FiTech EFI system

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I placed an order for my system a few nights ago and I'm eagerly awaiting its arrival.

I think this kit would greatly improve the SL6's manners with any intake, clifford, Aussie, Offy, better atomization and adjusting on the fly if you begin wetting her down.
Distributors are just as plentiful for the SL6 as the SBM, and with the internal timing, you just lock it out, so no tinkering with springs and vacuum.

I'm thinking it will be money well spent.
 
65 Dartman said:
I am building a pretty stout slant (90 thou off the deck 10 off the head, 30 over pistons, Oregon cam grind 346, 9.5 static compression ratio etc. along with a 4 speed. I bought the basic model with timing control. I too have thought about the slant's fuel distribution issues it's possible the Offy 4 barrel might have similar issues. After I break the motor it with the Offy and a known good carb, I plan on switching to the FiTech. If for some reason there's problems with the Offy, I will switch to a Dutra Hyperpac with it's more or less equal length runners. And if needed, I will fall back to Plan C - a triple Weber setup. Set up correctly, Webers meter fuel almost as precise as FI. We shall see!View attachment 1714938823 View attachment 1714938824
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Quite the majestic pair of old weiners you have there... Doxies are the best
 
JoeSBP said:
I placed an order for my system a few nights ago and I'm eagerly awaiting its arrival.

I think this kit would greatly improve the SL6's manners with any intake, clifford, Aussie, Offy, better atomization and adjusting on the fly if you begin wetting her down.
Distributors are just as plentiful for the SL6 as the SBM, and with the internal timing, you just lock it out, so no tinkering with springs and vacuum.

I'm thinking it will be money well spent.
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I bought a new distributor off eBay that would have been used originally on a stationary application - no vacuum or mechanical advance. It should be perfect to let the FiTech unit control timing!
 
65 Dartman said:
I bought a new distributor off eBay that would have been used originally on a stationary application - no vacuum or mechanical advance. It should be perfect to let the FiTech unit control timing!
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one from a tug off an industrial SL6?
 
I can't make anyone take my advice, but I can't stress enough how much these units functionality is based on a clear tach signal, which 90% of the time, is not something the OE igniton can provide. It's also being completely ignored that the phasable rotor is listed by fitech as required. There are a few guys out here that have gotten the stock-ish setups to work, however i have had probably ten guys who told me they wanted to try the OE distributor first, call me back later and purchase one of my ready to run, or pro-billet distributors. ya'll can take that with a grain of salt. but i want to throw is back to the masses, as it appears it's been ignored or forgotten. I speak to the owner of fitech ever week or so...this isn't hogwash. if you want to use an OE distributor, then you'll need an aftermarket CDI box from which the unit can pull a clean tach signal. Thats my 2 cents.
 
will the Proform be adequate? It uses the same pick-up as the OE electronic..
 
JoeSBP said:
will the Proform be adequate? It uses the same pick-up as the OE electronic..
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not in my opinion, no. far too many guys have had issues with "new" factory style distributors and blue/orange/chrome mopar boxes for me to endorse that setup in any way. Fitech will simply refer you to the section of the instructions where it blatantly states the phasable rotor, and the pro billet distributor is required if you have tech issues with it.
 
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Haven't read thru this whole thread, but I recently purchased the FiTech 600 HP version from Pace, who by the way were really great to work with, having installed the unit without timing control just to get a feel for it has been a bit challenging, but I am making progress. So yesterday I decided to get ambitious and enable timing control. Following the manual, I rotated the engine to my desired initial timing 16* and locked out my distributor, installed and phased my rotor clockwise to 10*, changed the wiring on my MSD 6AL then tried to start the car, won't start. It does try to fire, but coughs thru the throttle body. Obviously something is not right with the timing. I went back and double checked everything and followed the directions to the T, even rotating my engine to 10* initial and phasing the rotor the same way, still nothing.

Looking for some help here from anyone that may have had the same experience and how they resolved it. I sent an email to FiTech, but they are little slow in responding and I want to get his addressed sooner than later.
 
mpdm3 said:
Haven't read thru this whole thread, but I recently purchased the FiTech 600 HP version from Pace, who by the way were really great to work with, having installed the unit without timing control just to get a feel for it has been a bit challenging, but I am making progress. So yesterday I decided to get ambitious and enable timing control. Following the manual, I rotated the engine to my desired initial timing 16* and locked out my distributor, installed and phased my rotor clockwise to 10*, changed the wiring on my MSD 6AL then tried to start the car, won't start. It does try to fire, but coughs thru the throttle body. Obviously something is not right with the timing. I went back and double checked everything and followed the directions to the T, even rotating my engine to 10* initial and phasing the rotor the same way, still nothing.

