Ebay GT45 + 5.9 Magnum + E85 blow thru

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Well, now don't shoot me, but depending on how much heat ever look into adding heat defusers? I know it's kinda ricey but they do work. was thinking of having a company down here make some from aluminum and have them welded onto the stock hood of my 67, after its up and running and seeing how hot it gets. something along the lines of this pic

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subcom said:
Dead in the water. Fitech unit went back for an RMA. ECU broke apparently. Hope to get it back in time for TNT this Friday. The only thing I've done to the car is take off the hotside and repaint and wrap it to try and get under hood temps under control.
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Was it a freak accident, or was it a mechanical failure on the unit itself? I've heard Fitech can be hard to reach and deal with on warranty claims.
 
73golddusterkid said:
Was it a freak accident, or was it a mechanical failure on the unit itself? I've heard Fitech can be hard to reach and deal with on warranty claims.
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Failure on the unit itself. The ECU failed apparently and had to be replaced at FiTech. Fortunately I was at home and not broken down on the side of the road. I got the unit back and am now working through a couple of other, less major, issues with it including a binding throttle linkage and a screen that goes grey on the handheld.
 
subcom said:
Failure on the unit itself. The ECU failed apparently and had to be replaced at FiTech. Fortunately I was at home and not broken down on the side of the road. I got the unit back and am now working through a couple of other, less major, issues with it including a binding throttle linkage and a screen that goes grey on the handheld.
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Good to hear, I definitely like your build and look forward to seeing your progress!
 
Next step is to introduce timing control. I've had a helluva time trying to get E85 to run good at idle and off-idle and just figured out the other day I'm not giving it enough timing at idle which was causing a huge bog/flooding condition when going off idle. I bumped up the timing to 18* at idle on my HEI ready-to-run distro and it's a whole new beast! Problem is, that puts me at close to 40* total timing when the mechanical advance kicks in. That will be way too much under boost. So, I'm looking at converting an old 2 wire distributor I had lying around to a locked advance, installing the old ballast and coil and trying to control the timing from the Fitech. We'll see how it goes.
 
subcom said:
Next step is to introduce timing control. I've had a helluva time trying to get E85 to run good at idle and off-idle and just figured out the other day I'm not giving it enough timing at idle which was causing a huge bog/flooding condition when going off idle. I bumped up the timing to 18* at idle on my HEI ready-to-run distro and it's a whole new beast! Problem is, that puts me at close to 40* total timing when the mechanical advance kicks in. That will be way too much under boost. So, I'm looking at converting an old 2 wire distributor I had lying around to a locked advance, installing the old ballast and coil and trying to control the timing from the Fitech. We'll see how it goes.
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Ordered my distributor from Johnny at Pace today. Played a little more with the HEI and the timing gun and this engine definitely wants 18* at idle. Throttle response with the Fitech is super crisp. I even leaned out the AFR to gasoline ranges at 14.x and the E85 seems comfortable there. Can't wait to have the flexibility of being able to pull timing under boost. I'll feel much more confidant turning up the pressure.
 
Posted this over in the fuel section. Got the new distributor installed and base timing clocked in at 15*. The distributor works great. Took it for a run last night and got into boost and the FiTech unit held the timing exactly where it was indicated to be. The engine is much more responsive when cold, starts-up great and the off idle bog is gone from the lack of not enough timing.
 
Popped the turbo fuse last night. Blew the head gasket on 4 cylinders. The crankcase pressure pushed the front of the pan gasket out. Bottom end looks fine though so far.


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Time for cometics, studs, and more boost! Glad to see it's not hurt too bad! Looks like it was running pretty good before it went boom.
 
T56MaxTorq said:
What head bolts and gasket are you using??
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I'm running ARP bolts, not studs and I believe they were Mr. Gasket 0.028 compressed gaskets to increase the compression. But standard type gaskets. I've had some issues with this motor running hot and hitting upwards towards 215-220 on a couple of ocassions. I believe the gaskets were a little weak already from that. I blew #4 on the left bank and #1,5,6 on the right. Crazy.
 
subcom said:
Got crankcase pressure?
View attachment 1715008054
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Have you thought about running a vacuum pump to get rid of that crankcase pressure? I bet in a setup like your's with the amount of cylinder pressure you are making and the stock bottom end it will help A LOT with ring seal and such. Probably worth a couple dozen horse on a boosted application.
 
Lustle said:
Have you thought about running a vacuum pump to get rid of that crankcase pressure? I bet in a setup like your's with the amount of cylinder pressure you are making and the stock bottom end it will help A LOT with ring seal and such. Probably worth a couple dozen horse on a boosted application.
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I have actually, just haven't put a ton of thought into it.
I currently have a catch can that is fed from the top of both valve covers. I have standard PCVs that I removed the check valve from so they are continuously wide open.
 
V8-valiant said:
Time for cometics, studs, and more boost! Glad to see it's not hurt too bad! Looks like it was running pretty good before it went boom.
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A buddy at the track has had similar blown gasket issues on both his NA and nitrous fed SBMs. Seems to be common on small block Mopars.

What thickness Cometics would you guys recommend. I'm thinking about something a little thicker then what I had, maybe 0.030 compressed. Or should I go thicker?
 
Thicker is better with boost. I'm also running arp bolts but a "high-perf" felpro .039" @ 11 lbs. Mopar doesn't seal so well only due the fact that there is only 4 bolt holes per cylinder. I retorqued my head bolts after a few heat cycles and they tightened up slightly.

Overheating is a problem since there is so many hot pipes and so much more power. A scooped hood and wrapped pipes help.

That pan seal only popped from the head gaskets bleeding compression into the system.
 
T56MaxTorq said:
Thicker is better with boost. I'm also running arp bolts but a "high-perf" felpro .039" @ 11 lbs. Mopar doesn't seal so well only due the fact that there is only 4 bolt holes per cylinder. I retorqued my head bolts after a few heat cycles and they tightened up slightly.

Overheating is a problem since there is so many hot pipes and so much more power. A scooped hood and wrapped pipes help.

That pan seal only popped from the head gaskets bleeding compression into the system.
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Thanks! Is that the Felpro #1008 you are running?
 
I run the #1008 with 12.1 compression. It does help to do 2 hot torques after the furst run in. Im not boosted, but my 2cents lol
 
Johnny Pace said:
SO how much boost was this?lol We have a 318 that i'm thinking about "testing" lol
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Go for it! I forgot to log my run on the Fitech but typically I never go over 7psi. Just use better head gaskets then I did. I still need to pull the motor and pan but the bottom end appears to be fine.
 
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