macman340
Well-Known Member
After pulling the transmission out, the converter now has crankshaft bolt mashed into it! It is an aftermarket converter! Any thoughts on the cause!
Broken Transmission
- Thread starter macman340
- Start date
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HemiSSDart
Dartus Interuptus
What trans, what year, what year torque converter is it supposed to fit?
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
I've had crank bolts leave impressions through paint on the converter but no dents in the converter unless I had a major driveline breakage. Clearance is tight. However, that doesn't look like an OEM crank bolt and they definitely don't come with washers.
VOETOM
Well-Known Member
Some ballooning maybe?
Check the end play on your crank thrust. Probably wiped out the thrust bearing.
Yes, those bolt heads are definitely too thick. I would also be concerned that it had affected the end play of the transmission input and very probably taking out the front pump.
Wrong bolts and they should not have washers.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
I thought that was his transmission drain plug.
Can you confirm what your flex plate to crankshaft bolts look like?
This ^^^^^^^
Nice when a member comes on here and starts a post with half the needed info. We put more work into this than he did.
Good point! No doubt this is part of the reason the transmission had to be removed, but what was the transmission doing (or more likely no longer doing!) that necessitated it's removal?
macman340
Well-Known Member
Ok, Ok, sorry everyone, the transmission is a 904 , 1968, the flex plate is a B&M SFI Steel, I just got it out yesterday , the reason for pulling it out was a grinding when put in gear, here is what we found upon 1st inspection the output shaft was sheared off photo 1, this happened while (Ibelieve) while doing a burnout and the tire bit the track! Didn’t mean to cause a fuss, pittsburgracer
That’s ugly
macman340
Well-Known Member
Yea, something violent happened, too say the least! I'll assume when it did this it shoved everything forward , explaining the flex-plate marks!
Like I suggested earlier I would put a dial indicator on your harmonic balancer and check forward and backward motion of your crank shaft. Should probably remove the belts first.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Smell the engine oil, a wiped thrust bearing burns the oil.
macman340
Well-Known Member
That pic is the drain plug, yes
monc440
Active Member
The low one way clutch probably broke if you were still in first when the tires got traction. When the other parts broke it could have pushed the TC into the back of the crank?
If your valve body is a full manual and does not have low band apply the rear one way roller is the only thing holding in low gear. I would suggest getting the VB that has low band apply.
If your valve body is a full manual and does not have low band apply the rear one way roller is the only thing holding in low gear. I would suggest getting the VB that has low band apply.
$$$$
Duster346
Chris Andrews
This car was mistreated in 1st gear causing the sprag to roll. It appears the case is also broken, and if not, it will likely need another case anyway as once that inner sprag race is removed you'll probably find it dug into the back of the case as well. Not to mention what you have going on up front with the crank bolt witness marks on the converter. Probably some ballooning as was mentioned, and probably wiped the thrust bearing in the motor, as was mentioned. This is going to be a costly one as that transmission is a complete goner, (lots of hard part damage I'm also betting) and you'll need to find a useable core--not to mention any engine damage.
Duane
Well-Known Member
There’s a washer or a flange on the bolt in the pic. That’s not the right bolts. Too thick.
bOb shingler
Well-Known Member
never ever ever do a burn out in first gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quite fortunate the doggone thing did not blow up and cause bodily injury. If people realized how fast that assembly is moving when the sprag fails they would never, ever do that. At 5000 rpm with 2.45 first gear the drum could spin to 12250 rpm!
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