EPAS Electric Power Steering install

[my68barracuda]

Drove the 68 Barracuda out of the garage today, with Electric Power Steering!

I used the kit from EPAS, I know that some folks are improvising units from salvage yards, but I was wanting an engineered solution for this install. I have used pull a part components many times, just not this time.

EPAS Performance

There is potentiometer that allows one to adjust the amount of power assist delivered to the steering column.
With the dial full left, there is no power assist, moving the nob to the right increases the assist incrementally.
At full right, the assist is like a big Buick of back in the day, a butterfly could turn the steering wheel.

The Mopar A body kit is complete, but it is not a 100% bolt in without modifications. The existing column is cut down, I re used the existing steering column fire wall plate and mounted the included lower steering shaft bearing to the OE fire wall plate. The fire wall plate included with the kit may work on a first generation A body, but it does not fit a second generation Barracuda.
One also needs to devise a way to firmly mount the shaft mounted motor and torque sensor. Just one more part of the project. The EPAS kit includes a nice universal that replaces the OE slider at the steering box. The EPAS steering column is a two piece design that has a solid D shaped bar tightly fitting inside a larger D shaped tube. That retains the ability of the steering column to adjust it length slightly in daily driving or by inches in the event of a collision.

The steering column power unit ended up being positioned above the gas pedal. It does not in any way interfere with foot access to the gas pedal. But If I was doing an install with the dash completely disassembled, I would have been able to mount it up higher where the power unit wound not have been visible at all.

The wiring is straight forward, there is a control box that needs to be mounted and two wire connections, one light amperage wire that activates an internal relay and one 60 amp heavier wire that needs to be connected for the main power feed.

I am satisfied with the unit. The install was an interesting exercise. A bit of garage fiddling included, but that is where the fun is.
When I had questions the EPAS tech support was available and had good general information.

 

[72bluNblu]

Nice!!!

I was curious about these, looked like a decently well thought out kit. Being able to easily adjust the amount assist is awesome, very handy.

I’m still happy with my 16:1 manual steering but I could totally see getting to a point where something like an EPAS would be nice.

How difficult was it to get it mated up to the original steering column?

 

[my68barracuda]

Nice!!!

I was curious about these, looked like a decently well thought out kit. Being able to easily adjust the amount assist is awesome, very handy.

I’m still happy with my 16:1 manual steering but I could totally see getting to a point where something like an EPAS would be nice.

How difficult was it to get it mated up to the original steering column?

Electric Power Steering Install - Slant Six Forum

above is a link to the post on the same subject that I put up at .org
the Jan 28 2023 post has photos that show how I welded straps on the existing OE collar that holds the steering column up and in place. I drilled and threaded holes into the aluminum collar on the EPAS unit so the EPAS unit is firmly bolted to the steering column and the dash. I also had to cut the outboard most extension (bolt mount) from the OE collar to clear the EPAS unit. I then fabricated a work around section to replace the section cut away.

I removed the front seat from the 68 Barracuda to give me room to work. It was not bad, but if a person would be installing one of these units as part of a restore project with the dash under dash wiring out of the way it would be much easier and allow more options for positioning the EPAS unit and fabricating a mount.

I have 16:1 steering in the 68 Barracuda,, not bad to drive on the street, however I did a couple of Autocross events last summer and on some real slow sharp turns I could not get the steering wheel around as fast as I wanted to. Thats why the power steering was installed.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Nice!!!

I was curious about these, looked like a decently well thought out kit. Being able to easily adjust the amount assist is awesome, very handy.

I’m still happy with my 16:1 manual steering but I could totally see getting to a point where something like an EPAS would be nice.

How difficult was it to get it mated up to the original steering column?

I agree, my PST 16:1 is awesome, but I’m 34 and one day I know I’ll want power. Seems like EPAS is the way to go.

Very nice install and car @my68barracuda

 

[72bluNblu]

Electric Power Steering Install - Slant Six Forum

above is a link to the post on the same subject that I put up at .org
the Jan 28 2023 post has photos that show how I welded straps on the existing OE collar that holds the steering column up and in place. I drilled and threaded holes into the aluminum collar on the EPAS unit so the EPAS unit is firmly bolted to the steering column and the dash. I also had to cut the outboard most extension (bolt mount) from the OE collar to clear the EPAS unit. I then fabricated a work around section to replace the section cut away.

I removed the front seat from the 68 Barracuda to give me room to work. It was not bad, but if a person would be installing one of these units as part of a restore project with the dash under dash wiring out of the way it would be much easier and allow more options for positioning the EPAS unit and fabricating a mount.

