Edelbrock 1406 whistling

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DusterDude72 said:
Is your choke staying closed or something?, that would explain why it runs worse sealed up and better when its sucking air in past the gasket
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How do I know? Can I unplug it and tell? My other rod has a manual choke, so I'm a stranger to these electric jobbies...what makes me curious is that the day I started the car, and this whistling started, the choke was WFO until I kicked the gas down....it had never done that before.

Rob
 
Ghostsoldier said:
How do I know? Can I unplug it and tell? My other rod has a manual choke, so I'm a stranger to these electric jobbies...what makes me curious is that the day I started the car, and this whistling started, the choke was WFO until I kicked the gas down....it had never done that before.

Rob
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Take the air-cleaner off.
When the car is warm is the choke fully opened or closed ?

Another thing you can do for test purposes, is disconect the choke wire and wire the choke open. This is for test purposes only.

I dont even run a choke here in Cal. Actually that is the first thing I remove on these carbs.
 
Johnny....I disconnected the choke wire and wired it fully open with a paper clip, and started it up. Still whistles. I put my hand over the valve to restrict the air, and the idle picks up, the whistling diminishes, but it is still there.

After the car warmed up, I reconnected the choke wire and watched the valve...it stays about 1/2 open, and does not move.

Still whistling. :)

Rob
 
sounds like you still have your base plate gasket leak.

rather it runs worse sealed up or not......it is suppose to be sealed tight, putting the old gaskets on and allowing it to leak so it runs "better" is not fixing the problem.

sounds like you have more than one problem.

you need to put the new gaskets on and in the correct order so that it is sealed up tight.

at which point it should not be sucking any air in past any gaskets and if it is than it maybe sucking air in at one of the intake gaskets!

have you tried spraying starting fluid along the runners of your intake to see if the idle picks up or bogs down?

do you have your carburetor adjusted?

to adjust the carb let it get up to operating temperature.
start with the screw on the right front of the carb and turn it clockwise until you hear the engines idle start to drop, at which point turn the screw counterclockwise a quarter turn.

repeat these steps on the left side.

I think that is the set the base idle for leaner condition and I think you would do the opposite for a richer tune (can't remember for sure) which you would do the same process but by starting by turning counter clockwise and then a quarter turn clockwise after the change in idle.

this mostly effects just your idle circuit and not your throttle so it likely will not fix any stumble issues BUT it may get rid of the whistle you are hearing.

also you need to check how it runs with choke open and choke cold and both hot and cold operating temps and that may help narrow things down, and of course all the obvious things like fuel filter,how many PSI your fuel pump is pushing,if its electric then do you have your regulator set correctly?,clean air filter,all your vacuum hoses are in good shape and connected?

on the 1406 I believe you have the center front port which is the PCV vacuum,then the left front would be vacuum advance port for your distributor and then you should have another port on the front right that you most likely will have capped off and then you will have the brake booster port on the center rear of the carb. make sure that that booster port aswell as any others are not sucking air somehow .

it definitely sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere though being that there is a "whistle" and issues with performance.
 
Have you tried the 9266 yet ?
I doubt this will cure the whisteling but it will seal the carb to the intake.

Have you talked to a tech at Edelbrock yet ?

Maybe it is something very simple, that they have an answer for.

Send them your video if you can.
 
DusterDude brought up some good points.
On the idle mixture screws start with them 1 1/2 turns out.
Disconect vacuum advance, and plug all ports.
Make sure back hole (brake booster) is sealed good.
Again, for testing purposes.

I hope this isnt ignition related.......
 
DusterDude72 said:
...putting the old gaskets on and allowing it to leak so it runs "better" is not fixing the problem.
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Yeah, I know...but I've got to drive the damn thing to work.

I put the new gaskets on in the correct order, and it still leaks....I sprayed the intake runners the other day, and there's no leak there....the carb's idle circuit is adjusted just like you described, and as shown in the Edelbrock how-to vids, and the whistle is still there....new distributor, ignition, fuel and air filter, electric pump and regulator set to 4 psi (I tried it on 3 and 5, no change)...the only vac hose I use (besides the vac advance) is the power brakes, and it's got a clamp on it, all others are plugged/capped....

...beats the hell out of me....

Rob
 
Johnny Dart said:
Have you tried the 9266 yet ?
I doubt this will cure the whisteling but it will seal the carb to the intake.

Have you talked to a tech at Edelbrock yet ?

Maybe it is something very simple, that they have an answer for.

Send them your video if you can.
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Johnny....I have not talked to a Edelbrock Tech, although I went to the website forum and found nothing that would help...I may have to give them a call, of find a link for an email to send the video

The one thing I haven't done yet (as far as for effort) and the consistent missing link in all of this, is to try a new, high-quality carb base gasket; those Mr. G types I've been buying are crappy 1/16" fiber, no where near the thickness of the old one (1/8") that's on there now. I've got the 9266 on order.

Rob
 
Ghostsoldier said:
OK fellas, let me try to catch up here....

First.....to answer Dusterdude's question: no, I have never run the car hot...it ran fine for the longest time, until this started happening.

Second.....Steve, this is what I'm running, in this order (my son wanted yellow valve covers...don't ask, lol):

S6307655.jpg


S6307656.jpg


S6307659.jpg


S6307660.jpg


This is the stack....

S6307661.jpg


Here's what happened when I tried the paper trick:

Under the front of the carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the driver's side: couldn't pull it out
Under the rear of carb: couldn't pull it out
Under the pass side of the carb: pulled out like it was oiled

Hmmmm....so, I grabbed the spare 1406 and tried the same thing, and got the exact same results.

