Dyno #'s with Trickflow Heads

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I don't like 145 lbs of seat pressure for a street cam
is that a solid lifter- that helps
what's the seat timing?
 
I’m kinda sold on EDM lifters after running my small block with them over the last 4 years with a 650 lift cam. I can’t wait to really check it over soon when I tear it down for rebuild.
 
Honestly I am not the guy to ask on details of cam profiles. Although I have a decent knowledge of engine building you should have a pro like Jones or Bullet etc. design or recommend a profile that suits your build/needs.
That cam seems to be more of a drag race cam than a dual purpose grind. Lots of duration and 108 cl ....
 
This has probably been the best post yet about these Heads. The OP is not overly excited yet about the purchase but speed cost as we all know so rip that motor out the car and check your Static timing, talk to whomever is your flavor for a cam (Porter racing heads if it were me) and make sure you have a sealed motor. Airgap would be in order for this one since it's a street bruiser and the right converter. That's just a quick outside the box assessment....

OOTB the box and on the car. Now imagine spending a couple grand on a set of bare W-5's and taking them to the scrap yard? Sorry, this is the best deal out there for small block mopar right now for most people. I wouldn't trust a set of used W2's unless I had carnal knowledge of them and a set of Eddy's will work except you may as well send them right over to the machine shop and porter to get them near the TF's OOTB.

But interacting with your kids is #1. The car stuff can wait. Your a lucky man to have them in your life.....

Good luck OP,
JW
 
brsmustng99 said:
Mbaird, how does this solid flat tappet cam look from hughes Engines?
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That’s quiet a cam for a 340, if you wanted to add some compression, a good single plane intake and some gears to wind it up I’d say it would run good.

I ran a older Hughes fs in my 408. The cam was 260/264 @ .050 with .62?/.64? lift IIRC. The engine had ported Edelbrocks that flowed in the mid 290’s, 10.8-1. It ran 6.57 @ 104 shifting at 6400 in a 3260# 69 Dart.

I ran the same heads on a 340 with a Hughes hydraulic, 237/242 @ .050, the lift was a little under .600”. It was 11.4-1 and ran 7.24 @ 94 and change in the Dart. Also shifter at 6400,I tried more and less rpm’s with both engines and 6400 was what they liked.

Call Porter and pick his brain on the cam, he won’t steer you wrong.
 
justinp61 said:
That’s quiet a cam for a 340, if you wanted to add some compression, a good single plane intake and some gears to wind it up I’d say it would run good.

I ran a older Hughes fs in my 408. The cam was 260/264 @ .050 with .62?/.64? lift IIRC. The engine had ported Edelbrocks that flowed in the mid 290’s, 10.8-1. It ran 6.57 @ 104 shifting at 6400 in a 3260# 69 Dart.

I ran the same heads on a 340 with a Hughes hydraulic, 237/242 @ .050, the lift was a little under .600”. It was 11.4-1 and ran 7.24 @ 94 and change in the Dart. Also shifter at 6400,I tried more and less rpm’s with both engines and 6400 was what they liked.

Call Porter and pick his brain on the cam, he won’t steer you wrong.
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Who is Porter??
 
In addition to the high spring pressure IDK about 108 for his build
but 108 is meaningless if you don't know the seat timing
 
Not to be the voice of gloom and doom but......
Stock type rebuild on a 340, 3.91’s, 3500 stall, big heads.
This is not a combo crying for a huge cam.

For one thing, those pistons don’t have valve pockets that are all that “big cam” friendly.

I’d put a modest solid cam in it, update the manifold to the A/G....... and just drive it while saving for a stroker kit.
Or just drive it and do the whole shebang all at once.

I dont see any easy 25hp+ silver bullets for that combo(unless there were some valvetrain stability issues that got solved by swapping to a solid lifter cam).
The “big” cam(5460) will likely require flycutting the pistons.
Then swap to a Victor intake......along with the required increase in stall to make those two new pieces work.

