Dartin for Divorce

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That lock washer looks like it was too big, or over torqued.

Probably the latter. A new one is on with a new nut now. Tightened down and then put a little tac weld to just be safe... just kidding on that last part.

Going to try and do my brakes again today. See if we can get the lines bled a little better
 
Im sure you know this, but suspension components should not be torqued while its on jacks. Ideally you want it back on all four.
 
Im sure you know this, but suspension components should not be torqued while its on jacks. Ideally you want it back on all four.

I've got polyurethane bushings, from what 72blu says with polyurethane you can tighten everything while its jacked in the air.

I'm currently chasing a jingling gremlin though.
 
School! Decent stance. The suspension is definitely more stiff . I need to add the rear sway bar and see how much more stiff it gets.

Do these leaf springs look flat?

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Put some brake fluid in the larger piston calipers, tomorrow I may try to install those and possibly the other caliper brackets I have so I can install new brake caliper hardware. It feels like the calipers stick a little and that I havent been able to bleed them 100% so I might as well try something different

I got the jingle to get a little better by adjusting the rear shoes i also thought i got the exhaust leak to go away but it appears not. I also need to get some new windshield wipers.

Theres always something to do right?!



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I hear this when I press the brake pedal I wonder if this could be the air that I cant seem to shake? It's only when the bleeders are closed, theres definitely air somewhere.

 
Bled them again, did the syringe through MC ( 3 full syringes through the rear port for each side) for the rears and then gravity bled the fronts style absolutely no air bubbles in the fronts and dang they still dont feel right. first pump of the brakes is still way lighter than the rears, I dont see any leaks so now I'm starting to get frustrated. I used almost a full bottle of brake fluid this time. I have no clue what I should do. Maybe its the prop valve? Or maybe I'm going to have to solicit my wife to pump the rears a whole bunch for me. Idk
 
That sounds like you may have leak in the power booster. That is different from air in the brake lines themselves. How do the brakes feel? That pedal looks very soft.
 
That sounds like you may have leak in the power booster. That is different from air in the brake lines themselves. How do the brakes feel? That pedal looks very soft.

I dont have a power booster... I have manual brakes with a brand new MC

I rebled them after posting that picture. Right now the first pump the pedal feels soft and falls closer to the floor, every pump after that the sucker is rock solid.
 
Right now the first pump the pedal feels soft and falls closer to the floor, every pump after that the sucker is rock solid.

This is your answer. Although, I am not sure what the remedy is. The fact that you can "pump them up" means something. Are you sure the rear shoes are adjusted correctly? They should have a slight drag when you turn the wheels.
 
I dont have a power booster... I have manual brakes with a brand new MC

I rebled them after posting that picture. Right now the first pump the pedal feels soft and falls closer to the floor, every pump after that the sucker is rock solid.
sounds like the MC is leaking internally. was that a rebuild or brand new?
 
This is your answer. Although, I am not sure what the remedy is. The fact that you can "pump them up" means something. Are you sure the rear shoes are adjusted correctly? They should have a slight drag when you turn the wheels.

Yes they are adjusted to having a slight drag, I adjusted them to tight then backed them off a touch and now they just have a slight drag.

sounds like the MC is leaking internally. was that a rebuild or brand new?

Brand new one from Orielys.


@Gearhed73 walked me through a couple things and he said it could be the crush washer on the fitting to the proportioning valve is preventing the inverted flare from seating all the way causing a slight leak.

This is the crush washer in question.

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Try this: pump up the brakes. Does it stay solid after they're pumped?

Now back up and stop. Does it need to be pumped up again before you get full pedal? Does it stay solid once you do though?

Pull forward. Same quiz. Does it take an extra pump?

If so, it can be pad knock back. My brake kit did this too. I snugged up my front wheel bearings some more and it helped, but didn't completely go away until everything broke in real good.
 
Try this: pump up the brakes. Does it stay solid after they're pumped?

Now back up and stop. Does it need to be pumped up again before you get full pedal? Does it stay solid once you do though?

Pull forward. Same quiz. Does it take an extra pump?

If so, it can be pad knock back. My brake kit did this too. I snugged up my front wheel bearings some more and it helped, but didn't completely go away until everything broke in real good.

It stays solid until I let off the brake for a minute or so. Then next time I pump the brake it falls and catches tightly on the second pump of the brakes. So if I was driving I'd always have to pump the brakes 2x before they were solid.
 
Does it go soft after a couple minutes, but without moving the car? I mean don't even turn the steering wheel.

If it goes soft without any movement (rolling, driving, turning) then it's a problem in your brakes, probably a slow leak or internal leak of some sort. If it only happens after movement, then it's likely knock back.
 
Does it go soft after a couple minutes, but without moving the car? I mean don't even turn the steering wheel.

If it goes soft without any movement (rolling, driving, turning) then it's a problem in your brakes, probably a slow leak or internal leak of some sort. If it only happens after movement, then it's likely knock back.

Yep goes soft without even moving the car. I'm going to remove the crush washer tomorrow and give her another bleed and see what we come up with.
 
What happens when you drive it? When I re-did my brakes the brake pedal would keep going soft. I drove it twice and re-bled the brakes twice, and the pedal finally remained firm. My theory is that when you drive it, bubbles either form, or they break free from somewhere, and cause a soft pedal until you can get them all out of the system.
 
What happens when you drive it? When I re-did my brakes the brake pedal would keep going soft. I drove it twice and re-bled the brakes twice, and the pedal finally remained firm. My theory is that when you drive it, bubbles either form, or they break free from somewhere, and cause a soft pedal until you can get them all out of the system.

I didnt drive it after rebleeding it last night because the pedal was dropping. I'll remove the washer bleed and take it for a spin tonigh .
 
Ok so took my line from the MC off and replaced it with one with a loop-d-loop to match the other one, I also pulled the attachment to the prop valve off cleaned it and cleaned the threads inside the valve. Reattached everything and let's see what happens!

Whoop whoop, crossing my fingers for luck to finally come my way. This owning a mopar thing is what it must of felt like panning for gold back in the day. Rocks, rocks, rocks and... some more rocks then bam! You strike a bit of gold! Then back to the rocks for a while before hitting gold again.

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I may have also gotten a new radiator today. If everything goes right I'll have it within a week or 2 and man I'll be stoked!
 
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