Can it hook?

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After taking into consideration a lot of advice on here. I talked to Dr.Diff and Moser this week about 8 3/4's and Dana 60's. The safe bet is to just go to the Dana 60 and get it over with.

Now with that being said, it is going to be cheaper in the long run to just do everything at once. What I mean by that is I'm going to go ahead and minitub the car and move the springs inboard. Then I can get a Dana 60 narrowed to the right width and be able to get some decent size rubber under it! I will also be putting in an 8 point rollbar.
 
340 said:
After taking into consideration a lot of advice on here. I talked to Dr.Diff and Moser this week about 8 3/4's and Dana 60's. The safe bet is to just go to the Dana 60 and get it over with.

Now with that being said, it is going to be cheaper in the long run to just do everything at once. What I mean by that is I'm going to go ahead and minitub the car and move the springs inboard. Then I can get a Dana 60 narrowed to the right width and be able to get some decent size rubber under it! I will also be putting in an 8 point rollbar.
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I agree if you're going to keep the car and continue to upgrade the power then going big, if it's within your budget, is probably the right way to go. But if it's just to get a larger tire, then you could just mini tub and move the springs to get there. That Dana will set you back a pretty good chunk of coin.
 
I really want to get in to the 10's. I was told the power limit for an 8 3/4 is about 600hp. That's probably where I'll end up for power if not a little more to get it as fast as I'm looking for. I've already rebuilt the center section and redid the brakes. I'm hoping I can sell the 8 3/4 and put that towards the Dana instead of spending more on a rear that will be at it's limit for reliability. Someone on here had a high 10 sec. car that twisted up the housing. I think he went to a Moser housing.
 
340 said:
I really want to get in to the 10's. I was told the power limit for an 8 3/4 is about 600hp. That's probably where I'll end up for power if not a little more to get it as fast as I'm looking for. I've already rebuilt the center section and redid the brakes. I'm hoping I can sell the 8 3/4 and put that towards the Dana instead of spending more on a rear that will be at it's limit for reliability. Someone on here had a high 10 sec. car that twisted up the housing. I think he went to a Moser housing.
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Yea, that was "Flyfish". Congrats on going for the 10's and i would agree that where your going you should upgrade. Who doesn't love a Dana under there Mopar....:D. It's one of the first things i look for when i'm checking out a car.....lol.
 
I run a dana in fast dart because it came in it...The slower dart which went 6.52 last night has an 8 3/4 in it. No plans on changing that rearend out. Welding the tubes and adding a brace will do it justice along with good axles and a good center section. Believe it or not you can pick up et with the lighter 8 3/4 over the dana...
 
340 said:
After taking into consideration a lot of advice on here. I talked to Dr.Diff and Moser this week about 8 3/4's and Dana 60's. The safe bet is to just go to the Dana 60 and get it over with.

Now with that being said, it is going to be cheaper in the long run to just do everything at once. What I mean by that is I'm going to go ahead and minitub the car and move the springs inboard. Then I can get a Dana 60 narrowed to the right width and be able to get some decent size rubber under it! I will also be putting in an 8 point rollbar.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is the way to do it. Buy the good stuff once and be done with it.

On the CalTrac issue, I went from SS springs to the whole CalTrac setup on my mid 10 sec Duster. Did it pick up any? No, not really, but what it did do was calm the car down considerably and made it much more consistent. The best thing about the CalTracs are their adjustability.
 
I was paying close attention last weekend to several fast mopars, all were 9, 10 and 11 sec. cars. I did notice the cars with caltracs seemed to have more control at the launch. They didn't do as big as wheelie. A couple cars that had SS springs did pretty high wheel stands and then had to do some steering afterward to get the car back in the groove.

