Can it hook?

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I got my spring perches from Calvert Racing (ordered through Mancini Racing since they are closer to me). I bought a set because I needed new perches anyway...but if you don't need new ones you could just box them in with steel plate. This is what I got:


I guess I meant to say Torque boxes where the front of the rear spring mounts. US Cartool makes a torque box kit I was thinking about installing.
 
Well the slower dart I have with the 8 3/4 runs in the 6:50 range now foot break cal tracs and a small shot on the 383. No issues with the 8 3/4 and it leaves with the wheels in the air about a foot... a 6:90 is equal to a 10:90.... My car is all metal except for the bumper hood and some lexan. Just something to think about...
 
Well the slower dart I have with the 8 3/4 runs in the 6:50 range now foot break cal tracs and a small shot on the 383. No issues with the 8 3/4 and it leaves with the wheels in the air about a foot... a 6:90 is equal to a 10:90.... My car is all metal except for the bumper hood and some lexan. Just something to think about...


I was only thinking about a fiberglass hood and front bumper, maybe the back seat to lose some weight. Nothing too radical.
 
I still have the 8.75 in my coronet , they are fairly strong when you back brace and put the mark Williams main caps on the center section , the bad is the pro gear availability . I went a best of 9.75 @ 138 at 3800 with the 8.75 and the housing was slowly getting tweaked after time . I would weld on billet housing ends after the back brace is installed and be good to go . If you are going to buy a new rear differential then the ford 9" is the only one I would use in a race car .
 
I went and weighed the Dart today. It was 3460 full of gas with me in it. I think you save about 100lbs. with an automatic over a 4spd set up. I'm also thinking about going to a fiberglass hood to help with the weight. I will be adding a roll bar so my weight probably won't change much when all the changes are done.
 
I went and weighed the Dart today. It was 3460 full of gas with me in it. I think you save about 100lbs. with an automatic over a 4spd set up. I'm also thinking about going to a fiberglass hood to help with the weight. I will be adding a roll bar so my weight probably won't change much when all the changes are done.

When I ran 500HP in my old SB I had my 60ft's at 1.49 6.95 in the 1/8th and 10.90's at 123mph at 3485lbs.

Then build at 649HP W5 SB my 60ft's were best 1.32 and 6.16 in the 1/8th and a best of 9.77 at 137 mph.

All was done with S/S springs MP shocks for the rear and NO pinion snubber an CE 3 way front shocks.
 

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What are your 60' times now. 500hp should be closer to 125mph in the quarter. You either had a very friendly dyno or you have some serious issues somewhere.

But at what weight are you figuring it?


If the weight is unknown, on a A body, i usually plug in 3200 lbs. He's heavier so the "close to 125" was definitely a little optimistic. You've got real world numbers, that's better then a calc anyday.

P.S. Anytime you want to post pics of the Duster, i'm all eyes...:D.
 
But at what weight are you figuring it?


If the weight is unknown, on a A body, i usually plug in 3200 lbs. He's heavier so the "close to 125" was definitely a little optimistic. You've got real world numbers, that's better then a calc anyday.

P.S. Anytime you want to post pics of the Duster, i'm all eyes...:D.

OK just wondering at what weight!!
Here' the Duster.
 

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I run SS springs with clamps, i would guess my car is around 600 hp. I have gone a best 1.39 60ft and the last time i took it out, the car ran between 1.41 and 1.44 all weekend.
Mick
 
My Dart has a best 60' of 1.54 but usually 1.56-1.57 .Im running stock 48 yearold 6 cylinder springs ,stock wore out shocks ,and old Fox Craft slapper bars that i set preloaded .I am running an 8 inch M/T slick on 7 inch steel wheels .I have about 475 hp and run low 11's in the 1/4 and 7.1's in the 1/8 .My stepdads off topic car $3900 (all motor small block )beater runs 6.60's at 103 mph and mid 1.4 60 foots in the 1/8 on the same 8 inch slicks im running BTW with no traction devices or trick springs.The little tires will hold more than people think .I can post a vid of it ,but i would proly get in trouble ,as its not mopar..
 
My 62 Valiant slant six car is running orig 50 year old flat springs,I added a half leaf upside down from the axel forward,no clamps or snubber.Car is light and with a 90 shot my best is a 1.45 60 ft.10.57 @128mph,,,STOCK 50 year old springs.Friend thinks I should go Cal Tracs but I just dont see how they could really help my ets.I run 11.40s all motor,1.50s 60 fts and have about 275 rwhp.I think if I had higher hp and weighed more my set up wouldnt work like it does,,,then again???Guzzi Mark
 
Making progress! I have the 4spd set up out and has been sold. Time to get the trans core to Lofgren's for a race build and a stall convertor!
 
