FiTech EFI system

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One other thing I would add. I HATED the fuel command center in my engine compartment (mostly because I didn't have enough room to mount it down low and so it was flush with the top of my radiator and it just kind of ruined the Nostalgic look of the engine) and..I had some problems getting it set up..

SO>>>>> HERE IS SOMETHING THAT MAY HELP FUTURE BUYERS OF THIS SYSTEM. Summit sells this 255lph 60PSI in-line electric fuel pump for $135, (plus a $20 kit to install) AND IT WORKS GREAT! I mounted it about 12" from my tank on the frame rail (I had to remove a 6" section of my stock steel fuel line) and used high pressure 3/8 rubber fuel hose and clamps to make all the connections. THat steel line dumps out into my fender well, and I convert back to rubber, plus 1 large in-line fuel filter, and the fine filter that comes from FITECH that they want you to put right in front of the throttle body. All using the high pressure fuel injection rated fuel hose. It works great, and restored my engine back to the way it looks, and it will save you $350 instead of buying the Fuel Command Center. Oh for the return, I ran that 3/8 line back from the throttle body under my car back into the trunk and into the filler neck, I use a 90degree elbow t shoot the fuel back down my filler neck into the tank. It works great.

Also one more thing...the electric water temp sensor (included with the system) was showing 30-40 degrees cooler than my mechanical water temp sensor, so I moved it from the rear port of the intake manifold to the front, and now they read the same...

Here are the summit part numbers and a link.

VPN-GSL392BX
Fuel Pump, Electric, External, High Pressure, 255 lph, Each
(Mfr. #: GSL392BX)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-GSL392BX


Mount Kit, Steel, Isolator, Electric Fuel Pump, Fittings, Electrical Connections, Rubber Sleeve, Kit
(Mfr. #: 400-939)



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-400-939
 
So for those of you who are running this with the timing control and a Mopar distributor, I came across these. It's an easy, reversible way to lock out your distributor, no need to go and buy a lean burn unit if your current one is working properly. I'll be picking one up shortly here to use with my unit when I shows up.

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Mopar Mechanical timing limiter plate.htm

Edit, Mancini also sells the same one for a few dollars cheaper.

http://www.manciniracing.com/fbomodilipl.html
 
Or if you have the mopar performance distributor with Mallery internals, they can be locked out with a screwdriver.. That's what I have.. I checked the phasing at the mid range of timing with a spare cap with a hole in it, and it's firing close to the tower . I had the modified reluctor and wound up not needing it.

71 Challenger... there are settings for crank fuel at different temp settings and the like which you may have to adjust to solve your warm no-start issue. I would definitely got all those minor tweaks done before you change to timing control. Have you downloaded their handheld controller feature definitions manual ? It helped me a lot.
 
ken5124 said:
Or if you have the mopar performance distributor with Mallery internals, they can be locked out with a screwdriver.. That's what I have.. I checked the phasing at the mid range of timing with a spare cap with a hole in it, and it's firing close to the tower . I had the modified reluctor and wound up not needing it.

71 Challenger... there are settings for crank fuel at different temp settings and the like which you may have to adjust to solve your warm no-start issue. I would definitely got all those minor tweaks done before you change to timing control. Have you downloaded their handheld controller feature definitions manual ? It helped me a lot.
Click to expand...

^^ what he said. The crank and after fueling are very important.

As far as those having issues with it firing the fuel injectors when not running, I've had that issue when the wiring is run too close to the distributor. Something about the electronic ignition starts causing interference. Also check your spark plug wires - if you get an 'RPM noise' fault, or the RPM fluctuates a lot during cranking then there's something causing electronic interference and plug wires are often the culprit.
 
Finally.. some warm weather... +12 Celcius.. Went home at lunch and brought the Valiant back to work for the afternoon. Big Smiles... running strong.. Sure glad I went EFI..

It's going to be a great summer..... LOL
 
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Mine came in today. Just waiting on a couple more parts and I'm good to go. Can't wait.
 