I still am not sure about what to do for the rear end. I rebuilt my center section with good parts. I have new 3.91 Richmond gears, new clutch style sure-grip, solid crush sleeve eliminator and all new bearings. So I'm having a hard time getting myself to just go to the Dana. I already have an almost new set of the big Ford 11" drum brakes I got from a friends street rod project. Maybe I could go with the Moser Fabricated 8 3/4 housing. I start looking at the cost. The Fabricated 8 3/4 is about $1100 out of pocket vs about $2800 for the Dana. I would be able to sell my 8 3/4 to help off set the cost of the Dana, but it would probably still be $1000 more. What is the best way to go??
 
340 said:
I was paying close attention last weekend to several fast mopars, all were 9, 10 and 11 sec. cars. I did notice the cars with caltracs seemed to have more control at the launch. They didn't do as big as wheelie. A couple cars that had SS springs did pretty high wheel stands and then had to do some steering afterward to get the car back in the groove.

I still am not sure about what to do for the rear end. I rebuilt my center section with good parts. I have new 3.91 Richmond gears, new clutch style sure-grip, solid crush sleeve eliminator and all new bearings. So I'm having a hard time getting myself to just go to the Dana. I already have an almost new set of the big Ford 11" drum brakes I got from a friends street rod project. Maybe I could go with the Moser Fabricated 8 3/4 housing. I start looking at the cost. The Fabricated 8 3/4 is about $1100 out of pocket vs about $2800 for the Dana. I would be able to sell my 8 3/4 to help off set the cost of the Dana, but it would probably still be $1000 more. What is the best way to go??
Click to expand...

Why not just back brace the 8 3/4 and weld the tubes? You can do this for $100....

Trick is to do this before it bends the rearend...

http://www.afabmetalworks.net/RearendBraces.html
 
340 said:
I was paying close attention last weekend to several fast mopars, all were 9, 10 and 11 sec. cars. I did notice the cars with caltracs seemed to have more control at the launch. They didn't do as big as wheelie. A couple cars that had SS springs did pretty high wheel stands and then had to do some steering afterward to get the car back in the groove.

I still am not sure about what to do for the rear end. I rebuilt my center section with good parts. I have new 3.91 Richmond gears, new clutch style sure-grip, solid crush sleeve eliminator and all new bearings. So I'm having a hard time getting myself to just go to the Dana. I already have an almost new set of the big Ford 11" drum brakes I got from a friends street rod project. Maybe I could go with the Moser Fabricated 8 3/4 housing. I start looking at the cost. The Fabricated 8 3/4 is about $1100 out of pocket vs about $2800 for the Dana. I would be able to sell my 8 3/4 to help off set the cost of the Dana, but it would probably still be $1000 more. What is the best way to go??
Click to expand...
This is just my opinion...You can,t just put CalTracs in a car and expect better times.LOL.They need adjusting to match with your setup so you don,t do the big wheelies.Sell the 8 3/4 and go Dana 60 if you plan on racing for years to come.JMO.My car 60fts mid 1.4X,s-1.50 everytime.I like adjustability for different tracks,so went with QA-1 12 way adjustable shocks.For my frontend I went with RMS tubular UCA,s and hymed struts(the hymed struts really help with weight transfer)Racing takes trial and error over time.Good luck,you,ll get there with help from the board members...I did.:D
View attachment Summer 2012.JPG
 
pettybludart said:
This is just my opinion...You can,t just put CalTracs in a car and expect better times.LOL.They need adjusting to match with your setup so you don,t do the big wheelies.Sell the 8 3/4 and go Dana 60 if you plan on racing for years to come.JMO.My car 60fts mid 1.4X,s-1.50 everytime.I like adjustability for different tracks,so went with QA-1 12 way adjustable shocks.For my frontend I went with RMS tubular UCA,s and hymed struts(the hymed struts really help with weight transfer)Racing takes trial and error over time.Good luck,you,ll get there with help from the board members...I did.:D
View attachment 1714540270
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I'm sure Caltracs are like anything with racing, they take trial and error to get them to work properly. The hymed struts make that much of a difference? I would not have thought they would do that much over a set of stock ones for a car.

