Dartin for Divorce

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I also drained a bunch of transmission fluid and adjusted the lokar linkage some more, it seems to be adjusted exactly how the instructions say to adjust it.

Edit- last picture is how the linkage currently is. No slack in it at all.

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One thing to remember about the trans fluid level, when cool or not thoroughly circulated it can/will read high when at the proper level because you have an external cooler now and holds more fluid, I have been told that sitting with the car in park the trans won't warm that much, put it in neutral to let it warm. Some people make a new "cold" line on their dipstick to make it easy for a quick check. Once completely warm you should be able to read at the normal level

Im new to the kickdown thing on these mopars but it seems odd to me that it is what is causing problems, seems like you should be able to disconnect it completely and the trans should drive fine, just no kickdown. Im definitely gonna have to read more on that, all my crap is loose and out of adjustment. Im hoping its just your trans fluid level

aint life fun in the hole

your pictures are freaaking me out, things seem reversed
 
billsdartgt said:
One thing to remember about the trans fluid level, when cool or not thoroughly circulated it can/will read high when at the proper level because you have an external cooler now and holds more fluid, I have been told that sitting with the car in park the trans won't warm that much, put it in neutral to let it warm. Some people make a new "cold" line on their dipstick to make it easy for a quick check. Once completely warm you should be able to read at the normal level

Im new to the kickdown thing on these mopars but it seems odd to me that it is what is causing problems, seems like you should be able to disconnect it completely and the trans should drive fine, just no kickdown. Im definitely gonna have to read more on that, all my crap is loose and out of adjustment. Im hoping its just your trans fluid level

aint life fun in the hole

your pictures are freaaking me out, things seem reversed
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I was checking it in neutral. I think it was high, I also had an external trans cooler before putting this one on, this one is just newer and slightly bigger.

The lokar instructions say to open the throttle all the way. With throttle at carb opened all the way pull the slack out of the shifter cable and tighten the line at that point
 
"Im new to the kickdown thing on these mopars but it seems odd to me that it is what is causing problems, seems like you should be able to disconnect it completely and the trans should drive fine, just no kickdown. Im definitely gonna have to read more on that, all my crap is loose and out of adjustment."

If you drive it like that long, you will be rebuilding the transmission SOON. Unless you have installed a manual, or reverse manual valve body, a 904 or 727 absolutely has to have the throttle pressure linkage hooked up and adjusted correctly. When adjusted correctly, and under normal driving, part throttle conditions, the 1-2 shift should be at 18 mph, and the 2-3 shift at 28 mph. Hope this helps some.
 
@69_340_GTS Yes my photos were backwards because my phone getting light from the sun and you couldn't see anything, sorry about that. Here are new pictures that I just took!

@66fyssh and @JDMopar both great responses and awesome information.

Based on that article I should have the transmission kickdown lever at the point on which it first it first starts getting resistance from the internal spring.

I just did a little adjusting on the kickdown. I tightened the line down at the point at which the transmission kickdown lever is first starting to feel resistance. Here it is all setup. There is a little bit of slack in the line still, but I didnt want to pull the line to much harder and have extra resistance on the transmission lever.

Now when I pull the throttle wide open there is still no slack in the line, but the kickdown lever is starting at the correct spot.

There is a slight bit more slack in the throttle line, so I need to figure out how to get that adjusted a touch more.

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halfafish said:
So, not to be a horse's ***, but why not just drive it in reverse? Real men aren't concerned with forwards or backwards.
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That's how I got it back into the garage :lol:

I just want the car to work properly, as do we all right? I'm sure people are over me asking dumb questions all the time Lol. Maybe stay away from upgrading the car for a while..... or at least the stuff that's in the car ; )
 
It everything went together correctly the first time, this hobby wouldn't be fun...err challenging, lol.

Sure wish I could remember that when I'm trying to wrestle in a transmission with a regular floor jack. Lots of cuss words seems to help :D
 
66fyssh said:
It everything went together correctly the first time, this hobby wouldn't be fun...err challenging, lol.

