Diff gear recommendations

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Here's another thread to glean from.

 
Steve, remember where they talk about the tunnel being tight and cutting ribs off the transmission to make it fit, they're talking about an early A body, which yours is not. The lockup transmission will bolt into your car. You may have to do something with the drive shaft, I'm not sure.....but big whoop, right?
 
Thanks Rob, MUCH appreciated and a driveshaft like you said, "big whoop". That was included with the "plans".
Steve, remember where they talk about the tunnel being tight and cutting ribs off the transmission to make it fit, they're talking about an early A body, which yours is not. The lockup transmission will bolt into your car. You may have to do something with the drive shaft, I'm not sure.....but big whoop, right?
 
Yoohoooo rabbithole.... @roccodart440 care to chime in about OD trans info? If I'm spending $$ on a TC, which could mean a trans upgrade due to mine being orig 67 904, then I'm willing to listen to OD "stuff".
Fyi, I don't want to do any tunnel mods/cutting.
@TrailBeast
@65 Dartman
@str12-340
Thanks
Steve

Gear Venders Overdrive

It replaces the tailshaft of your transmission. My car didn't require any tunnel mods. They are rated for 2,000hp. You can set them to automatic, or control it manually. The manual option is great because you can also use 2nd gear plus overdrive through town, which for me is better than 3rd gear. I also use 2nd + OD when I race 1/8th mile. https://www.gearvendors.com

If you'd like to see what a vast difference an OD makes for you, check out this calculator and click the GVOD option. Speed/Tire/RPM calculator
 
My 340 FB FS came with 3:55 gears and they were perfect for all by long highway trips. I turned 13.48 @ 105.38 stock with 29" retread H70-14 tires. Cannot complain with launch but back then there was no 60 foot time measured. I had well over 350 runs on this car all in the mid 13's and never broke anything. So the factory 741 case was strong enough for my 727 but who knows with an 833.
 
I've set up a LOT of gears in my lifetime and so far, I've not seen a bit of difference in brands as far as gear noise. What I have seen is people who don't know how to properly set up gears leads to gear noise 100% of the time that I've seen. Usually, it's always incorrect pinion gear depth, because they don't know how to do it, or they just fling it in as is because they're lazy. Lots of times, I was able to cure gear noise be resetting the pinion depth correctly.
From the content and time of your reply, it is certain you were referring to my previous post. It is possible there is something out of whack in my housing that made gears more prone to whining, even with proper adjustment. The rear end shop tried readjusting the gears (which were originally installed by another well known gear shop), but the whine persisted. Those gears were brand new set from a well known NA supplier (was NOT from Strange). This shop does nothing but rear ends; probably about 4 per day, so that's over 750 per year. The owner said the only gears that are always good come from a Japanese company, but they don't make gears for our cars. He said new NA made gears are hit and miss, and that gears from Strange are usually OK. He suggested putting in a set of OE Spicer gears he had sitting on his back shelf, and the whine went away. He didn't charge me for the Spicer gears.
 
From the content and time of your reply, it is certain you were referring to my previous post. It is possible there is something out of whack in my housing that made gears more prone to whining, even with proper adjustment. The rear end shop tried readjusting the gears (which were originally installed by another well known gear shop), but the whine persisted. Those gears were brand new set from a well known NA supplier (was NOT from Strange). This shop does nothing but rear ends; probably about 4 per day, so that's over 750 per year. The owner said the only gears that are always good come from a Japanese company, but they don't make gears for our cars. He said new NA made gears are hit and miss, and that gears from Strange are usually OK. He suggested putting in a set of OE Spicer gears he had sitting on his back shelf, and the whine went away. He didn't charge me for the Spicer gears.
Well you can think that if you want, but when I reply TO someone, I include their quote. In fact, I didn't even see that post you're referring to and still have not, because yes, I am indeed just that lazy not to scroll back.
 
OK, so the cam card calls for 3.91-4.10 gearing...is there a reason why you think that is not a recommendation you should pursue?

I say this b/c it's about the 'combo', right?

Had a hydraulic flat tappet 238/244 @108 LSA in my 360 motor, 4K RPM Dynamic converter and 3.91 gears. Felt pretty good, but it also felt "wanting" more gear. Went to 4.10 gearing, the motor LOVED it!

I am now running a hydraulic roller cam 240/248 @112 LSA but ground 4 deg. advanced, in a W2 408 stroker build, rest of the combo is the same....this thing blows my mind each time I take it out!

Gearing for me was the critical ingredient to get to the right result, as it is not just about the WOT converter flash, but street manners as well, and I need a responsive throttle to make that work.
 
True. As I mentioned I probably over cammed it, but I'll have to live with that. I remember reading cam card when I linked it and saw the recommended gearing. 2nd one I've over cammed. I'm debating how I'm going to tackle this...OD trans...converter...gearing...where's my money gun??
Thanks.
OK, so the cam card calls for 3.91-4.10 gearing...is there a reason why you think that is not a recommendation you should pursue?

I say this b/c it's about the 'combo', right?

Had a hydraulic flat tappet 238/244 @108 LSA in my 360 motor, 4K RPM Dynamic converter and 3.91 gears. Felt pretty good, but it also felt "wanting" more gear. Went to 4.10 gearing, the motor LOVED it!

I am now running a hydraulic roller cam 240/248 @112 LSA but ground 4 deg. advanced, in a W2 408 stroker build, rest of the combo is the same....this thing blows my mind each time I take it out!

Gearing for me was the critical ingredient to get to the right result, as it is not just about the WOT converter flash, but street manners as well, and I need a responsive throttle to make that work.

cash-canon-make-it-rain.gif
 
True. As I mentioned I probably over cammed it, but I'll have to live with that. I remember reading cam card when I linked it and saw the recommended gearing. 2nd one I've over cammed. I'm debating how I'm going to tackle this...OD trans...converter...gearing...where's my money gun??
Thanks.


View attachment 1716318167

Maybe this guy could float you a loan.

IMG_20241021_212956.gif
 
True. As I mentioned I probably over cammed it, but I'll have to live with that. I remember reading cam card when I linked it and saw the recommended gearing. 2nd one I've over cammed. I'm debating how I'm going to tackle this...OD trans...converter...gearing...where's my money gun??
Thanks.


View attachment 1716318167
I've been there a couple of times myself :BangHead:
giphy.gif
 
True. As I mentioned I probably over cammed it, but I'll have to live with that. I remember reading cam card when I linked it and saw the recommended gearing. 2nd one I've over cammed. I'm debating how I'm going to tackle this...OD trans...converter...gearing...where's my money gun??

Well, I would say pretty much the standard 'go-to' for dealing with a too large of a cam is to advance it. You could do more than just 2-4 deg...just watch your CR, plug the optional advance numbers into a dynamic CR calculator and stay within the bounds of what your fuel will allow you to run.

Having said that, I would recommend running with at least a 3.91 gear. That motor, even once the converter lets it flash needs to be able to continue to climb the RPMs fast, and gearing is what will get you there.
 
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