Did you have any clearance issues between the cover on the Dana and your stock gas tank?
 
340 said:
I'm sure Caltracs are like anything with racing, they take trial and error to get them to work properly. The hymed struts make that much of a difference? I would not have thought they would do that much over a set of stock ones for a car.

Did you have any clearance issues between the cover on the Dana and your stock gas tank?
Click to expand...
Yes I did,but a block of wood and pry bar took car of that.LOL


With the hymed struts,you can jack the frontend up and move the wheel/suspension up/down by hand.Try that with stock struts,not gonna happen.
 
Those strut rods also help to stage the car consistently. If you watch a foot brake Mopar with the stock style struts everytime they hit the brakes the wheels move rearward a little. So as you are bumping in you will be inconsistent if you are a little higher in RPM or you hit the brake a little harder than the last time.
 
Oh and I have a lot of money in my 8.75 with the aluminum center carrier, spool, axles, and a pro gear. The ***** is there is only one ratio of pro gear, a 4.86 so I have to make that work. I wish I would have just built a Dana to start with.
 
I was wondering how you were getting an 8 3/4 to stay together running in the 9's!...or does it stay together for very long?? I have noticed the front wheel movement you are talking about. Good information on how to be fast!

Thanks
 
Guitar Jones said:
Those strut rods also help to stage the car consistently. If you watch a foot brake Mopar with the stock style struts everytime they hit the brakes the wheels move rearward a little. So as you are bumping in you will be inconsistent if you are a little higher in RPM or you hit the brake a little harder than the last time.
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With the hymed struts,you can jack the frontend up and move the wheel/suspension up/down by hand.Try that with stock struts,not gonna happen.
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Could you explain this a little more.......

I assume your taking about the bar that travel horizontally. From the lower control arm out to the front, not a spring/shock right.....

And how does this allow up and down movement.

I can under stand the tire moving back, at braking, but that has more to do with the isolator then the bar or this Hyme? bar...Right?

Maybe a picture would clear it up some.
 
Cudafever said:
Could you explain this a little more.......

I assume your taking about the bar that travel horizontally. From the lower control arm out to the front, not a spring/shock right.....

And how does this allow up and down movement.

I can under stand the tire moving back, at braking, but that has more to do with the isolator then the bar or this Hyme? bar...Right?

Maybe a picture would clear it up some.
Click to expand...

Yeah the strut rods are the bars that connect the lower control arm to the front part of the K frame.

The aftermarket ones with Heim joints move much free'er than the stock setup because the stock ones run through bushings and have to compress the bushings to move. With Heim joints the lower control arm is allowed full freedom of movement without any friction. I hope that makes sense. Since there is no bushing to compress the LCA is not allowed any fore/aft movement. I installed a set of CAP bars with Heim joints on my Cuda a few yrs. back and was amazed at how easy the lower control arm moved up and down afterward. With the spindle removed and stock bushings I could just move the LCA from end to end by hand using a good ammount of force (I had poly bushings in it so it was a little stiffer than stock). After installing the bars with Heim joints I could easily move the LCA through it's complete range of travel with 1 finger.
 
boosted said:
Why not just back brace the 8 3/4 and weld the tubes? You can do this for $100....

Trick is to do this before it bends the rearend...
Click to expand...


I have talked to Moser and after looking at the funds in the checkbook. I think I'm going to stick with the 8 3/4 for now. I am going to back brace it and add some material around the spring perches to help it out. I will be putting a set of Moser axles in it. I already have about the best parts I can without going to a spool in the 3rd member. If I would have thought ahead I never would have rebuilt the 8 3/4. Should have sold it and bought a Dana back then, but hindsight is 20/20! Moser said after bracing it the weak point would be the ring and pinion. They didn't really think it would be a problem, so for now I guess I'll run it.

