FiTech EFI system

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Got my GoEFI8 fired up in fuel only for the time being. Started tinkering with the set points, but I will let it learn some before I mess with any corrections. The carb was always dialed in fairly well, but no choke made the car a bit cold blooded. Instant improvement at cold start. I'll never escape smelling fuel at idle, just the nature of the cam...
 
Some information :: for any of you who have either had some fuel coming out of the vent line, or have read the concerns over on other websites, I was talking to FITECH last week.

My command center is in a tight engine bay and despite using a reflective material wrapped around the fuel sump, it gets quite warm . If I let mine idle for a while, fuel will spit out the vent. My vent line was t'd into the existing 1965 vent line and fuel should have run back into the tank.. Sometimes though, it would make it's way out the original steel line and out onto the ground. I have relocated a fitting further down the filler pipe to encourage any excess fuel to return to the tank.

Obviously I was looking for solutions .

Fitech suggested going into the "pro tuning" settings and reduce the PWMlowflow( under fuel pump control) to "40"

This setting , they said, will slow the submerged pump down on idle and during light cruise, and may reduce the amount of heat in the sump. I will be testing mine to see if the amount of fuel spitting out the top is reduced.

I am also considering lowering the input float, if the vent spitting continues. The spitting itself seems to pulse, like from the pulsing of the mechanical pump, so I have concerns that this may be float related.. BTW I have a regulator on the line coming in set at 5.5.

Has anyone taken one of these fuel centers apart to see how they are set up ?

Ken
 
71duster06 said:
Good deal. I ordered their kit but it's on back order. I was looking at this pump as an option but wanted to hear some reviews first. What type of fittings did you buy?
Click to expand...

Just making sure you saw the link to the fitting kit I ordered, it has the fittings for the pump, plus a foam sleeve to put over the pump, and a bracket to mount it to your frame rail. FITECH provides all the other fittings you will need.
 
I have JUST confirmed the MSD phasable rotor IS a 100% go. on My Pro Series- Pro billet distributor.

anyone can however, also go with my HEI's and operate in fuel only..or with a 400 or 800.


PRO SERIES 2 WIRE DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP



And you need the MSD rotor for phasing.
MSD PHASABLE ROTOR FOR PRO-SERIES BILLET DISTRIBUTORS



ANY of the other distributors found here
Distributors

Can only be used with a 400, 800, or when running a 600 or 1200 in fuel only.

the cheaper pro-billet, that is not the "PRO series" does NOT accept the msd phasable rotor!
 
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QMopar said:
Do you have a big block version?
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MY big block pro billets are "ready to run" so you need to swap the module when you lock it out (if you are doing timing control) otherwise they will work with any of the units in fuel only.

440
PRO SERIES READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR BB 413/426/440 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

383
PRO SERIES READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR BB 383/400 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

2 wire module

PRO SERIES DISTRIBUTOR | MAGNETIC PICKUP

inexpensive HEI's for NON timing control only

READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR BB 413/426/440 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR BB 413/426/440 | V8 ENGINE | BLUE CAP
 
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Quick question about iac adjustment. With my car in park at operating temperature, the iac stays between 5 and 10. When I put the car in drive, it jumps almost to 40. Should I adjust it in drive?
 
I would say no. If you adjust it in drive when you put it in neutral the RPM's will rise and the IAC only has 5-10 steps till close to work with to slow it down, when you already know you need 30-35 steps
 
I ordered the 800 hp one, and just got a firecore distributor(regular, not their ready to run race type version) and rev-n-nator ecu. Hopefully everything jives? It's going on a brand new 470" stroker. Still haven't started it up. Think I'm going to break it in with my carb and then switch over. Don't want to run into any problems on cam break in.
 
Can you get the female style cap? I'd be interested, but don't want to add the cost of a whole new wire set when I just got new wires.





Johnny Pace said:
I have JUST confirmed the MSD phasable rotor IS a 100% go. on the PACE/TSP Pro Series- Pro billet distributor.

anyone can however, also go with ANY of the others and operate in fuel only..or with a 400 or 800.


And just to be 100% clear...the phasable, lockable SB distributors are these two...

http://paceperformance.com/i-238406...-billet-electronic-distributor-black-cap.html

http://paceperformance.com/i-238406...ro-billet-electronic-distributor-red-cap.html

And you need the MSD rotor for phasing.
http://paceperformance.com/i-22333262-msd-ignition-adjustable-race-rotor-84211.html

ANY of the other distributors found HERE!
Can only be used with a 400, 800, or when running a 600 or 1200 in fuel only.

the cheaper pro-billet, that is not the "PRO series" does NOT accept the msd phasable rotor!
Click to expand...
 
two questions.

If I am right around 600 hp in a twin turbo 383 should I step up to the 1200 hp version or will I be okay with the 600 hp version

Will the 400 hp version be okay on a 180 hp stock style early hemi? is there a minimum hp on the 400 hp version?
 
russhal said:
Quick question about iac adjustment. With my car in park at operating temperature, the iac stays between 5 and 10. When I put the car in drive, it jumps almost to 40. Should I adjust it in drive?
Click to expand...

From what I have learned in talking with them, IAC is adjusted in park/ neutral at idle.
 
nitrohemi said:
Will the 400 hp version be okay on a 180 hp stock style early hemi? is there a minimum hp on the 400 hp version?
Click to expand...

I bought the 400 hp version to use on a stout slant 6, est at least 200 hp. If it doesn't work out I'll fall back to my triple Webers.
 
340, have the Fi-tech with timing control, just got a new set of plug wires and don't want to buy a whole new set.
 
Man, no love for the big block yet. I have an MSD 6 with my timing locked out, the car used to be setup for the strip. I wanted to unlock it and make it a little more streetable, which is why I was interested in the timing control portion of this. I didn't really want to spend $350 on a new distributor, of if I know it'll work, maybe it's worth it. I think I'll run it in fuel only for a while to make sure I'm happy with it, then grab the pro billet.

Any word on when you'll be getting more of the 600 ones in stock, I think it has been 2 weeks since I ordered it.
 
72Duster440 said:
Man, no love for the big block yet. I have an MSD 6 with my timing locked out, the car used to be setup for the strip. I wanted to unlock it and make it a little more streetable, which is why I was interested in the timing control portion of this. I didn't really want to spend $350 on a new distributor, of if I know it'll work, maybe it's worth it. I think I'll run it in fuel only for a while to make sure I'm happy with it, then grab the pro billet.

Any word on when you'll be getting more of the 600 ones in stock, I think it has been 2 weeks since I ordered it.
Click to expand...

see post 711
 
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I've been having a weird problem lately. It will be idling and then all of a sudden the IAC count will shoot up and it will go from like 800 rpm to 1300 rpm's and then go back down. Seems to stop once it's at running temp of 180-190, but before that it's kind of annoying.
 
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