Then, I took a steel rule and placed it across the intake holes, pulled it slowly, and it drags/scrapes across all 3 surfaces evenly (both sides and the center divider)...plus, it does not 'rock' in any spot when I move it.

One question, though: I noticed in my photos that I have the carb studs located in the inboard holes...would it make a better seal if I moved them to the outer set of holes on the manifold?

Rob
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Bottom picture .The gasket on the bottom in this picture is the one you want to use top and bottom. That gasket will work in either position. The one that is on the top will not work against the carb at all , and sometimes will leak on the intake side. If you get two gastkets with the square hole or bore you will be able to use your out side bolt holes . When looking at the pictures close you can see the gasket you had on the bottom sealed the intake, There is a impression of the whole intake flange in the gasket. After you do this it will be sealed and we'll work on the crappy part then. but seal the intake. And yes the comments about them being swithced were correct by other members. But just use two square bore gaskets and the outer holes. Maybe you can use one of your old gastkets on the carb side . But keep the gasket you have on the bottom there and replace the top one and not wiht a spread bore style. Steve

After you get it running and its idling. Take your hands and very slowly cover up the top of the carb with the air filter off. Do this very slowly as to control the air being drawn in. If the motor starts to raise keep your hands in that position and see if you can control air intake. If it dies without trying to rev at all the intake and carb are sealed . if it revs you have a leak. Steve
 
one other thing is put a couple of washer on the studs befor the nut . It is hard to see but it looks like the nuts could be bottoming before the carb gets tight. Steve
 
Good God almighty. How many times do people have to say "get the right gasket"?
 
Thanks for the tips, Steve...I'll give it a shot (I've got spare gaskets like that bottom one).

StrokerScamp said:
Good God almighty. How many times do people have to say "get the right gasket"?
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As many times as it takes, dude....besides, I've been told the "right" gasket is about 4 different ones, and I've already almost forgotten which of the f**ckers I've used already.

Besides, aren't you married? My wife has to tell me at least 30 times to do something, before it sinks in...:D

Rob
 
Revisiting DusterDude's suggestion: Will a leaking intake manifold cause that whistle?

I think I may be onto something here, if that's true....

Rob
 
Yep, pretty much the only thing besides the carb to whistle if it leaks. Well, other than a hose maybe. Have your heads been milled? Gasket choice? Are you using the rubber end seals? Does it use oil? Using a PCV valve?
 
square bore carbs (eddy 1406) use the outside holes...the inside holes on the intake manifold is for the spreadbore or thermoflush....
 
OK....I tried two, new square bore gaskets on the plate, and it made no difference.

I put the Ford 1406 carb on again, with the plate and gaskets, still no change.

Then I did the ultimate no-no (hey, I'm desperate), and used Permatex No. 2 on the old gasket with the carb in question....still no change. I pulled it off and cleaned it up.

Then, being totally exasperated, and thinking about what Duster Dude had suggested about the intake possibly leaking (and feeling like a total dumb-***, because I thought I tried this last week), I used my carb spray to individually focus on each intake runner mating surface, and discovered that the whistling disappears completely, and the idle smooths out perfectly, when I spray at a small, rectangular hole in the gasket (between the manifold and the head), near the end on the manifold, at the first set of runners on the passenger side (see pic)... I then used a water hose with a spray nozzle, started the car, and focused the stream on that spot, again...the car picked up a little using the water, too.

man1.jpg


I'm not sure why that hole is there...it has always been there, but I noticed that the intake bolts were also a bit loose....not "falling out" loose, but "extra-1/4" turn-to-tighten" loose. I dunno....maybe the combination of the loose bolts and the vibration has caused a breach in the gasket sealing surface. Also, those two spark plugs at those cylinders don't seem to be firing as well as the others.


Sooooo....it looks like I've been monkeying around with this goddamn carb all this time, and the source of the whistle is the @#!$!! intake.

Sonofabitch.

I'm putting a new Felpro set on tonight, and I'll let you know what happens. :wink:

Rob
 
AH HA!

Glad that you finally found the source!

atleast its not a super hard or expensive job to do.....a couple hourse of work and you should be back in business.

keep us posted.
 
DusterDude72 said:
AH HA!

Glad that you finally found the source!

atleast its not a super hard or expensive job to do.....a couple hourse of work and you should be back in business.

keep us posted.
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Thanks, DD...I went ahead and ordered Edelbrock brand from the parts house, just so there wouldn't be any fit issues...should be here by Wednesday; I'll let you know what happens!

Rob
 
Ghostsoldier said:
Thanks, DD...I went ahead and ordered Edelbrock brand from the parts house, just so there wouldn't be any fit issues...should be here by Wednesday; I'll let you know what happens!

Rob
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I would have bought Fel-Pro's............

Do yourself a favor..Use the 9266. Not only will it seal it to the manifold, the carb will run cooler with it.When you install it get rid of every plate,gasket, that you have been using. You do not need them with this gasket. I repeat, you do not need the plate or gaskets, it goes directly on the manifold. Install the new studs that come with it. The course threads go in the manifold.
 
Johnny Dart said:
I would have bought Fel-Pro's............
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John...that's what I used on it the first time; I am/was a bit gun-shy at using them again, because I wasn't sure if the Ede gaskets are made different than the Felpro's, for that manifold application...

Do yourself a favor..Use the 9266.
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It's on the way. :wink:

Rob
 
Sounds like your manifold was leaking from one of the end gaskets.

Did you use the gaskets or RTV when you installed the manifold ?
 
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