Looking for some help here from anyone that may have had the same experience and how they resolved it. I sent an email to FiTech, but they are little slow in responding and I want to get his addressed sooner than later.
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This method has worked for me : Phase your rotor without using timing control, with a hole in the cap. I found my MP Mallory style distributor has the rotor in line with the spark plug tower at about 30 degrees advance. If it looks good, it is phased.

Then set your initial at 16 degrees. Lock it there. leave the rotor alone . Tell the fitech system your initial is 16. See if it starts. If it does, then confirm that the timing displayed on the fitech handheld, matches your timing light. rev it to about 2000 rpm.. confirm the timing still matches. (I found the 10 degree instructions confusing..)
 
ken5124 said:
This method has worked for me : Phase your rotor without using timing control, with a hole in the cap. I found my MP Mallory style distributor has the rotor in line with the spark plug tower at about 30 degrees advance. If it looks good, it is phased.

Then set your initial at 16 degrees. Lock it there. leave the rotor alone . Tell the fitech system your initial is 16. See if it starts. If it does, then confirm that the timing displayed on the fitech handheld, matches your timing light. rev it to about 2000 rpm.. confirm the timing still matches. (I found the 10 degree instructions confusing..)
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Not sure I am following what your suggesting. I have an MSD Pro Billet distributor and I probably lack the skills to determine if my rotor is 30 degrees advanced, not even sure how I would know this.
 
mpdm3 said:
Not sure I am following what your suggesting. I have an MSD Pro Billet distributor and I probably lack the skills to determine if my rotor is 30 degrees advanced, not even sure how I would know this.
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What you want to be sure of, is that at about 30 degrees advance, the rotor lines up with the spark plug tower. To do that you would need to have a hole in your distributor cap. being that I do not have that type of distributor, Perhaps someone who does can assist you.
 
ken5124 said:
What you want to be sure of, is that at about 30 degrees advance, the rotor lines up with the spark plug tower. To do that you would need to have a hole in your distributor cap. being that I do not have that type of distributor, Perhaps someone who does can assist you.
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I think I understand what you are suggesting, where I lack the talent is understanding 30 degrees versus 1 degree. Assuming advance would put the rotor slightly before the #1 location on the cap?
 
mpdm3 said:
I think I understand what you are suggesting, where I lack the talent is understanding 30 degrees versus 1 degree. Assuming advance would put the rotor slightly before the #1 location on the cap?
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There are several good youtube videos, one from MSD that shows how to check your rotor phasing. While running the motor at higher rpm's ( when advance is all in), you shine a timing light at the distributor cap to see where the rotor is in relation to the tower, at that 30 degrees. hence the hole in the cap.
 
ken5124 said:
There are several good youtube videos, one from MSD that shows how to check your rotor phasing. While running the motor at higher rpm's ( when advance is all in), you shine a timing light at the distributor cap to see where the rotor is in relation to the tower, at that 30 degrees. hence the hole in the cap.
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Thank you for the info, a lot is predicated on the car running, which I am not there yet. If I set the rotor at 10* advanced as the directions show, I should not have to do this, I just don't have the skills for it. What is frustrating to me is following directions and have it not work.
 
ken5124 said:
I would get the fuel injection running without timing control first. Not sure if you did that.
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I did get the system running without timing and it ran OK, was making some adjustments with the help of Kirk at FiTech. I actually thought the timing control feature would be an easy and straight forward change given the directions were fairly clear. I had done this before on an Atomic system, at least it ran after I did it, not so lucky here.
 
mpdm3 said:
I did get the system running without timing and it ran OK, was making some adjustments with the help of Kirk at FiTech. I actually thought the timing control feature would be an easy and straight forward change given the directions were fairly clear. I had done this before on an Atomic system, at least it ran after I did it, not so lucky here.
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Sorry i dozed on this, been slammed the last few days.

i'm assuming you switched the input from Tach to 2-wire? is it reading any RPM? check for spark?
 
Johnny Pace said:
Sorry i dozed on this, been slammed the last few days.

i'm assuming you switched the input from Tach to 2-wire? is it reading any RPM? check for spark?
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Yes, switched from Tach to 2-wire (don't think it is called that anymore). Does have spark as it tried to fire a couple of times before backfiring thru the throttle body.
 
is it picking up the tach signal on the handheld? showing an RPM readout?
 
Hey Johnny
I have one more question for you . Do you sale a inline pump that is capable of feeding the mean street 800hp. my engine is producing 550 hp on dyno. I don't know if you remember me im running the two electric pumps and was thinking on sliming down the system
 
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