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Anyone running this setup with the rev-n-nator and firecore distributor using the fitech controlled timing? Just curious how it's running for you guys. That's what I got right now and I'd like to keep it on there.
 
Johnny Pace said:
After seeing an increase of troubleshooting issues involved with attempts to use a factory style distributor, i'm going to once again throw out the link to an MSD distributor, and phasable rotor. I know there are some guys using OE's, and i myself in the past have even passively stated it should work. But i'm seeing too many issues to not take notice, and fully endorse the MSD as my recommended choice.

remember, 5% off for forum members.
http://paceperformance.com/i-22333783-msd-ignition-billet-distributor-8534.html
http://paceperformance.com/i-22333262-msd-ignition-adjustable-race-rotor-84211.html

If you're not having issues, then no problem. If you are...then see the above.
Click to expand...

Well I'm a little concerned and/or confused on this matter I'm really good and understand several things in this hobby but tuning isn't one of them I get by and that's pretty much my limit been considering the EFI for sometime and I'm getting close I've asked before about the Go Street and you stated better to go with the Go EFI - 4 due to the timing control and Mopar electronics problems which I've never had any real problems with so why not the Go Street for me also are you selling many or them -- Thanks
 
dodge71demon said:
Well I'm a little concerned and/or confused on this matter I'm really good and understand several things in this hobby but tuning isn't one of them I get by and that's pretty much my limit been considering the EFI for sometime and I'm getting close I've asked before about the Go Street and you stated better to go with the Go EFI - 4 due to the timing control and Mopar electronics problems which I've never had any real problems with so why not the Go Street for me also are you selling many or them -- Thanks
Click to expand...

Multiple questions here, and multiple considerations to be made. I will just go through my list...

1. The 400hp units have yet to land. So...I only have an estimated ship date, and they cant do timing.
2. The 600hp can do timing. Mega advantage.
3. .chrysler oe ignition is garbage, in its entirety, from ballast resister to ignition box.
4. The fitech needs a good rpm signal to work. As does any efi system. So...even in fuel only mode, if fighting a weak oe box, distributor, etc, the fitech can only work as good as the system its pulling a tach signal from.
5. Onto timing control....in theory, should a locked oe distributor work? yep. Does reusing a ten year old mag pickup, with a non phasable distributor rotor, cause issues for a shade tree mechanic? Yes, regularly.

Im working on attaining some less expensive billet style distributors to go with these units. At the end of the day, these are meant to be the quick, easy road to efi. And they are. However, using old, jumpy tach ignition components with them, can cause issues.

Do you build a brand new engine, but use an old carb from a farm truck and expect it to run great....? See my point?

If someone wants to use the 400 or 800 unit with no timing control, thats fine. Im completely good with a cdi box or a "ready to run" style distributor. Being used in its place. Just know the 400 unit paired with a 40 year old box and distributor...may not be a simple plug and play.

Hope all that makes sense, and I dont mean to be gruff. I will gladly elaborate over the phone if you want to give me a ring at my desk tomorrow.
 
Makes more than enough sense to me...you have gone out of your way to help the forum members shopping these units and anyone who is still shopping elsewhere is nuts!

You reccomend a msd billet style distributor if using timing control.

Or

You can use a msd style ignition box, or ready to run (dui style) dizzy if you want a go street, mean street, or to run in fuel only.

Got it!
 
Lustle said:
Anyone running this setup with the rev-n-nator and firecore distributor using the fitech controlled timing? Just curious how it's running for you guys. That's what I got right now and I'd like to keep it on there.
Click to expand...

i too would like to know
 
I have done a 1/4 mile test.
I ran my engine with a quick fuel 750 blow through and was running a best time of 11.8
I brought the 1200hp fitech model as needed the bigger one for my engine. I like the option of adding e85 or nitros or upping the boost too as soon as I work my moving timing problem (pain in the butt for me at the moment).
I felt like I had more torque down low and less HP up top but once my family went for a drive with me they said they thought I was just getting used to the power as it was still the same. so I took it to the track.
So the other night I set the timing exactly the same as I had with the quick fuel and ran 11.8 again.
But obviously I had no dyno costs or any tuning to do. Just bolted it on and away I went. Once I sort out my timing I am upping the boost and trying e85
 
Johnny Pace said:
5. Onto timing control....in theory, should a locked oe distributor work? yep. Does reusing a ten year old mag pickup, with a non phasable distributor rotor, cause issues for a shade tree mechanic? Yes, regularly.
Click to expand...

