Dartin for Divorce

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DentalDart said:
My rear end is leaking gear oil. I torqued everything to spec so I dont know why it would be leaking. I tightened the bolts more and it's still leaking. Sucks that not only is it leaking but I also lose out on 2 qts of gear oil.
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is it from where the 3rd member and the housing meet? gasket installed?
 
Sounds like a missing or torn Gasket. Did you clean up both mating surfaces really well? Use any sealer? Thread locker?

At room temp, that stuff doesn't like to flow so there must be something screwby going on.
 
kursplat said:
find a place close by that does axle / suspension repairs on trucks. they should be able to make you a set while you wait. take your old one and tell them how much longer you need them.

example: Rite-Way - Contact
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I got some. Went to a place named Mcfadendales and they have like every nut and bolt known to man. Picked up 2 5.5in length ubolts and they fit great.

Just about this leak. Hope it's not the crush sleeve, going to check right now
 
It's definitely the seal between the 3rd member and the housing. I might just try to use rtv blue gasket only on the housing as I have read many people do that, instead of using another paper gasket.

I didnt see anything dripping down the housing on the outside, just seeping through the crack between the housing and the 3rd member.

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Put some chrome polish on these bad boys. Still impressed and dont think they are to bad for 80 bucks!

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Buying a new gasket now as mine was torn. Also got some of this rtv green gasket maker that dr diff has recommended to others.

Needed some brake line fittings as my new proportioning valve has different sized ports than the 3/16 I have on the front hard line I replaced. I believe it is a 1/4 in port on the proportioning valve.

I won't say it because something will for sure go wrong if I said it...but if I were going to guess I could get it all bolted back up and the brakes bled tonight then drive the car for a slurpee run tomorrow....

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Good to see you are getting close to being back on the road with no leaks
 
Without the OEM copper (bronze?) washers on those nuts, you're bound to spring some more leaks from around the studs.
 
The nuts (OEM) are the kind with an integral washer. I'm pretty sure they are bronze or copper, so that they crush somewhat on the harder cast iron. Makes a pretty good seal around the stud. I can't say for sure if they were always used or not though.
 
No leaking this morning
69_340_GTS said:
The nuts (OEM) are the kind with an integral washer. I'm pretty sure they are bronze or copper, so that they crush somewhat on the harder cast iron. Makes a pretty good seal around the stud. I can't say for sure if they were always used or not though.
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I have gold colored nylon lock nuts on most of the bolts, like 3 of them have silver lock nuts on them since ace ran out of the nylon ones.

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Well cant get the brakes to bleed, the rear shoes aren't moving much and the front calipers seem to not release and let the rotors move idk...
 
DentalDart said:
Well cant get the brakes to bleed, the rear shoes aren't moving much and the front calipers seem to not release and let the rotors move idk...
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Are you sure you have the PROP Valve plumbed up correctly ?
 
if i use the vac bleeder i use a wire to make a hanger for the bottle. box wrench on the bleeder. left hand holding the hose on the bleeder nipple to hold it in place. right hand on wrench to crack bleeder open. then right hand to operate vacuum pump. a couple of pulls and close bleeder. don't forget to check the MC, keep it topped off. when your daughter gets about 10yr she'll be able to help with the brake peddle to bleed em'
 
kursplat said:
if i use the vac bleeder i use a wire to make a hanger for the bottle. box wrench on the bleeder. left hand holding the hose on the bleeder nipple to hold it in place. right hand on wrench to crack bleeder open. then right hand to operate vacuum pump. a couple of pulls and close bleeder. don't forget to check the MC, keep it topped off. when your daughter gets about 10yr she'll be able to help with the brake peddle to bleed em'
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Good idea on tha . I was using a smaller bucket but now I have 2 empty bottles of brake fluid which is much easier to use.

Bodyperson said:
Pack some grease around the nipple.
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This is what I was thinking of doing as I watched a youtube video and the guy did that.

I just put the drums back on, I made the mistake of not having them on last night which apparently is a big no no. So maybe that will help too!

I couldn't get the calipers to release off of the rotors so I'm hoping it is from having the drums off and not from the MC rod being to long
 
DentalDart said:
I couldn't get the calipers to release off of the rotors so I'm hoping it is from having the drums off and not from the MC rod being to long
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one should not affect the other. by not releasing your saying the rotor is clamped and you can not spin the wheels? if the wheels spin you should be ok, the front pads ride on the rotors all the time
 
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