Engine Temp LA 360

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Babyblue66 said:
In all my years of driving and working on old mopars, since 1993, the most consistent I've ever had any engine run was when I ran a 195 thermostat. I've never seen one run at 160 when I installed that thermostat , they just don't stay that cool. Normally I run a 180 and out of 3 cars with a 180 they still stay at about 190. So the next one I install will be a 195.
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My engine runs at 160 all day long.
 
Stroker under a doghouse engine cover, with less than ideal air flow, FSR aluminum 18”x18” core w/two row 1” tube radiator, no shroud, Hayden short version viscous drive w/Derale 17” 6-blade fan. Edelbrock copy hi-flow water pump, bypass and heater outlets plugged, custom made restrictor disc in place of a high flow thermostat. Runs 175°-185°. Might see 190°-195° sitting at a long light, but drops quickly when rolling. Does take a while to build heat on colder mornings (40’s) but does run at 160°-165° after a while. I want my coolant moving, that’s what it does. I have an open pusher fan for at the track cooling and just in case it were to get hotter at stops but it doesn’t so it’s just for the track.
 
Babyblue66 said:
In all my years of driving and working on old mopars, since 1993, the most consistent I've ever had any engine run was when I ran a 195 thermostat. I've never seen one run at 160 when I installed that thermostat , they just wouldn't stay that cool. Normally I run a 180 and out of 3 cars with a 180 they still stay at about 190. So the next one I install will be a 195.
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That's because the thermostat has zero to do with how hot (maximum) temperature an engine runs. There's one exception and that is with a high flow thermostat. They can reduce the engine's maximum temperature by allowing more coolant flow, but the thermostat's opening rating has zero to do with how hot the engine runs. That is a function of "the rest" of the cooling system...mostly the radiator.
 
One temperature gauge is like having one hand tied behind your back if you really need to diagnose some trouble. I have a dual input thermometer - one on the inlet, one on the outlet to the radiator. Taped and insulated close to the tanks. It has long leads, so I can watch it on trips and see what the radiator is doing.


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Demonic said:
One temperature gauge is like having one hand tied behind your back if you really need to diagnose some trouble. I have a dual input thermometer - one on the inlet, one on the outlet to the radiator. Taped and insulated close to the tanks. It has long leads, so I can watch it on trips and see what the radiator is doing.


View attachment 1716044490
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very cool, where can I get one?
 
TF360 said:
Most likely your Radiator. Is it large enough and flowing properly? Do you have a Fan Shroud, and a good fan? 160 is too cool- I would run a 180. Factory Thermostat is 195 in most cases
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Yeah I had one of the 59 Magnums in an 02 Ram 4-door with Factory tow package was an 85,000 truck I was 2nd owner... the wheel bearing from Advance Auto into that the entire Hub split in half and took part of the steering with the rim tire brakes and everything else! They were so quick to give me my money back I'm thinking I should have sued the sons of bitches for their Chinese junk! Anyhow in Tampa Florida in the summer with that 195 (which is recommended as you say) the damn thing run way too hot I dropped the 180 in there brother she did much better! That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 
Do a search for dual temperature meter or dual input digital thermometer. Fieldpiece, Cooper, and of course Fluke (if you have money) is a good brand. But it's hard to find one with long leads that will let you use it in the car. Thermocouple wire is of course, not the same as regular copper wire.

I tried copying the link from Amazon, but something went wrong.

Amazon product ASIN B000OLCD9Q
 
Demonic said:
One temperature gauge is like having one hand tied behind your back if you really need to diagnose some trouble. I have a dual input thermometer - one on the inlet, one on the outlet to the radiator. Taped and insulated close to the tanks. It has long leads, so I can watch it on trips and see what the radiator is doing.


View attachment 1716044490
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That's a nice tool to have, but I simply verify my temperature with an IR gun. I make sure my factory gauge corresponds. That's all you really need. Verification that everything is working correctly and telling you "the truth". That way, when my gauge tells me something different, I know to pay attention.
 
You can also buy a temp probe that plugs into a standard DVM.
 
I have a trouble getting accurate readings with my IR thermometer sometimes. I have read that they work best on flat finish dark surfaces.
RustyRatRod said:
That's a nice tool to have, but I simply verify my temperature with an IR gun. I make sure my factory gauge corresponds. That's all you really need. Verification that everything is working correctly and telling you "the truth". That way, when my gauge tells me something different, I know to pay attention.
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Mike69cuda said:
I have a trouble getting accurate readings with my IR thermometer sometimes. I have read that they work best on flat finish dark surfaces.
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That might be true. I don't know. I never have trouble with mine, because I have nothing shiny under the hood. LOL
 
My recommendations in which I did just this same thing when my 340 was running close to 205 consistantly, Install a fan shroud and move your fan further back from the radiator and doing this will allow for more air flow over more of the radiator. I also have a 180 degree Thermostat and my 340 runs pretty consistant between 185-190 on a Hot and Humid day here in NW Pa
..
 
Mcfarlrm said:
If those are acceptable then I will keep the setup as is for now. May look into a larger aluminum radiator and electric fan down the road. Especially once we hit the summer months. Granted, not going to be driving much in FL summers with a no AC car. Current set up looks to be an original Mopar radiator, aftermarket belt driven fan with no shroud (need to watch my fingers). I was going to go the fan shroud route until I realized that there is about an 1/8 inch clearance between the fan and radiator hose so fitment may be an issue. High flow 160 thermostat. Not too sure on the water pump either so will have to check.
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Just my two cents, but I would ditch the a/m mechanical fan. Either go with a clutch type oem fan with a shroud, or some type of electric fan setup.

If your setup is running 210 now at idle, it will run hot this summer in Florida guaranteed.
 
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