That's a good looking Dart you have. You are doing it right. Take your time and talk to the guys at the track.

Your welcome. Check out Crackedbacks link. Those are made by a member on the board. Direct bolt in with no mods necessary. That's the really nice thing about them.

Glad you mentioned this fishy68, sounds like something we could all look into. Thanks for the details.
Did the hymed struts change the way your car rides or steering ? Would you have to change your shocks for a better ride or anything else?
I'm thinking of a street car, at the track or on the street.
 
Glad you mentioned this fishy68, sounds like something we could all look into. Thanks for the details.
Did the hymed struts change the way your car rides or steering ? Would you have to change your shocks for a better ride or anything else?
I'm thinking of a street car, at the track or on the street.

I didn't notice any diff. in how it rides. I believe the steering is somewhat improved, especially during hard braking. I did change to 3 way adjustable shocks at the same time but that wasn't out of necessity. I got a deal on them and thought they'd be nice cause I can dial them in at 50/50 on the spreet and when I go to the track change them to 90/10, 70/30 for drag racing.
 
Thanks Fishy68 !
Nice of you to comment. I obviously don't know much about front ends, so this helps me. Chromoly adjustable struts, seem to be the answer for me.
 
Well I have an A999 built for racing by Chuck Lofgren. It has the low 1st gear (2.74) a Griner reverse pattern valve body. I have a loose Ultimate 10" convertor, approximately 4200 stall. I have new 27 x 10.50 15 M/T ET Street tires on 15 x 8 steel wheels with 4" back space. Biggest I figured would fit. They seem to fit about perfect, I don't think they will rub! I'm just waiting for my Turbo Action shifter to get here, it's on back order, Uuhhgg!! Supposed to be here Friday. I'm hoping to get to Top End dragways this weekend and see what happens. I'm going to guess 11.70's @ 114 if it hooks up. We'll see what happens!
 
Good thread here everyone, lots of info. 340, did you say that you have not done anything to the wheel wells and you can stuff the 27 x 10.50's in there? I have a 71 Dart 408, but have much to do before hitting the track.

Thanks........!
 
Yes, 27 x 10.50 15 on a 15 x 8 steel wheel with 4" back space. I have about 3/4" clearance to the spring and 5/8" clearance to the fender. I do have the fender lip trimmed. I measured several times before I ordered them.
 
Good luck with your first outing and new improvements.I think your gonna be surprised at how well the 904(auto)will help your times.Your gonna have to learn your sweet spot at launch now.This past weekend I was footbraking at 2200rpm(4500 8 inch verter)I ran 4 consecutive passes at 10.72@122mph,6.71@101 in the 1/8,60fts 1.44-45.Always start your burnout in 2nd gear,going to 3rd.You,ll be surprised at how fast the strokers rev out.Good luck and play safe.:D
 
So much for first outing! Shifter is still on back order and won't be here until 1st week of june. My next 2 weekends are busy with graduation parties so I guess it dosen't really matter anyway. I'll give 'er heck in a few weeks!
 
Well, I finally made it to the track! My work schedule has not been very nice for a long time! Had a good day racing, got 9 runs in. The car is hooking up! Took some adjusting on the rear shocks and some playing with the tire pressure. The car was in complete street trim. Full TTI 3" exhaust with x pipe and tail pipes, mechanical flex fan and water pump. Went [email protected], 60 ft. was 1.638. I improved my ET by a half second, pretty happy about that! We, the friend that went with me, think the mph was down 1 mph because of the air. It was about 80 today and previous best mph was done at night at about 65 degrees. I'm pretty happy so far, I have some work to do to get to my goal of 10's.

I'm thinking about a gear change. I have 3.91's and I'm thinking of going to 3.55's. I'm going through the lights at about 6300 or 6400. My peak hp is at 5700. I think with the short 27" tires and 2.74 1st gear it could handle the 3.55's. I know that's going the wrong way for gearing for Drag racing, but it seems right considering the rpm's going through the lights. If you figure out the starting ratio, (rear-end ratio times trans 1st gear ratio=starting-line ratio) the car is over geared, dropping to 3.55's gets it to where it should be.

Any one with experience tell me what you think?
 
You won't get there with that MPH.

6400, 27" and 3.91's = ~15.5% converter slip. That's your biggest issue. Slip number is REALLY bad if the tach is correct. The converter is not a good match.

Post all incrementals from your best run. Someone will find something
 
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