Well I talk to you tommorow after I see how and what your installing . Check for straightness as I explained also.Steve
Edelbrock 1406 whistling
- Thread starter Ghostsoldier
- Start date
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65Val
Average Length Member
I say again...this is THE adapter plate and gasket you need to mount your square-bore carb to the dual-bore intake. I have done this....AND IT WORKS!!! Edel. supplies this plate WITH a new manifold just for this application.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Bobs your uncle, no Deans my uncle.
65Val
Average Length Member
...yes...and the ede performer has a spread-bore style flange.
So why would edel supply this plate with a new intake if it wasnt necessary???? Hmmm...?
No. He's installing a SQUARE BORE carburetor on a SPREAD BORE manifold. He certainly does need an adapter plate. Those spread bore bulges will forever leak unless he uses the plate mentioned. Been there done that. Been doin this stuff thirty years and 65Val is right on the money.
65Val
Average Length Member
Thanks SS. At least there's one other person here that's "been there, done that"!
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Rhubarb is good in the morning.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
I have that intake AND that carb and I did not have to use an adapter or anything.....no leaks or whistles or anything. I even pulled my old eddy carb off when I bought a brand new 1406 and i took a good look at the gasket and it was sealed up great all around the intake side aswell as the carb side.
anyhow....my suggestion is....if your getting a leak around the intake to carb mating surface that is allowing it to suck air..... I am wondering if maybe you ran it hot one day and shut the engine off and allowed it to heat soak the aluminum of either the carb or the intake?
its a slim chance but there is a chance none the less.
I suggest removing to carb.....stuffing a couple rags in the opening of your intake. Then take a flat chunk of wood or whatever you can get your hands on .....wrap some sand paper around it (im not talking like 60 grit here.....just something to leave a guide line for you like some 320 or 400) ....just scuff the mounting surface of the intake.
if your intake is slightly warped and allowing air to be sucked in you will notice a spot or spots that do not have sanding marks on them.
if this is the case....I personally would sand a bit more until it was flattened out. .....or you could have it professionally done, or buy a new intake.
also check the carburetors mounting surface the same way.
and remember to remove the rags from the intake opening prior to reinstalling your carburetor lol
anyhow....my suggestion is....if your getting a leak around the intake to carb mating surface that is allowing it to suck air..... I am wondering if maybe you ran it hot one day and shut the engine off and allowed it to heat soak the aluminum of either the carb or the intake?
its a slim chance but there is a chance none the less.
I suggest removing to carb.....stuffing a couple rags in the opening of your intake. Then take a flat chunk of wood or whatever you can get your hands on .....wrap some sand paper around it (im not talking like 60 grit here.....just something to leave a guide line for you like some 320 or 400) ....just scuff the mounting surface of the intake.
if your intake is slightly warped and allowing air to be sucked in you will notice a spot or spots that do not have sanding marks on them.
if this is the case....I personally would sand a bit more until it was flattened out. .....or you could have it professionally done, or buy a new intake.
also check the carburetors mounting surface the same way.
and remember to remove the rags from the intake opening prior to reinstalling your carburetor lol
These intakes are made for multipurpose carb use. That is why the carb flange is so thin. Not all castings come out the same. yes the machined surface looks close between all of them but the width of the flange differs. I have seen strip dominators with the same issues. It is more convenient for the manufacture to make all of the intakes the same and offer a plate,this allows them to make these intakes with the same flanges for different carbs. This also alows for greater tolerances of the width of the flange for QC. This is the nature of these intakes its always been and always will be. They are cheap multipurpose intakes. and is the reason for all of the different holes they come with. The better intakes you usually need to drill a hole if you need one, or have the flange machined or die ground for fittment. But the better intakes are for those who know how and have the equipment to do so. A piece of wood is a good straight edge for wood working, spreading puddy, or a butcher block, but not for metal. all machinist cringe when they here this. The house hold item to use is a piece of milled marble or granite cut out of an old counter or sink, or just a thick piece of glass. The proper tool is a machined ground straight edge and a feelers guage. the quickest is a piece of paper between the two surfaces being mated. The best is a quick cut for straightness on a surface grinder. After this said i am sure he will find his problem with some help. And when he does he will, or all of us will be asking ourselves why didn't he or we think of that. Isn't it always the case , what is wrong is always staring us in the face and we never see it because its to easy.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
I didn't mean that he should attempt milling his intake down himself with a piece of wood and some sand paper.
