I originally couldn't spin the rotors at all. I opened the bleeders front bleeders and was able to press the caliper piston in a little and now the front rotors spin.
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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I originally couldn't spin the rotors at all. I opened the bleeders front bleeders and was able to press the caliper piston in a little and now the front rotors spin.
That sounds like the caliper not the master cylinder though it does not remove both from the equation. I went back trying to see what has been done as my memory does not serve me but did not find all of the info I was looking for, This is all getting a little muddy. It may be time for a new post title to specify the different issues.
I now see you have another discussion on this subject but you were too kind to call me out on it.
Video 1- I compressed the pistons and the rotor spins pretty easy (if I didnt know better I'd assume this is the correct drag)
Video 2 - after pressing brake pedal, the rotor is much harder to turn. If I didnt know better I'd think this is to much drag.
Video 2 - after pressing brake pedal, the rotor is much harder to turn. If I didnt know better I'd think this is to much drag.
lets keep it simple. Something is obviously holding pressure on the calipers. I would start with the last thing you replaced ( assuming they worked before that component was replaced). Otherwise, start at the calipers and work your way back.. or start at the brake pedal and work your way downstream.
Are the rears holding pressure too?
Are the rears holding pressure too?
I replaced everything lol.
Brakes are working, still slightly sticky maybe they just have to be broken in.
My daughter was pissed I started driving it without her.
Battery isnt holding a charge though. Shes dead in the water right now. Jumped her then she died right after I removed the battery cables.
She looks damn good though, especially with the redlines on!
Battery isnt holding a charge though. Shes dead in the water right now. Jumped her then she died right after I removed the battery cables.
Hey Doc, one way to test that the ALT is charging ,is when it's running remove the ground cable off the battery and if the engine dies the Alt isn't charging
Hey Doc, one way to test that the ALT is charging ,is when it's running remove the ground cable off the battery and if the engine dies the Alt isn't charging
Ok I'll do this! I may have also shorted out my battery on accident when I was messing with my hard lines and prop valve.
She started right up with a new battery!
Looky looky daddy's got a new shaft!
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
You can also have the battery tested at most auto stores. It's unusual for a bad battery to keep the car from running after a jump. It's possible, but sometimes the voltage regulator craps out when there's a significant demand for charging current (like right after a jump).
The new battery won't hurt, but if your alternator or regulator is dead the new battery won't get the car too far.
I highly recommend a trickle charger too. Comes in handy keeping weekend cars topped up and also helps when you accidentally kill a battery on occasion ;)
What's the regulator? Voltage regulator?
yes a small black box on the firewall around your steering column, under the hood
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Hit your local auto parts store and have them test the battery and alt in the car. If there's a problem, it'll show up pretty quick.
If you have a multimeter, you can also do some tests at home. Measure the voltage at the battery during cranking, it should stay above 10.5v. Then check volts running. It should measure 14-15v. At rest the battery should read 12-12.6v but resting voltage means nothing without voltage under load (during cranking).
If you have a multimeter, you can also do some tests at home. Measure the voltage at the battery during cranking, it should stay above 10.5v. Then check volts running. It should measure 14-15v. At rest the battery should read 12-12.6v but resting voltage means nothing without voltage under load (during cranking).
Tried this, alternator is charging.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Not related at all.....but I found you a starter kit of torture devices! Dental Tools - tools - by owner - sale
Dental Tools - tools - by owner - sale
Well I was driving down the street and I heard a jingling sound, the nut to my UCA fell off... that sucks, luckily I have more. It's weird that it came loose because it had a lock washer on it...
Not related at all.....but I found you a starter kit of torture devices!
Those things that resemble pliers are for extracting teeth!
This is the lock washers that came with the pst kit... no wonder the nut came off...
Replaced them and then raised the car a little as well.
Is this grease ok for greasing all the joints and bushings? It's what is in my grease gun.
Replaced them and then raised the car a little as well.
Is this grease ok for greasing all the joints and bushings? It's what is in my grease gun.
Probably better than no grease. Should be ok.
See what I mean ? Bad things can happen if the wrong parts fall off.
never hurts to double check things.
See what I mean ? Bad things can happen if the wrong parts fall off.
never hurts to double check things.
View attachment 1715473849
Well those are the only bolts that dont have the little holes in them where you put the for the safety clips.
Fixed the exhaust leak, now I just have to tighten up the drivers side exhaust hanger because the exhaust is loose.
may be an optical illusion but it looks like the bushing on the sway bar needs tightening
I tightened it down really tight, but I'm going to go back over every bolt in the suspension and make sure nothing rattled loose.
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