dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
proper machine work always make a better motor than bolt on parts on a stock non machined motor!!!!
I get PM'd I'm an asshole for not making use of a Holley. I'm an asshole for not using "***" cam.
I'm an asshole for ......
I didn't really mean to put emphasis on the cracked aspect just that they are the only heads I have ATM. Seats and some Fluidweld will take care of the cracks in most cases. J.Rob
LMAO!Rumble I think the problem is your actually just an asshole. Embrace it. I have
IMO Magnum would have better automated machine tolerances, thinner rings = less friction, less wear, moly top ring from factory, fuel injection = less cylinder wash down and cleaner burn with unleaded fuel.maybe someone here can explain this, but back decade ago I rebuilt several later 70's casting 440. upon measure, they had almost no wear in the bore to command an overbore. I am sure the block was just like the earlier casings, so is it the rings??
I have never used a magnum, but I keep reading here as they can have many miles on them, but not enough wear to need an overbore job. of course, other parts needed for carb and mech fuel pump I guess..
I agree with the comment above on the mopar mags, when reading them, ya gotta remember ads pay the bills not subscribers $$$.... I quit reading them 10-12 yrs back, but MA did have some good common lower $ sense rebuild articles.
Ive been around. Just steering clear of pissing matches on here more lately. I don't have the energy for them...lol My new approach is people are either going to listen or not. If it's not in my shop what difference does it make to me?... lolLMAO!
Where have you been?!?!
Haven't seen ya in a while.
proper machine work always make a better motor than bolt on parts on a stock non machined motor!!!!
Everyone take note of what Jesse is doing. He can accomplish anything when it comes to engine machining and assembly.Here's a good shot of the crack as shown by the Magnaflux after the heads spent a few minutes in the roto-blast. Also had time to get an intake seat bored and installed. Next step is getting the exhaust seats in. Yes I left the intake seat proud by about .125" due to being unable to get the seat thickness I wanted. What's a few more chips on the floor? J.Rob
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Are those OEM 5.7 valve springs? Aftermarket is very proud of Beehive springs. I assume these are more reasonably priced. Thanks for any info.Thanks. Moving on to the cylinder heads -after taking a bunch of measurements and some quick mock-ups it looks like cracked Magnum heads will be employed with G3 Hemi valves, springs and locks. I have some 5/16 x 3/8" Oldsmobile studs from Comp cams and will use them with Comp's 4825 guide plate and some Chev stamped steel rockers from Melling. I'm backing off on the idea of a roller rocker ATM in order to keep this as cheap as possible. The springs will provide 118 lbs @ 1.700 I.H. and 290 lbs @ 1.200". Pulling the cages off of them gave me the rates I wanted. This valvetrain should be lighter than even the stock Magnum stuff--I'm hoping it will turn the RPM I need. J.Rob
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Are those OEM 5.7 valve springs? Aftermarket is very proud of Beehive springs. I assume these are more reasonably priced. Thanks for any info.
Hmmm,,,,,, this talk about G3 Hemi valves in magnum heads has me thinking! I just bought a set of EQ-la bare heads, and have springs from a drag pak motor, and plan on a similar build to this one, including the hp goals. My used roller is .481 lift, 276 duration, 224@ .050 and 106 LSA. My intake will be what ever a swap meet can produce, I have TQ and Holley 750 carbs, and a boneyard close by with four used compression checked Magnum 5.9s for $375. I plan to look them over but hopefully bolt the heads on an untouched shortblock and have at it with 1 5/8 headers. With luck and some good parts 400 hp would be a big success for me, I think. RAMM, thanks for posting your build, it is a big help for many, and I believe what we give away comes back three to ten fold!