what I was getting at was doing it just enough to leave sand marks in the aluminum so he can see if there are any high or low spots.
then if so, he could have it professionally straightened out or invest in a new intake or if he wanted to....he COULD continue sanding until it was flat.
might not be the best option if that is the case....but an option.
what I was getting at was doing it just enough to leave sand marks in the aluminum so he can see if there are any high or low spots.
then if so, he could have it professionally straightened out or invest in a new intake or if he wanted to....he COULD continue sanding until it was flat.
might not be the best option if that is the case....but an option.
DD72 you have a PM.
mr.318
Well-Known Member
I think your looking in the wrong place,I kept thinking i had a air leak with my new eld.carb on my 318.After changing gaskets and whistleing and driving me crazy,I found that stepping up to the next size mertering rods the whistle is gone
Ghostsoldier
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OK fellas, let me try to catch up here....
First.....to answer Dusterdude's question: no, I have never run the car hot...it ran fine for the longest time, until this started happening.
Second.....Steve, this is what I'm running, in this order (my son wanted yellow valve covers...don't ask, lol):
This is the stack....
Here's what happened when I tried the paper trick:
Under the front of the carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the driver's side: couldn't pull it out
Under the rear of carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the pass side of the carb: pulled out like it was oiled
Hmmmm....so, I grabbed the spare 1406 and tried the same thing, and got the exact same results.
Then, I took a steel rule and placed it across the intake holes, pulled it slowly, and it drags/scrapes across all 3 surfaces evenly (both sides and the center divider)...plus, it does not 'rock' in any spot when I move it.
One question, though: I noticed in my photos that I have the carb studs located in the inboard holes...would it make a better seal if I moved them to the outer set of holes on the manifold?
Rob
First.....to answer Dusterdude's question: no, I have never run the car hot...it ran fine for the longest time, until this started happening.
Second.....Steve, this is what I'm running, in this order (my son wanted yellow valve covers...don't ask, lol):
This is the stack....
Here's what happened when I tried the paper trick:
Under the front of the carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the driver's side: couldn't pull it out
Under the rear of carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the pass side of the carb: pulled out like it was oiled
Hmmmm....so, I grabbed the spare 1406 and tried the same thing, and got the exact same results.
Then, I took a steel rule and placed it across the intake holes, pulled it slowly, and it drags/scrapes across all 3 surfaces evenly (both sides and the center divider)...plus, it does not 'rock' in any spot when I move it.
One question, though: I noticed in my photos that I have the carb studs located in the inboard holes...would it make a better seal if I moved them to the outer set of holes on the manifold?
Rob
65Val
Average Length Member
OK fellas, let me try to catch up here....
First.....to answer Dusterdude's question: no, I have never run the car hot...it ran fine for the longest time, until this started happening.
Second.....Steve, this is what I'm running, in this order (my son wanted yellow valve covers...don't ask, lol):
This is the stack....
Here's what happened when I tried the paper trick:
Under the front of the carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the driver's side: couldn't pull it out
Under the rear of carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the pass side of the carb: pulled out like it was oiled
Hmmmm....so, I grabbed the spare 1406 and tried the same thing, and got the exact same results.
Then, I took a steel rule and placed it across the intake holes, pulled it slowly, and it drags/scrapes across all 3 surfaces evenly (both sides and the center divider)...plus, it does not 'rock' in any spot when I move it.
One question, though: I noticed in my photos that I have the carb studs located in the inboard holes...would it make a better seal if I moved them to the outer set of holes on the manifold?
