Cinnamon 75 Duster \

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Wasn't too hot in the garage tonight, so I spent a little time cleaning off my work table. Then I got to looking around and saw one of my 'put off till another day' projects. The overflow had a leak in the bottom. I was thinking of putting epoxy in it. But with no way to clean it really good or rough up the inside, I figured that was not likely to hold up. So, I decided to melt it shut. I used my torch to heat a putty knife and redistribute plastic from the seam. I tried using a bottle as filler, but it did not stick good. So, I trimmed a little off the bottom off the tube and it worked. Installed and holding water.

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Zkx14- Did you catch that last reply on page 13. Tell me what you think
 
TF360 said:
Zkx14- I ordered those window felts from Josh's Muscle car parts you mentioned the other day. Put them on my 74 Duster, but the drivers outside felt (with the chrome strip) did not fit right. You mentioned that yours fit? Mine stuck up in the center- quite a bit on the drivers side. Yours fit perfect? Just trying to compare it to something.
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Didn't notice it before, but just went and looked. Not much, but it definitely is a little high (enough that I will try to adjust it). And passenger side is fine. As I recall the holes are slotted sideways, but that height is not adjustable without modifying something. Guess I know what my next thing to work on will be. :BangHead: sorry if I steered you wrong. Will update with what I do to it.
 
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I seen a NOS overflow tank on craigslist yesterday for sale. Said it was never installed. $200
 
Rd2Scamp said:
I seen a NOS overflow tank on craigslist yesterday for sale. Said it was never installed. $200
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Ouch. Thing was probably $5 in '75... Hopefully my repair worked. If not, I will find a chunk of a busted one and build the repair thicker.
 
zkx14 said:
Didn't notice it before, but just went and looked. Not much, but it definitely is a little high (enough that I will try to adjust it). And passenger side is fine. As I recall the holes are slotted sideways, but that height is not adjustable without modifying something. Guess I know what my next thing to work on will be. :BangHead: sorry if I steered you wrong. Will update with what I do to it.
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@TF360
So, here's what I did. These things are a bit of a pain when you don't already have everything off the door cause the glass covers some of the screws. I first took the stop bumper off the bottom. Glass still did not clear screws. Decided to remove the guide bar. That gave enough wiggle room to move the glass and remove all screws. Before removing them, I made a mark below all screws except the end ones where the height was OK. Then with the strip removed from the door, I used a 1/8 round file to enlarge the hole upward, opposite from my marks. Held file at an angle to avoid hitting the fuzzy seal. A few strokes quickly cut near an 1/8". That would have been all it needed, just hold at correct reveal and tighten. But, two of the holes in my door stripped. So I just drilled another hole near them and screwed it in. You could just redrill of them all, probably easier.

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Just put a few gaskets on. Don't know if they were supposed to be included when I got my gasket kit from DMT a few years back, but I still needed the one for trunk lock and the bulb socket seals to the grille. Another one done thanks to my Carlisle visit. Saw Jim @jamesfillmore while there. He took my name and address and they were in my mailbox the other day- no charge. I'm sure a PM would have got same results, but always nice to do things in-person.
 
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Rd2Scamp said:
I cant get mine to clean up
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My water level was still same as I left it after repair. Pulled it out and dumped it since I needed to get to the turn signal in the grille to change gasket. Decided to try cleaning it better. I used Zep purple that I got from Home Depot. Sprayed in the part where the hose goes on (and everywhere else) let it sit about 5 min and used a soft brush on outside. Not sure what I used on it previously, but this stuff took more off and got a lot more out of the tube where I cant get at it. Still some yellow brown that I think is plastic color change from heat, but I believe it's as clean as it's ever gonna get.
 
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Cleaned my door panels yesterday. Spray painted the plastic top parts and the latch release cups. Didn't see this hairline crack till after I sprayed it. Roughed it up with sand cloth and epoxied it. Used a piece of sandcloth as a backer. Forced some through the crack and wiped excess off front. When dry, painted with a couple coats of Krylon Dual. The foam that sorta seals around the handles was shot, so I replaced that. Put new plastic barrier on the doors.