It’ll lose a bunch of driveability....... to eek out some power from 5500 up.

If I were picking from the Hughes lineup...... considering the entire combo....... I’d be leaning more towards something like the 3842 cam.
“Maybe” the next one up if you’re okay with losing some low end grunt.
 
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Or just drive it for 6 months and see how you like it...with 300 rwhp the car will likely go 12’s which is a fun ride in one of these old cars...
 
The mopar .528 solid is a good stick that will run well in a stocker 340. I think I put mine in at about 107-108 ICL.

Something similar will do a nice job. Not too much lift or duration after lash.

I'd smack it with a 100 shot and go! :D
 
OP had a set of upgraded and ported EQ’s from IMM, not ootb heads. It’s safe to assume the original 1.92” intakes were changed to 2.02” as well as receiving a professional port job it is clear. Guy swapped to ootb Trick Flows in hopes of marked improvement and reports disappointment with the negligible improvements in horsepower or torque. He never went into detail about street manners though. Wonder how a set of ootb standard 1.92” intake EQ’s would compare to ootb Trick Flows. You have to Add up the cost of the box stock EQ’s, all the valvetrain components and the professional porting and set up and then compare to the ootb TF cost. Proper perspective lost in this thread for sure, mostly by the vanishing OP:rolleyes:
 
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I changed my home ported edelbrock heads on my 410 to trick flows but also changed my cam. Went from a hughes 234/238 @ 50 with 530? lift on a 110 lobe sep to a custom Howards 237/243 @ 50 with 610 lift and 112 lobe sep. used to make 392rwhp ,now makes 425rwhp. Revs were all done by 5800 before but now revs cleanly to 6400.Car behaves much nicer with this cam and almost feels like I have put a smaller cam in it. Last time at the track I ran 11.5 @119 mph but have not been to the track with this set up yet but it feels faster on the road as it revs real clean now and brakes into wheelspin any time you nail it in second gear(5 speed manual)
 
James Clews said:
I changed my home ported edelbrock heads on my 410 to trick flows but also changed my cam. Went from a hughes 234/238 @ 50 with 530? lift on a 110 lobe sep to a custom Howards 237/243 @ 50 with 610 lift and 112 lobe sep. used to make 392rwhp ,now makes 425rwhp. Revs were all done by 5800 before but now revs cleanly to 6400.Car behaves much nicer with this cam and almost feels like I have put a smaller cam in it. Last time at the track I ran 11.5 @119 mph but have not been to the track with this set up yet but it feels faster on the road as it revs real clean now and brakes into wheelspin any time you nail it in second gear(5 speed manual)
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The 112 LSA is why the cam feels “ smaller” wider is going to be less lumpy.
Howards makes all of Hughes cams. Your new cam has a ton more lift. Would have been interesting to see what your eddies would have been like with having more lift.
How much compression do you have?
I have found wide LSA stuff when not using power adders or high compression to be a shot of novocaine to 60 foot times.
Really numb it down. May not see it on a dyno, but will at the track.
 
I have 11/1 comp and it is a 5 speed manual! Yes I requested a wider lobe sep to calm it down a bit because it is a manual and I am 66 years old so wanted a nice car to drive. Yes the chassis dyno shows a drop in torque but it doesn't feel like it on the road,just smoother and better behaved. Are you saying my sixty foots will blow out? Remember I have a manual and best results before were dropping the clutch at a low twelve to fifteen hundred revs but I can experiment and drop the clutch at a much higher revs to make use of the power band in the cam.
 
