Dartin for Divorce

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Looks like typical A body door striker breakage. The part that formerly protruded out into the door jamb, for the door latch mechanism to grab onto and hold the door shut has broken the thin sheet metal of the jamb out. It screws into the back piece, which kind of slide around in that bracket on the back side, in your last pic. Being able to move around is how you adjust the striker. If you will unscrew the striker from the back piece, you will find a piece of sheet metal that perfectly matches that hole in the door jamb. You can fix it by putting a big fender washer behind the striker, and on the outside of the hole in the door jamb, and putting the square-ish piece back in the inside, and screwing it all back together. All that will make more sense when you get it unscrewed and have the 3 pieces in your hands. You can get a big fender washer at Lowes or Home Depot, on the bolt aisle. They are usually in the specialty fastener drawers. More than likely, you will need to drill the center hole of the washer out for the striker threads to go thru. Then it's trial and error getting it adjusted until you get it right. It's just a temporary fix to keep the door shut until you can get a repair patch welded in. Check your drivers side when you get that one fixed. They usually break first! Hope this helps. :)
 
JDMopar said:
Looks like typical A body door striker breakage. The part that formerly protruded out into the door jamb, for the door latch mechanism to grab onto and hold the door shut has broken the thin sheet metal of the jamb out. It screws into the back piece, which kind of slide around in that bracket on the back side, in your last pic. Being able to move around is how you adjust the striker. If you will unscrew the striker from the back piece, you will find a piece of sheet metal that perfectly matches that hole in the door jamb. You can fix it by putting a big fender washer behind the striker, and on the outside of the hole in the door jamb, and putting the square-ish piece back in the inside, and screwing it all back together. All that will make more sense when you get it unscrewed and have the 3 pieces in your hands. You can get a big fender washer at Lowes or Home Depot, on the bolt aisle. They are usually in the specialty fastener drawers. More than likely, you will need to drill the center hole of the washer out for the striker threads to go thru. Then it's trial and error getting it adjusted until you get it right. It's just a temporary fix to keep the door shut until you can get a repair patch welded in. Check your drivers side when you get that one fixed. They usually break first! Hope this helps. :)
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So its broken? Dang...

Do I need a patch of fast sheet metal or sheet of replacement from an old dart?
 
AMD has the parts to fix the door striker, if you need it. You may be able to work with what you have.
 
Yea I found a couple of pieces. Classic industries is 100, dynamic renovation, and then some diy if you have a welder... I dont.

I also found some DIY repairs. Right now I'm at Home Depot and ill grab a big washer to hold it in place for a bit.

I also checked my drivers side... I didn't see any cracks around the striker.... but my car has been repainted so I don't know whats under the paint.

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Doc, surely with your contacts & as large a Vegas is you can find someone to do a 10 minute MIG weld job. LOL
 
DentalDart said:
So its broken? Dang...

Do I need a patch of fast sheet metal or sheet of replacement from an old dart?
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The piece of sheetmetal that needs to be welded back into the door jamb is the shape of the hole you see in there now. The piece is sandwiched between the striker pin and that odd shaped thicker piece that's touching your hand. Take it apart and it'll be obvious.
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Demonracer said:
Doc, surely with your contacts & as large a Vegas is you can find someone to do a 10 minute MIG weld job. LOL
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Touche' My uncle owns a large welding company in Las vegas lol.

Tony also has a welder... I bought some washers. This will do until I get it welded...
 
69_340_GTS said:
The piece of sheetmetal that needs to be welded back into the door jamb is the shape of the hole you see in there now. The piece is sandwiched between the striker pin and that odd shaped thicker piece that's touching your hand. Take it apart and it'll be obvious.
View attachment 1715671411
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I understand how it goes together after taking it apart. Thank you!

I agree welding it back together is the proper way to fix it that should be done sooner rather than later... especially with how much I drive the car...
 
You are welcome to use my welder...I can not get over there until later in the week...but you can come get it...

Pretty sure I got some thin .023 wire....and the welder can run on 110 or 220...
 
70aarcuda said:
You are welcome to use my welder...I can not get over there until later in the week...but you can come get it...

Pretty sure I got some thin .023 wire....and the welder can run on 110 or 220...
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Both sides need fixed.... im going to go get another washer... Thanks for the offer, I've been slacking on helping you out the past week. Maybe Monday after my daughters Dr appointment I can swing by.

Fixed the first side for now...

