FiTech EFI system

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No dice on the Dfco adjustments. I even disabled it, still didn't get rid of the tip-in bog.

I'll have to get ahold of FItech and see what they say. I'd bet if I could access the tipout functions, I could iron it out.
 
Have you tried increasing the accel settings, and or changing the accel decay, for the different temp settings? or does yours not have access to accel decay that either.

I used to have the slight tipin of the accel pedal lean spikes too, but the increase in accel pump settings got rid of that

As indicated in another post, if the WOT AFR readings are going too rich after increasing the accel settings, the WOT AFR should be able to be changed to compensate ??
 
I've got accel decay, but in my logs there's no 'transient' value for when it goes super lean.

I've played with the accel pumps settings, and it only seems to make a difference with slightly larger tip-in values than where I'm experiencing the problem. When I max the gain and max the accel pump, just to see what if any effect it would have, my AFR's will drop into the high 9's, but then correct back to the target WOT AFR's within 2-3 seconds. So I know it's hitting the target WOT AFRs no problem, and only 'missing' them when I have accel settings too high or too low.

My cruise AFR has been tried at 12.9~14.9 - and the lean spike shows up in all of them to about the same extent. I've reduced the decay values and will continue to reduce them to see if it will lessen the issue - but as I mentioned, the log shows no transient fueling.

Another thing possibly worth trying is the learn speed value. I reduced it at idle to even it out and keep the AFR swings manageable, but the learn value seems to add 'momentum' to the fuel trim changes, and when my AFRs are headed lean, it takes until several revs after the spike goes away for the 'learn %' to swing the other way. I'll give it a shot over the next few days and see what I get.
 
I wonder if it has anything to do with the balance between the primary and secondary throttle plates? Just wondering.
 
This is the only thing keeping me from falling completely in love with this system. I too wondered if you could adjust the secondary butterflies to open less or something to allow in less air.
 
Does anybody run this with a long duration cam? (280+) How are the idle characteristics, I am only pulling 7 - 8 inches of vacuum at idle (1200 rpm)
 
72Duster440 said:
Does anybody run this with a long duration cam? (280+) How are the idle characteristics, I am only pulling 7 - 8 inches of vacuum at idle (1200 rpm)
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I have 5in of vacuum at 1100 rpm and starts cold and idles fine. my car has 4 sp so I don't know if torq converter would make a diferance. I took off a fast ez1 pos love the fitech
 
I know this has been asked a couple of times but I saw no clear answer. Where did everyone find a good place for the white wire 12v key on and crank. BTW I am temporarily running factory electronic ignition with ballast resistor until its up and running then letting fitech control timing.
Thanks
Plus I got it from johnny at pace, no issues ordering there except a 2 week wait.
 
71ChallengerSE said:
I know this has been asked a couple of times but I saw no clear answer. Where did everyone find a good place for the white wire 12v key on and crank. BTW I am temporarily running factory electronic ignition with ballast resistor until its up and running then letting fitech control timing.
Thanks
Plus I got it from johnny at pace, no issues ordering there except a 2 week wait.
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I hooked mine to the 12v side of the resistor works fine
 
The problem with using progressive secederys after a weekend of testing is the injectors don't know the throttle plates are not opening and keep pumping fuel.

In the end it cant be done...Its 1 to 1.. like it or not..And I don't care for it...at this time..
My secondary shaft will almost not move when the car is running.
When its not running there is play up-down and you can move it by hand without effort..NOT so when running......Makes it hard to drive............
As a side note this is my 3rd throttle body all with totally different issues..

The old 750 is looking better every min.
 
I ordered up a Go EFI 8 and it finally arrived last week. I am re-hashing some of my wiring at the same time so the install is taking a bit longer, but its still snowing here, so I've got time. I aim to get it fired up controlling fuel only this week. The carb was dialed in pretty well, so we'll see what benefits the FITech can provide...

Once I get it sorted, I'll try to post my settings. Perhaps we could start a database of sorts.
 
71ChallengerSE said:
What brand distributor is everyone using with the timing control? Phasing the rotor?
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if you're looking to push the timing control to the peak... these (assuming SB)

PRO SERIES 2 WIRE DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

MSD PHASABLE ROTOR FOR PRO-SERIES BILLET DISTRIBUTORS

do not try locking out an OE unit. period. they have too many electronic noise issues

in theory....if your engine's initial timing is over 15 degrees, and the unit throws full cruise advance at your engine, it can spark jump. (without rotor phasing) we have never seen or heard of this happening. and if it did, youd simply bump down your max timing at cruise a few degrees.

pm me or contact me below if i can help further!
 
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Johnny Pace said:
if you're looking to push the timing control to the peak... these (assuming SB)
http://paceperformance.com/i-22333783-msd-ignition-billet-distributor-8534.html
http://paceperformance.com/i-22333262-msd-ignition-adjustable-race-rotor-84211.html

or...lock out a stock unit, or i believe some have opted for a parts store lean burn unit, which come fully locked.

in theory....if your engine's initial timing is over 15 degrees, and the unit throws full cruise advance at your engine, it can spark jump. (without rotor phasing) we have never seen or heard of this happening. and if it did, youd simply bump down your max timing at cruise a few degrees.

pm me or contact me below if i can help further!
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Well I started without the timing control running fuel only and the factory electronic ignition that ran great with the carb but the fitech only ran maybe 4 times for 50 cranks. When it runs it runs well and will idle forever, but once I shut it off and try to start it again it'll never run. It fires but immediately stalls. Completely fed up with this I swapped in a lean burn distributor and tried to let the fitech control timing but once the lean burn is plugged in there is no spark. And occasionally the handheld says 615rpm annd the injectors fire like its running but the engine is not.
 
Also when I went through the initial setup the computer never holds the engine cid value at 318. I submit that value to the ecu and back out it changes to 317 everytime.
 
Be glad to exchange some tuning emails and trouble shooting if so.
 
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They are local. Just called to get them out to the Spring Fling show next week.

I talked to them at the Grand National Roadster Show and they sounded very interested in comming.

If anyone would like to talk to them in person at the show please contact me [email protected] Or if you'd come IF you could talk to them. That feedback helps get them to the show
 
71ChallengerSE said:
Also when I went through the initial setup the computer never holds the engine cid value at 318. I submit that value to the ecu and back out it changes to 317 everytime.
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Mine did similar with my 408. Enter 408 and it would later show 407, so I just entered 409 and now reads 408.

Also had trouble with starting then dying once warmed up. Eventually it started straightening out. Swap to timing controlled and it's back but worse. I just need to find time to call FiTech and troubleshoot.
 
just wondering are problems starting to pop up on these or is it out of the norm owner want's - needs
 
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