reinstalled, so I could begin mocking up the linkage. The firewall will need a bit of adjusting for everything to operate smoothly, but I had to wrap it up for the night. On a side note, I’m pretty excited to get my hands on some Narragansett from back home – perfect for a victory beer!

Plus got the tubular core support back from the fab shop and the final stickers came from my buddy today

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If you are going to work on the clutch I would go out of my way to make the gearbox come out from the top.

It’s quicker and easier to pull it up into the car than down on the floor.

Also, depending on the clutch you use you can stay in the car and set the ring height and other clutch stuff.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
If you are going to work on the clutch I would go out of my way to make the gearbox come out from the top.

It’s quicker and easier to pull it up into the car than down on the floor.

Also, depending on the clutch you use you can stay in the car and set the ring height and other clutch stuff.
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Exactly, the thought on the removable trans tunnel I'm doing. Bought a couple universal zeus rails to do the out line of the opening with for service ability.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
If you are going to work on the clutch I would go out of my way to make the gearbox come out from the top.

It’s quicker and easier to pull it up into the car than down on the floor.

Also, depending on the clutch you use you can stay in the car and set the ring height and other clutch stuff.
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Easy is gooder.
 
The new full quarter panels arrived tonight, and they're perfect! I can't wait to reach that stage of the project. I called it an early night for the first time this week but managed to start assembling the rotisserie to prep the car for mounting and blasting."

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Pops got my heads back from BES Racing and Darren Morgan, and I’m really happy with how they turned out! They flowed 470 CFM at .700 and 350 CFM at .700. These are going to be perfect for running a 16-plug Hemi!

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Now the excitement of the heads are over back to the dirty work on the car and I ended up taking the k member back out, putting it back in a jig and notching the bars and redoing the mounts for the rack so I can get it about 2 inches lower than it was sitting giving me more enough clearance for the front of the motor I ran out of Welding gas, but I need to go get a little more to add one more support bar on the rackmount

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B.R.E.Demon said:
I'm dialing the chassis back to an 8.50 setup or slower, which will be more than enough for the car. About 50% of the current cage will be retained since it already has an 8.50 certification. I'm reworking some of the bars for a better fit, mainly the A-pillar bars, and adding a dash bar. The door bars will need to be redone. Additionally, the entire back half is being reworked. I plan to run two 7-foot straights to the top of the leaf spring perches, with supports and through-floor shock mounts.
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I'm sure you're probably aware of this but be cautious when purchasing your new tubing just make sure the mill thickness tolerance is thick enough everywhere.
I put in my rocker bars but didn't measure, I assumed they were thick enough. The second bar I added I measured and found out it was under spec, so just to be safe for inspection I added the 2 by 2 square tubing .060 thick just underneath those bars. The nhra inspector was happy.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I'm sure you're probably aware of this but be cautious when purchasing your new tubing just make sure the mill thickness tolerance is thick enough everywhere.
I put in my rocker bars but didn't measure, I assumed they were thick enough. The second bar I added I measured and found out it was under spec, so just to be safe for inspection I added the 2 by 2 square tubing .060 thick just underneath those bars. The nhra inspector was happy.
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I was lucky with all my tubing, but some had a different finish than others. I got mine from a local steel supply house. If doing again, I would likely buy from these guys. I have gotten special tubing from them. They supply most of NASCAR.

Welcome to the store
 
71GSSDemon said:
I was lucky with all my tubing, but some had a different finish than others. I got mine from a local steel supply house. If doing again, I would likely buy from these guys. I have gotten special tubing from them. They supply most of NASCAR.

Welcome to the store
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Thanks ive been getting mine from S&W they've been real good at staying on top of it
 
Took a week off to let my latest tattoo heal and go out to KC to a buddies wedding, but now I’m back in the shop and diving into the car again. The new control arms and z bar arrived, so I got to work. I had to modify the ball joint socket to fit the QA1s, and I’ve also updated my to-do list. Plus picked up an off topic 454 for my C10 no more supercharged 383

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