Cost for labor on stroker build?

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matt030305

matt030305

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Hey FABO, I’ve been looking into building a 340 based stroker (416). I have stock bore so I will need machine work done. I was wondering what the cost (ballpark) will be in terms of labor if I buy all the parts for the stroker. I will be pulling the motor out of my car in order to bring it to a machine shop.
Thanks!
 
Probably $1500- 2000, depending on how much work is needed. That was boil block, install cam brgs, freezeout plugs, balance lower end, and clearance block for stroker crank and hone cylinders. Block was already bored 30 over, so just honed sleeves.
 
machine shop pricing varies wildly depending on location and type of shop.

i'm in los angeles and did a stroker last year. the machine shop only handled the machine work on the block, i brought it in disassembled. total ticket was $1855

here's the run down: hot tank & mag the block, bore & hone with torque plates, align hone the mains, squared the deck, clearance for crank, installed new cam bearings & freeze plugs, checked the rods and crank.

i could've saved about $250 if i didn't have them use torque plates or install the cam bearings. but i also don't think they charged me to pop in the freeze plugs and check the rods and crank.

most shops around here charge another $200~250 if you show up with a whole motor just for the tear down inspection and clean up. figure on about $400 labor to knock it all back together so you'd be looking at probably around 2.2K in the bottom end.

then whatever it is to rebuild your heads. say the stuff is decent and just needs a little work, i like round numbers so lit's go with 1k on that.

so you're probably looking right around a 4K tab at the machine shop. without parts. or paint. and no broke off bolts or needing anything extra like thread repair.
 
matt030305 said:
Hey FABO, I’ve been looking into building a 340 based stroker (416). I have stock bore so I will need machine work done. I was wondering what the cost (ballpark) will be in terms of labor if I buy all the parts for the stroker. I will be pulling the motor out of my car in order to bring it to a machine shop.
Thanks!
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A quick glance at my recent machine shop bill for my 340/420: (I gave him the block and main bearings only.)
Machine work:
Clean & Mag $125
Bore & hone $300
Deck Block $175

Assembly and parts: My shop would not allow me to buy my own parts. He wanted to choose the parts if he was doing the machine and assembly. We did agree on the parts ahead of time, but he had more vendors that he used on a weekly basis to help out on delivery issues at that time.
Short block Assembly $450
Cam bearings $73/Freeze Plugs $24/Install $75
Rings and bearings $435
Cust Pistons $1310
Main Studs $110
4” Crank $800
Rods $610
Balance Assy $200
Machine block for clearance $200

The biggest problem that I ran into was the timing of the machine work. Around here, covid took out a few engine shops and the shops left were only running with 1-3 employees. The backlog of the shop that I chose was about 12-16 months at the time that I dropped off the block. The entire waiting period was around 19 months to get the assembled block. So, the machine and assembly was in the 3 month range with parts.

The longest lead times besides the block work, was the 6-8 weeks for custom pistons, then I recently had another 10 week delay for valve springs.

Hopefully you have better results on parts deliveries/back orders.
 
Also to add: buying parts from the machine shop may cost a bit more but honestly it helps them stay in business.
With that said - a good machine shop bores the holes and “sizes” them to the pistons individually per cylinder.
You cannot do that at home… easily.
Everyone is an assembly hero after watching a few videos, reading some books and I’m not sure of your skill level. I’ve personally assembled over 50 engines in my life time - some are still racing around on the street to this day. So I am all for you assembling your own engine. There is a lot of pride and satisfaction in doing so. But recognizing your limitations and letting the professionals do their job is well worth the money.
Syleng1
 
mygasser said:
if you can find a machine shop that speaks fluent mopar and you'll find them easier to work with. :thumbsup:
neil.
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Yes! And this too. There are machine shops that will do Mopar’s and Mopar machine shops that will work on other stuff.
The difference is night and day.
 
Lots of good mopar shops around, especially if your willing to travel a bit, or even ship
 
matt030305 said:
Hey FABO, I’ve been looking into building a 340 based stroker (416). I have stock bore so I will need machine work done. I was wondering what the cost (ballpark) will be in terms of labor if I buy all the parts for the stroker. I will be pulling the motor out of my car in order to bring it to a machine shop.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
At the shop I work with it costs roughly $4500 for all of the labor associated with machine work, balancing, bearing and ring fit, surfacing, assembly and then dyno test. Stroker engines are usually around $7500 of parts and $4500 for labor so out the door around $12K but that number varies all over the place since some guys have used parts, others buy all new, etc.
 
AndyF said:
At the shop I work with it costs roughly $4500 for all of the labor associated with machine work, balancing, bearing and ring fit, surfacing, assembly and then dyno test. Stroker engines are usually around $7500 of parts and $4500 for labor so out the door around $12K but that number varies all over the place since some guys have used parts, others buy all new, etc.
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Dead on what I paid for mine.
 
