FiTech EFI system

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See my post above, would recommend it in a second. I dont have to take apart my old carb several times over a weekend to cure my desire to get it running perfect.
Tuning from the drivers seat is way more fun

Tomorrow morning, i am going to turn on the ignition, press the start button, then drive away without warming it up, and not worrying about it stalling. Just like my new car, but WAY more cool.

Ken

Thanks for the feedback!

Sal
 
sorry pushed wrong button..but yes I would buy fitech again I have refered friends to them I have put 1000 miles on mine with small adjustments and love it.i took off a fast ez1 POS that took 3 years to tune where I got along but was not happy.the fitech was so easy to install with timing control and fuel command center.look at pictures of holley sniper its identical to fitech that tells me holley thinks fitech is on to something.tech support is great.buy one I think you will be happy

Thanks!
 
Anyone want to buy a command center ? I will sale it for 300 shipped here in the states hooked up and ran for hour at the most they are 395 new I will take the hit to run single pump ( sale pending )
 
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I got mine installed the other day, I replaced the dizzy as well and I still need to set the timing. While it is at an idle, it doesn't sound like it's firing on all 8, although checking the temp of the primaries they all we're the same temp so I think it's loading up. While it was idling it only took about 30 seconds until my eyes were burning so bad I had to shut it off. The A/F read correctly, my thoughts are I have an exhaust leak and it's sucking in some air, causing the computer to throw more fuel at it. Does this sound possible?
 
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Morning,
In good, better, best style order. we have had success with the pumps below.

Holley 12-800 only downfall is the -10AN inlet...pretty overkill for EFI, so i'd mount it as close to the tank as possible. (cut down on -10 line)800 efi HP
HP Fuel Pump Holley Performance 12-800 - Pace Performance Parts

Aeromotive A750 I'm a big aeromotive fan, and thats what i run in my cars. -8 in, -6 out. up to 700 hp EFI
Aeromotive - AEI - AEI11103 - A750 Fuel Pump (black)

Holley 12-890 - supports more HP, and only has -8AN in/out. 900 hp efi
HP In-Line Billet Fuel Pump Holley Performance 12-890 - Pace Performance Parts

Aeromotive A1000 monster -10 in/out. but room for expansion in the future.
Aeromotive - AEI - AEI11101 - FUEL PUMP
thanks Johnny , so the mean street says it has a built in regulator so I don't have to run the regulator that the Aeromtive suggest ?
 
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othanks Johnny , so the mean street says it has a built in regulator so I don't have to run the regulator that the Aeromtive suggest ?
I assume you are looking at the a1000 with the mean street. I have heard but never seen the internal regulator can be overpowered by a monster like the a1000. You dont have to run that regulator...but wouldn't hurt to run one inline.

EFI BILLET ALUMINUM FUEL PRESSURE BYPASS REGULATOR | 40-75 PSI | 3/8


Or...

EFI BILLET ALUMINUM FUEL PRESSURE BYPASS REGULATOR | 40-75 PSI | 3/8
 
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Good morning Johnny Pace

Is the PAC-30004-FC - 600HP power adder with fuel command center in stock and available now or is there lead time with an order?
 
Good morning Johnny Pace

Is the PAC-30004-FC - 600HP power adder with fuel command center in stock and available now or is there lead time with an order?
Im probably at least 4 weeks out on anything with a fcc, as they have undergone a small production change that we were just made aware of. Nothing major. Just a small revision. Also as I have said from the start, fitech fills my orders before any other vendors, so I am always the fastest way to one...despite the lead time. I know I have the individual frame rail pumps in stock.
Let me check on the others monday.
 
Im probably at least 4 weeks out on anything with a fcc, as they have undergone a small production change that we were just made aware of. Nothing major. Just a small revision. Also as I have said from the start, fitech fills my orders before any other vendors, so I am always the fastest way to one...despite the lead time. I know I have the individual frame rail pumps in stock.
Let me check on the others monday.
Okay, thanks.
We have talked already via email and on the phone. My email is the same as my nic @ hotmail. You can respond here or there...which ever you prefer. I will most likely pull the trigger as soon as I hear from you. I'll try the FBO ignition first with timing control, if that doesn't work I'll be getting an HEI system from you next. I'm just wondering if my stock tach will work with the HEI units...
 
Okay, thanks.
We have talked already via email and on the phone. My email is the same as my nic @ hotmail. You can respond here or there...which ever you prefer. I will most likely pull the trigger as soon as I hear from you. I'll try the FBO ignition first with timing control, if that doesn't work I'll be getting an HEI system from you next. I'm just wondering if my stock tach will work with the HEI units...
Ok yes I remember, id probably go pro-billet in case you want to try timing in the future. But thats up to you. I just had another customer buy one of the hei units and like it. However you want to tackle it.
 
hey guys, I'm not a old school mopar guy but I'm running the same unit on my blow thru 68 mustang with the battery in the trunk. I have tried everything fitech has suggested and i'm still not coming up with a solid fix. The ecu unit keeps cutting out while driving down the road. I've noticed its better with a fully charged battery, but the unit shouldn't be running off my battery. The alternator is putting 13.8v while running. I've grounded the efi unit to the battery. I've added a ground strap for the front of the engine block, welded a stud to the frame at the rear to ground the battery. I checked my key switched source, It has 12 or move volts.