I have 16:1 steering in the 68 Barracuda,, not bad to drive on the street, however I did a couple of Autocross events last summer and on some real slow sharp turns I could not get the steering wheel around as fast as I wanted to. Thats why the power steering was installed.

Awesome! Thanks for the link!

Yeah I love my steering on the street and haven’t had any issues with being able to get the wheel around. But I’d like to start doing AutoX again and I can imagine that on some slower/tighter courses it might be more of a workout than I want it to be. Not there yet but I’m definitely looking into these new systems, nice to have options other than adding traditional power steering boxes. The ability to change the assist level is a huge advantage in my book, one setting for street use, another for AutoX, something different again for a long road trip with lots of drive time etc…

 

[Dana67Dart]

I wonder if you could take a PS column and put the electronics between the shorter PS column shaft and a manual box in the engine compartment?

 

[billsdartgt]

I used the epas kit in my 66 mustang, possibly will be in the Dart somewhere down the road,

 

[DNasty777]

I wonder if you could take a PS column and put the electronics between the shorter PS column shaft and a manual box in the engine compartment?

You could theoretically, but I think you'd have a hard time with the space constraints. You'd need header and brake master/booster clearance, and you'd also need to either bolt the EPAS unit to the firewall or create some sort of mount off the frame.

 

[DNasty777]

I like the EPAS Performance kits, the variable assist and small parts are nice to complete the install, but I can't get over the $1.5k price tag. While the prices on the pulled EPAS units are going up a little due to hot-rodder demand, they're still only about $200. You can add the variable assist using an arduino, can-bus hat, and potentiometer or 4 position switch. I just bought another arduino and can-bus hat so I'll be working on decoding the messaging for the EPAS ECU shortly.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Nice install, John! Looks like a nice kit, too!

 

[TT5.9mag]

I like the EPAS Performance kits, the variable assist and small parts are nice to complete the install, but I can't get over the $1.5k price tag. While the prices on the pulled EPAS units are going up a little due to hot-rodder demand, they're still only about $200. You can add the variable assist using an arduino, can-bus hat, and potentiometer or 4 position switch. I just bought another arduino and can-bus hat so I'll be working on decoding the messaging for the EPAS ECU shortly.

It would be awesome to figure out some kind of vehicle speed based assist instead of the 4 position set points.

 

[DNasty777]

It would be awesome to figure out some kind of vehicle speed based assist instead of the 4 position set points.

Completely do-able. Depending on your setup you can do it a few ways. In my car, I'll likely splice the 5v VSS signal wire, send it to the arduino and calculate speed that way. If you have an ECU or data-logger that supports can-bus, and you know the messaging protocol you can just send the data over the bus to the arduino and then on through to the EPAS. Unfortunately I chose a Holley Terminator X and Holley regards their messaging protocol to be proprietary (likely to lock you into their add-on ecosystem). You could snoop their can-bus and decipher their messaging. If I would have went with Megasquirt its all documented.

If you have a stock cable driven speedo, you could buy one of the digital speedo cable extensions and send the output from that to the arduino.

 

[67Dart273]

Do you know what the "base" is for these kits? AKA what models of vehicles they came from?

 

[DNasty777]

Do you know what the "base" is for these kits? AKA what models of vehicles they came from?

The two I have are from an 04-09 Toyota Prius, manufactured by Denso. See this thread for more info.

 

[clementine]

thought this was pretty good

 

[clementine]

rabbit hole.enjoy

 

[72Duster440]

You mention a 60amp power feed, did you upgrade your alternator and the wiring as well? I'm still running like a 40 amp alternator, I would have some extra work to do.

 

[DNasty777]

You mention a 60amp power feed, did you upgrade your alternator and the wiring as well? I'm still running like a 40 amp alternator, I would have some extra work to do.

The load is rated up to 60 amps, but the EPAS unit won't pull that much full time. It can spike if you hit the wheel lock or a curb and try to load up the suspension against the EPAS motor, but under normal conditions it should be well below that. I haven't finished my install so I haven't been able to accurately measure the current draw, but I intend to eventually test it under differing conditions.

 

[72bluNblu]

The load is rated up to 60 amps, but the EPAS unit won't pull that much full time. It can spike if you hit the wheel lock or a curb and try to load up the suspension against the EPAS motor, but under normal conditions it should be well below that. I haven't finished my install so I haven't been able to accurately measure the current draw, but I intend to eventually test it under differing conditions.

That would be super helpful!

I’m already running a 200 amp alternator and a brand new aftermarket wire harness so just adding a relay for it wouldn’t be that difficult. But for other folks considering this upgrade the constant draw would be important.

