Edelbrock 1406 whistling

-
Copy that.

Most folks (including myself) throw the 2 end gaskets in the trash and use a nice thick bead of RTV instead. Make sure the beads come up the heads about 1/4" or so.
 
I wish I would have read this earlier. As soon as he said the other carb did the same thing. I blurted out "manifold" to myself. Although the mention of "oiled paper" a little later on in the post told me it was a warped carb base. Glad you isolated it.
I went looking and found this on the back of a Gumouot can of spray carb cleaner, make your own judgement:
"WITH ENGINE RUNNING:
CARBURETOR: Spray GUMOUT® to both ends of the choke valve shaft while working choke by hand. Spray down and around the carburetor throat to remove deposits from the throttle plate area. DO NOT SPRAY DOWN CARBURETOR THROAT WITH ENGINE OFF. DO NOT SPRAY BELOW THROTTLE PLATE. CHOKE: If choke sticks, remove choke cover and spray. PCV VALVE: Disconnect the crankcase side of the valve and spray GUMOUT® into the open end of the valve while working the plunger back and forth...."

Safety is always priority. Doing anything to a running motor puts you in harms way, especially with a fan whirring 12 inches from your body, an explosive gas generating battery next to spark plug wires, and 500 degree headers slowly cooking 5 quarts of oil, as well as raw fuel in almost aerosol form out of the carb squirters, not to mention close to boiling water under 16psi running through cooked radiator hoses that may be as old as your kid who just graduated 8th grade. Lot of things can get you under there, best defense is an alert technician (you).
 
So, whatever happened to.......
"When I got to the passenger's side of the carb with the spray, the idle smoothed out and the car ran fine for a few seconds, and then went back to running like crap."
Are we looking in a whole new area now? That "open hole" at the front of the manifold is a fair distance away from the original problem area, wouldn't you say???

????????
 
sounds like whoever installed your intake may have not used a proper torque sequence and slightly warped the intake OR maybe you have an intake that came from the factory out of spec? .....which would explain both the base plate leak on with BOTH carburetors and the intake gasket leak.

I always bolt my intakes down from the center out in a criss crossing X- pattern.

you may find that even with a new intake gasket set that your intake is "sprung"
 
I'll check it, DD...but if my memory serves, back when we were installing it, I let my 18 year old son install the intake while I was doing something else (hell, he wanted to help his dad in his own car :wink:), so with all the activity going on trying to get the Duster up and running (it was a Craigslist basket case), I probably forgot to go behind him and check the torque specs; it was probably not tightened down as much as a grown man might have done it.

Live and learn. :icon_smi:

Rob
 
So, whatever happened to....... Are we looking in a whole new area now? That "open hole" at the front of the manifold is a fair distance away from the original problem area, wouldn't you say???

????????

Not really....5, 6 inches, maybe? And the way I was spraying that carb cleaner everywhere (without a nozzle straw), there's no doubt it was being sucked up by the intake, making me think it was the carb base.

If you recall, I never said it had a leak on any sides but the front and the passenger side....both adjacent to the "hole".

Rob
 
UPDATE: I replaced the intake gaskets and the new carb base gasket, and I’m proud to say that I have stopped those leaks.

Finally.

Liberal spraying of carb cleaner around the base and the intake make no impact whatsoever.

But, here’s the kicker…THE DAMN THING STILL WHISTLES.

And it runs like ****. I mean, it runs bad…..it sounds like it’s missing on 2 cylinders. I replaced the No. 2 and 4 cylinder plug wires (that’s where the leak was), but to no avail. I then pulled those two plugs and found them to be burnt brown on the tips and insulators (but not oily). I have to pick up a couple of new plugs this week to rule those out, but there’s something else happening that’s making me wonder if this is a more serious problem.

When I start it up, it whistles as usual, but it also makes a loud “chuffing” noise, which sounds like it’s coming from that side of the block. It’s not constant like an open plug hole, but more of an intermittent, hollow “popping” noise, sounding a lot like one of those old-time John Deere “poppin’ Johnny” 2-strokes you hear at the car shows.

Or an exhaust leak, perhaps, but I can’t see that making it whistle…I don’t have a compression tester, but if you guys think it could be that, I’ll try to dig one up. Unless there’s another way to check, like the old paper-sucking-on-the-exhaust-tip trick…any ideas what may be causing this new issue?

BTW, my heartfelt thanks goes out to all you guys who have helped my figure out this leak problem….I couldn’t have done it without you, and that's no lie. :thumbup:

Now, if I could only figure this latest problem out, it might stop me from blowing this @#@!&#!! Plymouth to pieces, or setting the @#@!&#!! thing on fire….:cussing:

Rob
 
if it still runs like crud and is still whisteling ....then it sounds like things still need fixed.

hard saying without being hands on in person.

but a compression check would definitely not hurt anything.

do a compression test and a leak down test.

and hook up a vacuum gauge......normally if there is a "whistle" you have a vacuum leak.

but some of your symptoms sound almost like bad rings or a tipped or hung valve or something.
 
I think you have some craptastic carburetion. Try another one.
 
