Dots at 6 and 12 but rotor not in right place.

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Snake

Mopar Nut
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Well I got the 360 apart as far as i want to go.I lined the Dots up at 6 and 12 balincer at zero piston at TDC pop the dist cap rotor not were it should be.it ran just fine,so am I right to think someone put the Dist gear in wrong spot.I plan on a new cam so thats when I will put that gear in wright.any thoughts.

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Pull the dist/oil pump drive and make it point towards #1 cylinder. The rotor will then line up where you want it.

It's a little trial and error to get the engagement point correct. Maybe watch when you pull it out to see how far you need to clock it so the slot ends up in the right spot
 
When the dots are at 6 and 12, the engine is at #6 tdc comp sroke. You need one revolution of the crank to bring it to #1 tdc comp stroke. Then the dots will be at 12 and 12.
 
What I always thought they had to be at 6 and 12 the crank gear at 12 and the cam gear at 6 # 1 piston at TDC now I am confuesed.any pics of how you all have done it.I have to admit its been a wile since I did a cam change.
 
That works fine if you are working on a Blowtie. Mopars need the crank dot at 12 and the cam dot at 12 just like redfastback said.
 
Hate to say it but......6 and 12 and re aim the rotor button,with the crank at 12 and the cam at 6 both valves will be closed and the rotor should point at #1 at this point,but I sure could be wrong!!!!
 
That works fine if you are working on a Blowtie. Mopars need the crank dot at 12 and the cam dot at 12 just like redfastback said.

'Zactly!! You can install the cam with the dots at 6 and 12 to make life easier on yourself, but the distributor is installed with the dots at 12 and 12.
 
It's fine as far as the gears go. just take the motor and get everything else set up like valvetrain, balancer, etc. then last before you put the intake on crank the motor over till you feel compression on number 1, then just line up the balancer to the timing mark about where you want you initial to be. now like crackedback said just put the drive gear in where it lines the distributor on to fire #1. remenber the crank is 2 turns to 1 cam turn so you are timed just at a different point of the 360 degrees of rotation.
 
One of the main reasons that they put it at 6/12, because it's easier to line up the dots. After you put it on you then spin the engine 1 full revolution and you will be at #1 tdc. Drop the int shaft and distributor and point it at #1 intake bolt.

Remember, #6 is 1/2 way thru the firing cycle.
 
Ford and GM manuals will show both dots at 12 o'clock position leaving you to strike an imaginary center line. Chrysler put the 2 dots together in the center so it can be done in the dark. LOL
Either way wont bend valves though. The distributer will be right or 1/2 round wrong if its driver was installed correctly.
 
One of the main reasons that they put it at 6/12, because it's easier to line up the dots. After you put it on you then spin the engine 1 full revolution and you will be at #1 tdc. Drop the int shaft and distributor and point it at #1 intake bolt.

Remember, #6 is 1/2 way thru the firing cycle.

I was waiting for someone to point that out. This is the main reason,less chance of getting it a tooth off.
 
If you line up the dots at 12 & 6 will it make any difference on how your engine runs? Performance??
 
If you line up the dots at 12 & 6 will it make any difference on how your engine runs? Performance??

No, the crank turns 2 times to the cams one, on one revolution the dots are 6 and 12 and cylinder number 6 fires on the second revolution the dots are 12 and 12, number one cylinder fires.
 
you will be 180 out if you drop it in at 12 and 6. making you at the compression stroke on#6
 
wheni put mine together i always have the dots looking at each other (dot to dot) i thought thats is the compression stroke for # 1 at tdc
 
as noted above.... cam at 6 and crank at 12 is number 6 firing...

if you think it is number 1 ....put it together and watch it flame out of the carb...then move the distributor 180 and it will run...
 
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