This also means I won't be doing the minitub for now either. I'm going to see what I can do on some 27 x 10.50 15 Quick Time Pro's on a 15 x 8 wheel. I plan to take the money saved on the rear end and buy some hymed stut rods and upper control arms to help weight transfer.
 
fishy68 said:
Yeah the strut rods are the bars that connect the lower control arm to the front part of the K frame.

The aftermarket ones with Heim joints move much free'er than the stock setup because the stock ones run through bushings and have to compress the bushings to move. With Heim joints the lower control arm is allowed full freedom of movement without any friction. I hope that makes sense. Since there is no bushing to compress the LCA is not allowed any fore/aft movement. I installed a set of CAP bars with Heim joints on my Cuda a few yrs. back and was amazed at how easy the lower control arm moved up and down afterward. With the spindle removed and stock bushings I could just move the LCA from end to end by hand using a good ammount of force (I had poly bushings in it so it was a little stiffer than stock). After installing the bars with Heim joints I could easily move the LCA through it's complete range of travel with 1 finger.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
who makes them? were could i find them and do you need to do any other mods to install/us them?
 
340 said:
I have talked to Moser and after looking at the funds in the checkbook. I think I'm going to stick with the 8 3/4 for now. I am going to back brace it and add some material around the spring perches to help it out. I will be putting a set of Moser axles in it. I already have about the best parts I can without going to a spool in the 3rd member. If I would have thought ahead I never would have rebuilt the 8 3/4. Should have sold it and bought a Dana back then, but hindsight is 20/20! Moser said after bracing it the weak point would be the ring and pinion. They didn't really think it would be a problem, so for now I guess I'll run it.

This also means I won't be doing the minitub for now either. I'm going to see what I can do on some 27 x 10.50 15 Quick Time Pro's on a 15 x 8 wheel. I plan to take the money saved on the rear end and buy some hymed stut rods and upper control arms to help weight transfer.
Click to expand...

If you need a back brace for your 8 3/4 shoot me a PM, I still have the one that I ordered for my 8 3/4 before I realized the housing was toast.

Just a couple of tricks to keeping the 8 3/4 alive:
1. No trans brake.
2. Make the car lite.
3. If you use Caltracs, BOX IN YOUR SPRING PERCHES....don't ask me how I know....
 
fishy68 said:
Your welcome. Check out Crackedbacks link. Those are made by a member on the board. Direct bolt in with no mods necessary. That's the really nice thing about them.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys!!!
got a email to him.
 
flyfish said:
If you need a back brace for your 8 3/4 shoot me a PM, I still have the one that I ordered for my 8 3/4 before I realized the housing was toast.

Just a couple of tricks to keeping the 8 3/4 alive:
1. No trans brake.
2. Make the car lite.
3. If you use Caltracs, BOX IN YOUR SPRING PERCHES....don't ask me how I know....
Click to expand...

I wasn't going to run a trans brake, I'm just a foot brake racer. I will be doing a couple things to lighten up the car, not sure what it weighs now so I plan to weigh it before I start. I'm thinking about pulling my TTI exhaust, it is 3" with x pipe and full tail pipes. I think all those bends in the tail pipes might be costing me power.

I was thinking about boxing the spring perches, I thought I saw something about US Cartool makes some, know anything about them? Should a guy just build them himself?

I'll send you PM about that back brace this weekend.

Thanks
 
340 said:
I wasn't going to run a trans brake, I'm just a foot brake racer. I will be doing a couple things to lighten up the car, not sure what it weighs now so I plan to weigh it before I start. I'm thinking about pulling my TTI exhaust, it is 3" with x pipe and full tail pipes. I think all those bends in the tail pipes might be costing me power.

I was thinking about boxing the spring perches, I thought I saw something about US Cartool makes some, know anything about them? Should a guy just build them himself?

I'll send you PM about that back brace this weekend.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I got my spring perches from Calvert Racing (ordered through Mancini Racing since they are closer to me). I bought a set because I needed new perches anyway...but if you don't need new ones you could just box them in with steel plate. This is what I got:
 

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