I wish I would have read this earlier. As soon as he said the other carb did the same thing. I blurted out "manifold" to myself. Although the mention of "oiled paper" a little later on in the post told me it was a warped carb base. Glad you isolated it.
I went looking and found this on the back of a Gumouot can of spray carb cleaner, make your own judgement:
"WITH ENGINE RUNNING:
CARBURETOR: Spray GUMOUT® to both ends of the choke valve shaft while working choke by hand. Spray down and around the carburetor throat to remove deposits from the throttle plate area. DO NOT SPRAY DOWN CARBURETOR THROAT WITH ENGINE OFF. DO NOT SPRAY BELOW THROTTLE PLATE. CHOKE: If choke sticks, remove choke cover and spray. PCV VALVE: Disconnect the crankcase side of the valve and spray GUMOUT® into the open end of the valve while working the plunger back and forth...."

Safety is always priority. Doing anything to a running motor puts you in harms way, especially with a fan whirring 12 inches from your body, an explosive gas generating battery next to spark plug wires, and 500 degree headers slowly cooking 5 quarts of oil, as well as raw fuel in almost aerosol form out of the carb squirters, not to mention close to boiling water under 16psi running through cooked radiator hoses that may be as old as your kid who just graduated 8th grade. Lot of things can get you under there, best defense is an alert technician (you).
Stop working on them, if it so dangerous.
 
All of your posts in this thread were so informative and helpful, keep up the good work.

:thumbup:

Yes and yet he's chastised everybody and their brother for doing the exact same thing. :violent1: angry9:
 
YOU AIN'T GONNA BELIEVE THIS......I figured it out.

ALL of it.

The Whistle.

The missing.

Everything.

And it makes me look like a big dumb, asshole.

I discovered it by pure accident this afternoon, when I was chugging home from work. My brakes suddenly "went", and after a bit of panic-induced pedal stomping, I pulled over to see that hell ELSE was wrong.

I figured the booster vacuum line was loose, so I opened the hood to check. No, the line was still hooked up, and the engine was still running rough and whistling, but I noticed the booster fitting was missing a rubber boot on one of the big nipples. A-HA! I put my finger over it, and the car ran smoother, but was still whistling. I picked up a wood stick for a plug and prepared to fix the problem so I could get it home.

THEN I SAW IT.

I don't know how in the hell I missed it before, but when I grabbed the booster fitting to twist it around to put the stick in, my fingers fell across a third vacuum fitting lurking on the back, bottom side of the fitting...my hand closed around it, and the car smoothed out perfectly.

BINGO.

The top of a gol-darned vacuum cap had apparently rotted off, leaving that @#!*%i-ng nipple to whistle like a mo-fo...I could NOT believe it.

All those carb gaskets. All those plates. All this intake gaskets. All those times I pulled that damn Edelbrock off that car to try and stop it from whistling, and it was that frikkin' booster nipple THE WHOLE TIME.

I now feel like a TOTAL DUMB ***. I guess you live and learn from this kind of crap, but I'm just flabbergasted at my oversight. Oh well, I've got some new parts now.

I want to thank everyone who contributed to solving this issue...I almost wished it had not been such a stupid fix (for a stupid, Captain Obvious mechanic like myself), but I appreciate all the help.

You guys rock. :thumblef:

Case closed.

Rob
 
Well at least you figured it out. Got to love those POS caps that don't last worth a damn. Glad to see the thread get its answer though, too many times a thread stops with no answer to what the hell solved the problem.
 
like I said......vacuum leak!

LOL

well it was not ALL for nothing.....you obviously did have your base plate gaskets in the wrong order and you also had a leak at the base where you sprayed carb cleaner at it......so atleast you have the peace of mind of knowing those are fixed.

sometimes you beat the hell out of yourself looking for a problem and you get so much input on what it COULD be....that you skip right over the obvious....it happens to alot of us.

glad you got it fixed finally and that all is well!
 
Do you have a high frequency hearing loss? I ask because I DO. I have a LOT of trouble with everything associated with what all the ears do....and it's WAY more than you might think.....anyway I ask because one of my big problems is direction finding with sound. That's why I have to have the phone in the same spot all the time. Because I don't know where it is, I cannot find it when it rings, because it sounds like it's coming from everywhere except where it is. It's a pain in the *** actually. Glad you got it fixed though. I know you are too.
 
Ok.....Your sure right ? Lol.

Well, you figured it out. That's all that really matters. Now might be a good time to replace any old vacuum lines,caps,ect.

The edelbrock base gasket/heat insulator is a good buy. Edelbrock carbs are known to
heat soak in the hot months, this will help prevent that. Plus you didn't need the plate !

Bottom line,it's a car. Sometimes they can be a SOB.
 
Stop working on them, if it so dangerous.

Haven't got maimed yet, so Ill keep wrenching. Thanks for the advice. I also gaff telephone poles for a living so safety is paramount, and No, I cant stop doing that because its dangerous; it's my job and I love it.

ICEV01P03_09.jpg


Oh yes, glad you found the vacuum leak.
 
Wow, and some were bashing edelbrock carbs saying that was the problem......


Glad you found it, as far as looking dumb??

I have done SOOOOO much worse........
 
Thanks again, guys, and especially for helping me feel less of an ***. :D

And yeah, Stroker...I actually DO have hi-frequency hearing loss; I just never thought about it making me misjudge the location of the whistle. :|

Rob
 
gunfire in the late '60's took out my hearing. I can't use a beep ohm meter, Can't hear in a crowded room. Damn tinnitus. I know the feeling. Pos glasses, Pos hurting body, lol.
 
Wow, and some were bashing edelbrock carbs saying that was the problem......


Glad you found it, as far as looking dumb??

I have done SOOOOO much worse........


I bash um cause I don't like um. I didn't give a damn if it was the problem or not. lol
 
-
Back
Top