Sure wish I could remember that when I'm trying to wrestle in a transmission with a regular floor jack. Lots of cuss words seems to help :D
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That's part of the reason I want to build the 727 over the 904... because it's already out of the car... I can continue to drive the car while doing the 727. Downside to the 727 is loss of 15-20hp and having to shorten the DS.
 
these are the things that help others like me, I did not know the need or importance of the kickdown connection, will help me when I get my car all back together.

Keep hanging in doc, you will get it figured out
 
I've yet to have a Lokar cable, and have always just had stock throttle pressure linkage. There is a difference in 2 barrel and 4 barrel linkage, so make sure you have the right one! I start by pushing the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage all the way back until it pushes the lever on the trans all the way back. Then check the carb to see if it will go to wide open throttle (engine off!) before it bottoms out on the throttle pressure linkage when IT is all the way back. Adjust the throttle pressure linkage from there, to make it not bind and keep the carb from reaching W.O.T. while at the same time letting the trans shift @ 18 and 28 mph during normal part throttle driving. Sometimes, it takes 3 or 4 times getting out and fiddling with it during test drives to get it right.
 
Got my new grommets - they are twist on grommets pcv grommets which allow you to run push on breathers and pcv valves. Only problem is they are 3/4in openings and the breather/pcv valve I got have 1.25in openings. Not a huge deal where a little razor blade and engineering couldn't overcome!

I went with matching speed master pcv valve and breather. I think it looks good! The breather is on back order so I'll have to be mismatch for a couple of weeks, no biggie. I'll have to keep breaking things so @70aarcuda keeps coming over to hang out!

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billsdartgt said:
can you drive yet? whats up with the kickdown
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I havent even had time to try. Since Sunday I've been going 100mph studying 2 semesters worth of pathology. It equates to about 3,000 PowerPoint slides.... it sucked..

Tomorrow we are supposed to do some more messing around with the tuning and the distributor. We also got a mechanical advance limiter kit, the FBO plate doesn't work on the Mallory Distributor. Summit sells the kit.

The kickdown is literally adjusted just like the directions say to do it. So I'll see if it drives tomorrow... let's cross our fingers.

Tony put some bad thoughts in my head with stroker kits and aluminum heads and I just barely missed out on a 4in stroker kit... apparently I should start driving the car sooner rather than later :lol:

Edit- i think a converter would be a more logical 1st purchase next as that would be the most economical and best bang for the buck for the build. Havent found one of those yet though.

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66fyssh said:
It everything went together correctly the first time, this hobby wouldn't be fun...err challenging, lol.

:D
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I understand this can also happen when too much time elapses between removal of one item and its replacement with another. it happens with me and faste
ners with increasing regularity.
 
2 Darts said:
I understand this can also happen when too much time elapses between removal of one item and its replacement with another. it happens with me and faste
ners with increasing regularity.
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Yea time can be a killer in keeping this in order. I didnt think it would be to long to do everything but with finals and family things have seemed to take a little longer. It's ok though, gives me something to do besides study right?!

Until the end I was super cautious with taking everything off. I put it in order on the side of the car, on a clean blanket, bagged every part/bolt up and even wrote the sizes of the bolts on the bags.

When I started rushing and getting flustered at the end is when I started misplacing things. I tend to have that problem.
 
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somethings different...can't quite put my finger on it...

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@kursplat wow thanks for posting that! Seeing how much different it looks since I first took got it. I think I've really done a lot to the car, even though sometimes it seems like it hasn't been that much.
 
You have a bad my friend! Stroker motors, high stall converters etc. I realize that all of those parts sound sexy and look cool on you build sheet breakdown. Honestly, how quick would you like this car to be?
 
DentalDart said:
When I started rushing and getting flustered at the end is when I started misplacing things. I tend to have that problem.
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This is so much fun, watching the youngsters in the crowd. Just wait Doc, soon enough you won't need to get rushed or flustered to misplace things. You can do it all on your own! All you have to do is set something down and it turns invisible! Ask me how I know this... :eek::eek::eek:
 
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