Are any of you guys running a battery in the trunk? I also seem to get the white screen a lot on start up. I have to unplug the hand held and it will work fine again.
I have also tried a different battery, I have a yellow top right now. Any suggestions would be great I only have 144 miles on it and I've reset it and reuploaded the software 14 miles ago. When the unit shuts off all the gauges on the screen go blank but the back light still stays lite up.


 
Just going to ask the obvious questions?

Is the red ( large) power wire hooked at the battery in the trunk? Is the white your keyed line? Almost sounds like your keyed line has a break( intermittent) like maybe in the ignition switch.

If the main power is to the battery, run a separate line from the battery to a temporary switch which you can turn on manually.. Might help isolate the issue. I got the white screen, once , when i did not have a proper feed to the main feed from the battery.

My Alternator is pushing about 14.7 when running, 13.9 at idle. I have my battery ground, running all the way back to the starter stud 0 gauge.

Sounds like your ground is fine. I have my battery in the trunk BTW.
 
so my big red wire is connected to the solenoid hot side. (where my battery cable comes from the rear is connected to) I think I'm going to run it straight to the battery. The white is hooked up to the switched source (which is off the ignition pretty much) Ill try and run another wire (temporary) white wire to the battery as well. I gotta figure it out it's driving me nuts.
 
I tried running my red line from a central power post, and then I had your symptoms.. I think moving it right to the battery with a fuse should solve the power issue.
 
Ended Last Month. But pace performance will still do his forum 5 percent off if you call Johnny directly. great guy to deal with, as you should see on this thread. Helped me on a ton of parts for my scamp!
is the rebate still available
 
Mine has been running pretty good but wanted a better idle when dead cold and hot as well as a better start-up when hot. Played with a few settings that I thought were IAC related and made things much worse! Now could not even get it to start last night when hot....:eek:( Beginning to think this setup is not for me as I am not very techy....:eek:(
Might see a 600Hp unit and FCC on the add page very soon!
 
Mine has been running pretty good but wanted a better idle when dead cold and hot as well as a better start-up when hot. Played with a few settings that I thought were IAC related and made things much worse! Now could not even get it to start last night when hot....:eek:( Beginning to think this setup is not for me as I am not very techy....:eek:(
Might see a 600Hp unit and FCC on the add page very soon!

I responded to your PM a while back and never heard anything else about it (unless i missed it during the site changeover). Why don't you send me an email at work, I'll involve fitech if needed, and we can get it hammered out for you. I haven't seen many issues with these that a few emails can't sort out. Hate to see someone contemplating abandoning the unit when I'm only an email away.
 
Just got around to trying a couple things last night from your email but did not help so tried some stuff from other posters and made it worse.
I will try you at work when I get back to it; probably not until next week.
Is there a way to re-boot the system to start from scratch again??
 
Just got around to trying a couple things last night from your email but did not help so tried some stuff from other posters and made it worse.
I will try you at work when I get back to it; probably not until next week.
Is there a way to re-boot the system to start from scratch again??

Load the file named (default T195.) Once this is written to the ECU you are back to factory.
 
Not starting because fuel pump does not seem to be working in FCC. Have 6lbs going in but nothing coming out?? Will try to start if I put a little gas down throttle body.
Help please!!
 
Not starting because fuel pump does not seem to be working in FCC. Have 6lbs going in but nothing coming out?? Will try to start if I put a little gas down throttle body.
Help please!!
Run jumper wire to the positive terminal on fcc. To see if it is at all the fcc causing issues...
Did u reset it as described above?? Are u getting s tach readout?
What prompted it not worwking from yesterday.
 
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I want to make a statement real quick that the vent line on the FCC NEEDS to be ran to a WORKING vent. and INTO THE TANK. THe vent is not OPTIONAL, and not to be ran to a charcoal canister. It 100% needs ran to the tank, and to be a vented system.

I have had two individuals get all worked up over FCC "issues" recently, and it turns out that neither of them had the vent line properly routed. and this was the cause of issues. it was corrected, and it fixed 100% of the issues they were having. (these were not customers from FABO...so this is NOT directed at anyone)

one individual had it routed into a factory vent line, that turns out had been blocked with sediment for probably 40 years.

another replaced the tank vent line, with the FCC vent. this does NOT make it a vented system...you're pushing fumes into a completely sealed tank at that point unless by mere chance, it vents through the cap. which is NOT adequate.

thats my public service announcement for the day. :)
 
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