James Clews said:
I have 11/1 comp and it is a 5 speed manual! Yes I requested a wider lobe sep to calm it down a bit because it is a manual and I am 66 years old so wanted a nice car to drive. Yes the chassis dyno shows a drop in torque but it doesn't feel like it on the road,just smoother and better behaved. Are you saying my sixty foots will blow out? Remember I have a manual and best results before were dropping the clutch at a low twelve to fifteen hundred revs but I can experiment and drop the clutch at a much higher revs to make use of the power band in the cam.
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when it comes to a stick, i am clueless what it will do.
I do know with a 5k convertor, it left like a dog compared to the 107 cam i got talked into pulling out for the 112.
Motor was a stroker with 11.5 ish compression.
Moral of the story, wide LSA likes tons of compression and extra convertor on a typical non elite headed motor. It typically shows up in the 60 foot.
 
gzig5 said:
Not if you aren't going to take advantage of the additional potential provided by the new heads. I don't think it's fair to disparage the TF heads which were replacing a very good head to begin with. Considering the IMM EQ head isn't available anymore, there aren't too many options available for something in that performance range ready to go out of the box. What's the next best iron head? The SM heads have potential but need to be loved on by someone that knows what they are doing. Good head porters aren't a dime a dozen. Around here I haven't found one that has a flow bench, everyone is just going by eye. So now you have another $100+ in shipping them around to make sure you get a good job.
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Quality machine shops are getting very hard to find !!
 
B3422w5 said:
when it comes to a stick, i am clueless what it will do.
I do know with a 5k convertor, it left like a dog compared to the 107 cam i got talked into pulling out for the 112.
Motor was a stroker with 11.5 ish compression.
Moral of the story, wide LSA likes tons of compression and extra convertor on a typical non elite headed motor. It typically shows up in the 60 foot.
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I'm curious what the 60' times were and what the change was. Mine short times in the 1.50's. I'm pretty happy with that for a heavy car on street tires. I run a 4,000 convertor. technically I should be running a 5,000 given the TQ RPM but it's 99% a street car.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'm curious what the 60' times were and what the change was. Mine short times in the 1.50's. I'm pretty happy with that for a heavy car on street tires. I run a 4,000 convertor. technically I should be running a 5,000 given the TQ RPM but it's 99% a street car.
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That combo was around 1.40/1.41. 3350 pounds, leafs.
Couple slower with the dominator. Only 11.5 ish compression, flat tappet cam, W5’s
When i broke it, went to roller cam, and 13 to 1 compression, new shortblock. went 1.34 with the dominator on leafs. Never used another carb on that new combo
 
I would love to put my 96 dakota sport on a chassie Dyno, to see what its putting to the ground. I have a 2000 360 magnum thats pretty much stock, stock bore block, stock rods and stock crank, except the pistons. Have the KB107 pistons. Has a comp 550 lift sold cam. I think its 260 at 0.050 and is 594 lift with 1.6 roller rockers. Out of the box Trick flow heads. Indy single plane intake. Holley 800DP carb, hooker 1-5/8 headers. 904 transmission, 8 inch 5600 stall. 430 gears , 28x9x15 slicks. I am guessing the dakota weighes 3400 with me in it. Best pass so far has been a spinning 11.24 at 116 in the 1/4 and 7.15 at 96 in the 1/8. I need to send the converter off and get it redone for my set up. I think the truck has some low 11 in it. I think my best 60 foot was a 1.53. I havent got to do much tuning on the caltracs yet. I am right at 11.1 compression and race it on 93 pump gas. I havent decide yet if I am going to build a magnum based 426 with 13.5.1 compression and my trickflow heads or build a 13.5.1 5.7 hemi stroked to 392. I have everything to build the magnum 426 except the stroker kit. The hemi I only have a set of pistons and a set of eagle heads. Man decisions decisions lol
 
roccodart440 said:
I'm curious what the 60' times were and what the change was. Mine short times in the 1.50's. I'm pretty happy with that for a heavy car on street tires. I run a 4,000 convertor. technically I should be running a 5,000 given the TQ RPM but it's 99% a street car.
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Good 5k convertor wont have any negatives on the street compared to what you have. But the car will be faster
 
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