There goes my plan, I'll still try it whenever the unit shows up, but I was really hoping to not have to buy a new distributor. I have a stock unit out of a '73 currently locked out running a 6A box with no issues at all. I was hoping there would be no issue running the same dizzy with the Fitech but it doesn't sound like I'll be that lucky.
 
72Duster440 said:
There goes my plan, I'll still try it whenever the unit shows up, but I was really hoping to not have to buy a new distributor. I have a stock unit out of a '73 currently locked out running a 6A box with no issues at all. I was hoping there would be no issue running the same dizzy with the Fitech but it doesn't sound like I'll be that lucky.
Click to expand...

Its hit or miss. You're welcome to try it...I just can't with certainty say it will be trouble free.

you luckily have a box already, so you have an option to keep what you have, let it do timing/spark, and let the fitech run in fuel only.

IF you are set on dumping the box, and want the unit to do timing. Like i said i'm working on getting in a $100 distributor that uses MSD style reluctor and rotor...so we have a cheap option for all of you.

trying to be as helpful as i can.
 
For $100 or so, it will be a no brainer to just upgrade, even though mine works, I'm sure it's somewhat worn out since it is 43 years old. I assume it'll be similar to the 440Source one, which is also about that same price?
 
72Duster440 said:
For $100 or so, it will be a no brainer to just upgrade, even though mine works, I'm sure it's somewhat worn out since it is 43 years old. I assume it'll be similar to the 440Source one, which is also about that same price?
Click to expand...

mine will have the same internals as an MSD, despite being "private label" so yes...i'd say so.
 
yup, shouldn't be a problem. give me a few days and i'll have them up.
 
Good deal. I ordered their kit but it's on back order. I was looking at this pump as an option but wanted to hear some reviews first. What type of fittings did you buy?

65goldcuda said:
One other thing I would add. I HATED the fuel command center in my engine compartment (mostly because I didn't have enough room to mount it down low and so it was flush with the top of my radiator and it just kind of ruined the Nostalgic look of the engine) and..I had some problems getting it set up..

SO>>>>> HERE IS SOMETHING THAT MAY HELP FUTURE BUYERS OF THIS SYSTEM. Summit sells this 255lph 60PSI in-line electric fuel pump for $135, (plus a $20 kit to install) AND IT WORKS GREAT! I mounted it about 12" from my tank on the frame rail (I had to remove a 6" section of my stock steel fuel line) and used high pressure 3/8 rubber fuel hose and clamps to make all the connections. THat steel line dumps out into my fender well, and I convert back to rubber, plus 1 large in-line fuel filter, and the fine filter that comes from FITECH that they want you to put right in front of the throttle body. All using the high pressure fuel injection rated fuel hose. It works great, and restored my engine back to the way it looks, and it will save you $350 instead of buying the Fuel Command Center. Oh for the return, I ran that 3/8 line back from the throttle body under my car back into the trunk and into the filler neck, I use a 90degree elbow t shoot the fuel back down my filler neck into the tank. It works great.

Also one more thing...the electric water temp sensor (included with the system) was showing 30-40 degrees cooler than my mechanical water temp sensor, so I moved it from the rear port of the intake manifold to the front, and now they read the same...

Here are the summit part numbers and a link.

VPN-GSL392BX
Fuel Pump, Electric, External, High Pressure, 255 lph, Each
(Mfr. #: GSL392BX)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-GSL392BX


Mount Kit, Steel, Isolator, Electric Fuel Pump, Fittings, Electrical Connections, Rubber Sleeve, Kit
(Mfr. #: 400-939)



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-400-939
Click to expand...
 
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