Calling all corner carvers!

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AndyF said:
Looks like you're serious. I see that you went with my Viper kit up front. You should be happy with those brakes. Are you getting the Baer two piece rotors to go with the Viper calipers? Which brakes are you going with out back?
The '69 K frame might not have been the best way to go due to the anti-sway bar design. Hard to say, there are pluses and minuses either way. I prefer the '73 and up K frame since it has a better anti-sway bar design but some people don't like the spool mounts. On Tim's Valiant we tried early and later K frames and then eventually fabricated a circle track style anti-sway bar with spline drive on each end. Once you start pushing the car hard the production designs just have too many compromises to work well.
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Yes, I got the Baer 2 piece rotors with Power Stop PST968 track day pads. I went with the Dr.Diff Cobra rear disc conversion.
I beefed up my stock K-member because it’s what I have. I didn’t want to go to the 73 style because I plan to run the QA1 tubular K-member eventually. I ordered the big Hotchkis hollow sway bar that works with my 69’ K-member but it’s been back ordered for the past 4 months. Hopefully it arrives in August.

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Jealous.....
Pretty much the same path I plan to follow but I've got a long way to go. I can get started on the K-member reinforcement though.
Does the Cobra rear kit allow the use of Timken bearings or the Green? I want to use the Timken.
 
black954 said:
...I ordered the big Hotchkis hollow sway bar that works with my 69’ K-member but it’s been back ordered for the past 4 months. Hopefully it arrives in August.
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just finished installing mine last night. pictures don't really convey how large that bar is.
 
black954 said:
So I was able to set my engine in the car and it’s CLOSE. Even with the 3/4” I trimmed off the K-member I’m going to have to trim a little more.
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Looks good, close enough that you'll need to trim some more. If you are pulling the engine from above you'll need even more room so you can rotate the engine up and out of the K. Since the pan is brand new you can also trim it if you want. Knocking the square off those front corners of the pan would add a lot of clearance. If you are going to install the K frame after the engine is hung in place then you can keep the K frame tight to the pan. Do you have a spare engine block for mock up work? It is a lot easier if you have a bare block and a bare transmission case. You can drop a bare block and transmission case in the car for a check fit without busting your back.
 
AndyF said:
We could have made the Milodon pan fit with the spool mount K frame by installing the engine from below. But there was no way to drop the engine in from above with that oil pan. Or we could've dropped the K frame off the car, install the engine from above and then install the K frame. The pan fit the K frame once everything was in place, but there wasn't any room to tilt the engine in and out.
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I installed mine from the top with the Milodon pan. Engine had to be lowered straight down and without the flywheel, but it fits. It didn’t hit the corner of the engine mount until I installed the transmission, when it set down on the transmission mount the corner of the pan hit the lower corner of the engine mount so the lower corner had to be notched. If I did another one I’d just shorten the bottom of the mount and box it. Easy peasy.

Can’t install it from the top with a T56 attached regardless so installing or removing the engine straight up and down without the transmission is no big deal.
 
gzig5 said:
Jealous.....
Pretty much the same path I plan to follow but I've got a long way to go. I can get started on the K-member reinforcement though.
Does the Cobra rear kit allow the use of Timken bearings or the Green? I want to use the Timken.
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I believe it works with both, but I’d check with Dr.Diff to be certain. I went with the green bearings and everything went together really well.
 
AndyF said:
Looks good, close enough that you'll need to trim some more. If you are pulling the engine from above you'll need even more room so you can rotate the engine up and out of the K. Since the pan is brand new you can also trim it if you want. Knocking the square off those front corners of the pan would add a lot of clearance. If you are going to install the K frame after the engine is hung in place then you can keep the K frame tight to the pan. Do you have a spare engine block for mock up work? It is a lot easier if you have a bare block and a bare transmission case. You can drop a bare block and transmission case in the car for a check fit without busting your back.
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I did install the engine through the top without contacting anything. I’m more worried about the engine torquing under hard acceleration. I’m pulling the engine at least one more time so I’ll notch the k-member a bit more where the pan is close.
 
kursplat said:
just finished installing mine last night. pictures don't really convey how large that bar is.
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I can’t wait for mine to show up. Some hate the look of a huge bar like that hanging down, but I like it. Can you post up a pic
 
black954 said:
I can’t wait for mine to show up. Some hate the look of a huge bar like that hanging down, but I like it. Can you post up a pic
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i'll try to get one when i get home tonight. the HOTCHKIS is a sticker, so easy to remove, i think they look fine. except for the extra girth it doesn't hang any lower than the stock one, brackets are about the same. only thing i don't like, the zirk fittings are the lowest point. i might re-drill them at a 45' before i scrape one off
 
been stuck at work and still need to bleed the front brakes, consequently the car is still in the air. but here's a couple quick pics

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quick update on how the Hotchkis bar looks. going to try and set the height and align it later
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