-Boosted- said:
Dead on what I paid for mine.
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Oh geez, at that point I might be better off building up the top end. Never realized how expensive it would get doing a stroker kit. I’m looking for something that’s very street able but can get me bragging rights. Thank you all for your input and help!
 
if the motor is in good condition why not throw a cam at it and maybe do some heads or work a little love on the stock units?

if you don't have a converter and gears, that would be another area to upgrade. and while i wouldn't say that stuff is cheap, it's an alternative to dropping massive coin.

you could probably do all that for about 1/2 of what a stroker would run (if you're swinging the wrenches yourself)
 
matt030305 said:
Oh geez, at that point I might be better off building up the top end. Never realized how expensive it would get doing a stroker kit. I’m looking for something that’s very street able but can get me bragging rights. Thank you all for your input and help!
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That’s for my complete long block including trick flow heads and solid roller cam
 
Should be same labor to build one as 340/360/318. As long as you have stroker kit with I-beam rods that doesn't require notching block. If you are a under 500 horsepower street motor you don't need H-beam rods.

Stock 340 stroke is 3.31"... 4" stroker is 4.00".

That's a difference of .69" total stroke up and down. So the rod journal is only half that amount outwards than a stock crank. So the rod journal is only .345" wider outwards. That's little less than 3/8". THAT'S IT

It's not rocket science.
 
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Big fan of strokers! Spend the coin - you would not regret it. The torque they make is incredible!! Can't really use it on the street as it's just a smoke show if you hammer it. But they are quite the hoot for sure.

As for cost, aside from the crank/rods/pistons, they are no different than any other rebuild.
 
I had a SB ford built by a local Maryland shop in 2017 so I'm sure prices have went up since then. I bought all the parts and they did the machine work and assembly. Bore, Line Bore, Balance, Assemble, Piston Pin Adj, Cam bearing install, deck block, file fit rings, deck mock up, plain cylinder heads was right around $2000.
 
matt030305 said:
Oh geez, at that point I might be better off building up the top end. Never realized how expensive it would get doing a stroker kit. I’m looking for something that’s very street able but can get me bragging rights. Thank you all for your input and help!
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What are you doing for top end ? If your using just the 340 top end (heads) you may gain a few hp, but what your mainly doing is lowering the powerband in rpm, eg.. Say your 340 engine likes 3000-6000 rpm a 416 might be 2500-5500 rpm or less.
 
$12k for mine, parts and labor.

Eagle forged kit (crank, h-beam rods, forged Mahle pistons), Roller cam/lifters, CNC Speedmaster heads, Victor 340 intake, Mancini roller rockers
 
273 said:
What are you doing for top end ? If your using just the 340 top end (heads) you may gain a few hp, but what your mainly doing is lowering the powerband in rpm, eg.. Say your 340 engine likes 3000-6000 rpm a 416 might be 2500-5500 rpm or less.
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I plan on porting my J heads (or just invest in aluminum heads and get those ported), hydraulic roller, and some bolt ons. Going to a machine shop today to gauge how much they would charge here in NY.
 
junkyardhero said:
if the motor is in good condition why not throw a cam at it and maybe do some heads or work a little love on the stock units?

if you don't have a converter and gears, that would be another area to upgrade. and while i wouldn't say that stuff is cheap, it's an alternative to dropping massive coin.

you could probably do all that for about 1/2 of what a stroker would run (if you're swinging the wrenches yourself)
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x2 on this.

I had a bad knock that took some investigation. At first I thought it was piston slap… so then I thought about building a bore and stroke motor. But it ended up being loose flex plate bolts.

Nonetheless the block is still very healthy, i wouldn’t bore it out unless I had to.

I also plan on doing a gear and converter upgrade soon. Not too well versed in the converter realm so will have to look into that.
 
i like it.

remember to go into it with realistic expectations. everybody wants to build street/strip cars or 400+ horse or whatever and throw hi stall converters around with tall *** gears-- which is fine if that's the kind of driving you want to do and the performance you're looking for.

everything has to work as a system, each component has to complement the other. if you aim for a well thought out combo and nicely set up car it'll be so much more enjoyable than just picking hot rod **** and throwing it in.

there are some very smart people here that have excellent advice on selecting things like that (i am not one of them). but i will say this: you need to call and order a torque converter, one that is specifically designed for your set up and the type of driving you plan on doing. to not do so would just be a disservice to all the other work you'll put in.

good luck with the build!
 
moparstud440 said:
I had a SB ford built by a local Maryland shop in 2017 so I'm sure prices have went up since then. I bought all the parts and they did the machine work and assembly. Bore, Line Bore, Balance, Assemble, Piston Pin Adj, Cam bearing install, deck block, file fit rings, deck mock up, plain cylinder heads was right around $2000.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by piston pin adj?
 
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