Also trying to get this rear window fixed... I havent been able to get it to line up for the past 2 hours... :mad::BangHead: its either I can get the top to line up and not the bottom or the bottom lines up but not the top.

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Should be there on Monday....just dont catch your garage on fire...lol
 
Went to use my new grinder today... well it doesn't have a normal collet, it has an adjustable one like a drill, only problem is it doesn't adjust big enough to use 1/4in bits....

I'll have to figure something out to use it. Either cheap 1/4 bits or an adapter of some sort... which i havent found yet...
 
Temp fix on other door until I can get over to Aarcudas house.

Bent 2 more brand new carbide burrs... :BangHead: ordered a cheap set of 1/8in shank double cut carbide burrs to run in the HF flex shaft grinder... if this doesn't work, well then my porting days may be over as the cost of bending and breaking burrs before they even touch the cylinder head is to much. Aarcuda is about to make his yellow duster faster than my dart with new cylinder heads... not cool...

Oh I had some extra 3m vinyl laying in the garage, so I made my different colored rear door card top look better. I like it...

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May I recommend you measure the deepest point into whatever you need to port (heads, manifolds, etc), then cut the excess off of your long-stem carbide burrs. I think you will find that there is probably 2-3" of excess stem you can cut. When you do this, you shorten the problem; the bit will be less likely to snag & bend. I modified practically every long-stem burr I ever bought to maximize physics.
 
mpgmike said:
May I recommend you measure the deepest point into whatever you need to port (heads, manifolds, etc), then cut the excess off of your long-stem carbide burrs. I think you will find that there is probably 2-3" of excess stem you can cut. When you do this, you shorten the problem; the bit will be less likely to snag & bend. I modified practically every long-stem burr I ever bought to maximize physics.
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Good idea, thanks.

I cut down the bent ones already, 2 of them are usable now and will work for what I'm doing.
 
Rear upper door cards done. Now to fix the vinyl on the door card, 3m adhesive here...that stuff is nasty lol. I'm also going to get a bit more carbon fiber 3m to do the fronts as well.

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Lost out on some Indy RHS MAG-X heads that were posted for sale. They were listed at 500, I messaged the guy and when he got back to me the next morning he said someone was on their way to pick them up already. Dang, so close.

So spent some practicing my porting skills. I picked up some cheap amazon/chinese 1/8th diameter shank double cut carbide burrs. Put them in the small grinder and they worked pretty well.

I think between those for smaller shaping, and the larger burrs in the pneumatic die grinder to take off mass I should be able to clean up these ports quite nicely...
 
This guy still has this for sale. 1970 340 block 40 over. 360 block is rough, told me 10-29 bucks and I could have the 360 block... lol told him I could get a complete running 360 for 150, which is how much it would cost to resleeve his blown 360 lol.

Here are the cylinders of the 340 block. Guy thinks its worth gold... told him couple hundred dollars is all its worth to me. Cylinders for the most part were pretty clean, I didnt feel many imperfections when running my hands down the cylinder walls. Tony brought up a good point on the ring stop, and if that is detectable with your fingernail it couldn't be honed out and would need bored.

Oh I also had to break it to him that his J heads were worth its weight in dirt...because you can get them for free... ask me how i know lol.

I measured it with his micrometer, but some spots it read 4.03/4.04 and others 4.07. So most likely tool user error... Tony says I can borrow a 40 over piston to measure them if I want though.

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Have to get better at this, at quicker... aarcuda is swapping aluminum heads onto his cruiser duster and I can't let him have 200hp more than me.... I ordered another flew shaft in amazon that accepts 1/4in burrs

He is allowing me to try out one of his holley double pumpers on my car.... then I guess if it works better, what ever that would feel like haha, I may trade my AVS2 for a brawler 770 thats listed on FABO.

I also got some more carbon fiber wrap to do the tops of my inner front doors above the door card. So ill try to do that this week.

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69_340_GTS said:
That isn't a "double pumper". Nice Holley though.
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Thanks!

I know its not. That one is vac secondary as well. I'd prefer mechanical secondary 750 double pumper, but the brawler is one step closer to a double pumper and I dont come out of pocket for it lol

Things still going ok with you and the family?
 
I have never seen a "double pumper" recommended for a street car with an automatic. Plus they are all mechanical secondaries, which you also don't usually want with an automatic.

Thanks for asking. Everybody is A-OK here! Looking at big snowstorm today/tomorrow though.
 
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