Rob
Rob...Get new gaskets first.....then flip the "Stack" over....spreadbore gasket on the manifold first, then the plate, then the square-bore gasket....and, yes, move the studs to the outer holes.
Don't "reef" on the carb stud nuts...thats a good way to crack the carb base.....should seal with them just snug+.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
x2,you have your gaskets flip flopped.
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
Gaskets are in wrong order. Obvious fix there. BUT, while you have it apart, take a steel ruler and make the carb base itself isn't warped. If somebody has either over-torqued or dropped the carb it may be warped.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
So when he moves the studs to the outer holes, how does the spread bore gasket fit
mr. Been there done that ?
Arent the studs going to be to wide for the gasket ?
Man.....this is getting good.
mr. Been there done that ?
Arent the studs going to be to wide for the gasket ?
Man.....this is getting good.
65Val
Average Length Member
The plate will hold it down. Picture a Holley carb on there...it doesn't have "inner holes"....(waiting for Johnny's next smart-*** question)
He can leave the studs if he wants.
Name-calling doesn't help, Mr Dart!
camd64
Remember Landy
Could be a big problem from the get-go is you did over torque it and warped the carb. base.
Ghostsoldier
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Only this previous time, cam....all the other other times, I just snugged them up. 8-)
Looks like I'll be flippin' the (new) gaskets and trying it again this afternoon...;)
Rob
Yes....the gaskets are in the wrong position.....but it looks like in the pic to ME that that driver's side gasket is not sealing good AT ALL. In that pic where the square flange gasket is against the manifold. Look at the perimeter around that driver's side. there's almost no indention of a seal at all. That's where it's leakin, too, I promise you. It also does not look like it favors one corner or the other. If it was me, I would inspect that side real close. Looks like somethin over there is holding that side of the carburetor off the manifold.
There is your leak right there. And it's my guess that it ain't gonna make a rat's butt which gaskets you put where. You need to find what's causing the carburetor not to tighten down against the manifold.
Ghostsoldier
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Latest heads up, fellas.
First, the studs won't go on the outer holes, because the spreadbore gasket won't fit anything but the inner holes (bingo on that call, JD).
Second, I bought new gaskets, flipped the stack to the correct position (manifold-spreadbore gasket-steel plate-squarebore gasket), and dropped the carb on. It does not rock on the stack, and a paper strip would not pull out, either.
I tightened (snugged) it down, hooked it up, started the car, and it REALLY ran like ****, worse than before. It even backfired several times through the carb.
So, I said f*ck it, and pulled it all off. I put the old, original Edelbrock gasket back on (flipped, of course), and put it all back together. Now, it runs crappy like before, and still has that low-grade whistle. Sprayed carb cleaner at the base again, and the leaks are in the front. pass side and some of the rear base...none on driver's side.
I'm thinking of buying a new, thick Ede gasket off line (like the one on it now), and see if it makes any difference.
I'm starting to feel like all this **** isn't worth it, and should go out and buy a Chevy.
Rob
First, the studs won't go on the outer holes, because the spreadbore gasket won't fit anything but the inner holes (bingo on that call, JD).
Second, I bought new gaskets, flipped the stack to the correct position (manifold-spreadbore gasket-steel plate-squarebore gasket), and dropped the carb on. It does not rock on the stack, and a paper strip would not pull out, either.
I tightened (snugged) it down, hooked it up, started the car, and it REALLY ran like ****, worse than before. It even backfired several times through the carb.
So, I said f*ck it, and pulled it all off. I put the old, original Edelbrock gasket back on (flipped, of course), and put it all back together. Now, it runs crappy like before, and still has that low-grade whistle. Sprayed carb cleaner at the base again, and the leaks are in the front. pass side and some of the rear base...none on driver's side.
I'm thinking of buying a new, thick Ede gasket off line (like the one on it now), and see if it makes any difference.
I'm starting to feel like all this **** isn't worth it, and should go out and buy a Chevy.
Rob
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
Is your choke staying closed or something?, that would explain why it runs worse sealed up and better when its sucking air in paat the gasket
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