We already have enough “electric fans suck” threads because people don’t wire them correctly and update their electrical to handle the draw to run a fan(s) that moves enough air. We certainly don’t need a bunch of “EPAS sucks” threads for the same reason, or have someone burn up their car because they scabbed an EPAS into a stock harness. Even if it draws 30-40 amps the upgrades needed to a factory electrical system would be substantial.

 

[72Duster440]

The load is rated up to 60 amps, but the EPAS unit won't pull that much full time. It can spike if you hit the wheel lock or a curb and try to load up the suspension against the EPAS motor, but under normal conditions it should be well below that. I haven't finished my install so I haven't been able to accurately measure the current draw, but I intend to eventually test it under differing conditions.

I figured it would only pull major current against lock or when fighting the wheel against something. 60 is pretty substantial, I would have guessed it would be a 30 or 40 amp fuse on it.

I would definitely need to upgrade as my stock alt is running my EFI and electric fuel pump, I don't have much reserve left.

Curious to see how you like it and what the actual current draw is.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Nice work!

Ours is not on the road yet but looking forward to it. EPAS with an Ididit Tilt column custom modified and some extra parts added/substituted for our 6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback build.

Agree with OP, the firewall plate in the "Barracuda Kit" is for first Gen Barracuda so I made my own too.
Looks like you could use a Duster or Dart "Kit" and get the correct firewall plate. Not a big deal, easy to make.
I added a U-Joint inside just in case I need to adjust geometry around the 6.1...
Mine is clocked with the EPAS motor pointed toward the driver's side of the car, opposite the OP...
I've had it in and out a few times. Next time it goes in should be the for final assembly.
More if you are interested here:
G3 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project Post #297

 

[Map63Vette]

Completely do-able. Depending on your setup you can do it a few ways. In my car, I'll likely splice the 5v VSS signal wire, send it to the arduino and calculate speed that way. If you have an ECU or data-logger that supports can-bus, and you know the messaging protocol you can just send the data over the bus to the arduino and then on through to the EPAS. Unfortunately I chose a Holley Terminator X and Holley regards their messaging protocol to be proprietary (likely to lock you into their add-on ecosystem). You could snoop their can-bus and decipher their messaging. If I would have went with Megasquirt its all documented.

If you have a stock cable driven speedo, you could buy one of the digital speedo cable extensions and send the output from that to the arduino.

This is exactly what I was thinking about doing as I have a Megasquirt, a Raspberry Pi, and an Arduino all three in my car. The Arduino is set up to run a small column mounted display and the Pi is more like an infotainment system that runs the tuning software, navigation, and media. I'll be really curious to see if you can figure out the protocol to talk to the Prius EPAS unit as that is likely the direction I would go if I ever get around to doing this to my car.

 

[DNasty777]

This is exactly what I was thinking about doing as I have a Megasquirt, a Raspberry Pi, and an Arduino all three in my car. The Arduino is set up to run a small column mounted display and the Pi is more like an infotainment system that runs the tuning software, navigation, and media. I'll be really curious to see if you can figure out the protocol to talk to the Prius EPAS unit as that is likely the direction I would go if I ever get around to doing this to my car.

I made a can sniffer out of an esp32 board but I haven’t tried sniffing the epas unit yet. I found this thread though, if you read through you can see where one person has their code. Looking at that it seems he deciphered VSS and RPM can IDs and the scaling.

 

[Map63Vette]

I made a can sniffer out of an esp32 board but I haven’t tried sniffing the epas unit yet. I found this thread though, if you read through you can see where one person has their code. Looking at that it seems he deciphered VSS and RPM can IDs and the scaling.

Ah, I had a feeling someone out there had probably already done at least a little work on it. Was going to look around and see what I can find for CAN messages, but looks like a lot of it is already there. Seems like those messages would be super easy to build in my current system, though I wonder if I'd need to set up a second CAN bus to do it or if the EPAS unit would freak out with the MS proprietary messages being on the same bus.

 

[DNasty777]

Ah, I had a feeling someone out there had probably already done at least a little work on it. Was going to look around and see what I can find for CAN messages, but looks like a lot of it is already there. Seems like those messages would be super easy to build in my current system, though I wonder if I'd need to set up a second CAN bus to do it or if the EPAS unit would freak out with the MS proprietary messages being on the same bus.

I haven’t read into MS that much but if you can set up custom frames that will send the right messages to the right ID for the epas you’re probably all good. Otherwise you’d need an “interpreter” in between. An arduino with a can shield that has two buses would work. You’d read the MS bus on one line and send the data repackaged on the other for the epas.