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Put the inner fuzzy seals on. Just predrilled and used the screws they provide. Armrests were stained, so sprayed with color. Windows were not sealing as well as they should. So, spent a while adjusting. Put everything together...

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One more thing I did yesterday... washer squirters installed. Put them in some evap'o-rust recently, so they were already pretty clean. Wire brushed and painted. Even cleaned up the hoses. The F connector is new.

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I used Krylon Dual on the armrests. Its good for plastic, but aperently not flexible vinyl. After a couple days the paint was still tacky. Especially when really hot. I took them off and sprayed with clear, but not much better. So decided to strip the paint. I use Stoko ATP hand cleaner for getting just about anything off my hands, so decided it was worth a try. Worked great and got them better looking than they were before I painted them. Not sure if I will use them as-is or try to find SEM or similar in right color. May have to do same for visors. :BangHead:
 
ugh. More leaks. Now its the drivers door. Had heavy rain yesterday thru last night. passenger side dry. Drivers side soaked. Seamed like it got through door and came out under interior panel. Will pull the panel and get someone to hose it down while I watch for leaks. Glass looks like its sealed good. The only place I see that water can get in the door is at the back top corner of the metal just behind the fuzzy seal. But, that is open on passenger side same way. anything that gets in there should drain out the bottom. ??? whats really frustrating - even with all the old seals and no inner panel it was dry....
 
Was just out doing a little investigating. Took off the inner panel of the driver side door. Set the hose up to spray the car. went in from passenger side. good news is I saw NOTHING coming in around the glass. But, Sure enough water is pouring down the center inside the door. also coming in at the back edge where I saw the gap earlier.
Turned off the hose and looked closer. the new fuzzies appear to have firm contact across the glass, BUT(theres that evil word again), I see a slight gap between the outside of the fuzzy seal and where it mounts to the door. HMMMM
To verify, I got a strip of roll caulk (removable) and laid it across the joint. pushed down gently to seal but still easy to clean off, and repeated showering the car. Still saw a few drips, but reduced enough to say absolutely this is the main problem! So here I go again. I will need to get some kind of sealent between there. Maybe add a couple screws... I may also add something at the back end. Piece of leftover trunk seal perhaps.
 
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Had another go at the driver door seal. Didn't completely remove the guide bar this time. Easier to just position it inward and the regulator plate can sit down far enough for the top of the glass to clear the seal. Put about an 1/8" bead of clear RTV on the door this time. After too many times of remove and replace, hardly any screws tightened. I wanted to add a couple anyway, so now all the center ones are closer together than original. I marked the regulator nut positions with a sharpie, so all went back together easy.
Something I noticed last time I did this is how the parts in the second pic are supposed to work. The part on the window needs to grab the plastic piece on the door as it comes up. this pulls the black rubber part into the glass to seat it tight against the outer seal just as the window reaches the top.

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so far so good. After a few hours dry time for the RTV, I hosed it down. Center area, inside is dry. Back end, still have water running down through the door in the latch area. While this is the way it was from the factory, I don't like it, so still plan to improve it.
 
In my continuing efforts to get parts out of the garage and onto the car, this was a big one. Front bumper is on. Just steel wooled it and polished it the best I could. The bumperettes had some chrome peeling and the rubber was cracked and loose at bottom. Did touch up with chrome spray and used weatherstripping adhesive to hold the rubber in place. I started another thread about what the holes in bottom are for.
Hole under 75 Duster bumper?
While they may be an extra, unused, production thing, something was in them...​



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As mentioned previously... This is the opening I was talking about. While not terribly large, any water running back on the outer fuzzy drains straight down into the door. ??? So I trimmed up a piece of leftover trunk gasket and stuck it there. Should divert about 99% of that water outside the door. Also took the outer fuzzy off the passenger door and ran a bead of RTV even though that one had not leaked like the driver side.
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Yea zxk, I'm working on the doors like you. I have that gap too. Funny, I said the same thing to myself. (all the water is going to run in there.) Are those the original screws holding your door gasket in place?
 
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