Found my dads original 1971 duster!

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Bennoel 10 said:
I believe the reference is between Dusters (70 and later) and Dart sport, Demon bodies (71 and later). The 67 to 76 Dart is much different.
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Based on the problems he is having, I bet he has Dart doors, not Dart Sport doors. And the "builder" tried to make Duster/Dart Sport glass work in a door that was supposed to have wing windows.
 
DionR said:
Based on the problems he is having, I bet he has Dart doors, not Dart Sport doors. And the "builder" tried to make Duster/Dart Sport glass work in a door that was supposed to have wing windows.
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Yes that could be true. Who knows what that so called "builder" did. I'm kinda hoping for the better.
 
Bennoel 10 said:
I believe that the Door felts or cat whiskers are the same for darts or dusters. The difference is between model years. The earlier say 70, 71 are held on with clips on the whiskers themselves as for the later say 72, 73, 74 are held on by difference method which I can't recall. I ran into this issue with 69 style vs 70 something on a dart door skin. The "builder" probably used the later doors as I believe the outer shell (skins) are the same. Hopefully someone else can confirm for you.
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Thanks for the info. Duster ones won’t work on darts because the slots stamped into the inside of dart door skins don’t line up with the clips on the duster felts. Even if they did, the slots stop part way up the door near the front of the door, because of the triangle pics of glass that the dart had in that location
Just wondering if there is a way to make them fit or put a different style on or something. It would be almost impossible to create slots on the inside of the door skin
 
Bennoel 10 said:
Yes that could be true. Who knows what that so called "builder" did. I'm kinda hoping for the better.
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I think you’re right. These dart doors were supposed to have the triangle piece of glass up front. Probably worse case scenario. Lol
 
dads71 said:
I think you’re right. These dart doors were supposed to have the triangle piece of glass up front. Probably worse case scenario. Lol
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Yeah couldn't get much worse. I do believe I know where a pair of doors are here in Toronto. A lot of work and expense to re-do but might be better off in the long run. I'm gonna see if they're still available just in case.
 
Bennoel 10 said:
Yeah couldn't get much worse. I do believe I know where a pair of doors are here in Toronto. A lot of work and expense to re-do but might be better off in the long run. I'm gonna see if they're still available just in case.
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That would be great. Because eventually I will be having the car redone and I want the proper doors. Thanks so much
 
Hey guys. Anyone have some good clear pics of a duster with a 727 transmission under the hood, at carb? I need to see how my kickdown/throttle cable should be. I’m being told that I possibly have the wrong mounting bracket, possibly wrong cable….and that my kickdown setup is wrong. Planned on taking the wife in for ice cream tonight for its maiden voyage….but I’m told I could risk ruining the transmission. Thanks guys

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That's the correct bracket, can't tell about the kick down rod though. Does it have a bend at the back?

The throttle return spring mount is way wrong, should line up with where the inside one is connected. But not the end of the world.

The kickdown is critical because it determines how much pressure the clutches see. If it isn't connected, the pressure isn't increased under full throttle and the clutches can slip and burn up. It also influences when the trans shifts.

Pretty sure there should be a spring from the tab on the kick down rod to the throttle stud to pull that up and close the gap on the slot. But it needs to be adjusted correctly after that.
 
DionR said:
That's the correct bracket, can't tell about the kick down rod though. Does it have a bend at the back?

The throttle return spring mount is way wrong, should line up with where the inside one is connected. But not the end of the world.

The kickdown is critical because it determines how much pressure the clutches see. If it isn't connected, the pressure isn't increased under full throttle and the clutches can slip and burn up. It also influences when the trans shifts.

Pretty sure there should be a spring from the tab on the kick down rod to the throttle stud to pull that up and close the gap on the slot. But it needs to be adjusted correctly after that.
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Ok. Thanks! If my bracket is the correct one, I must have the wrong gas pedal (throttle) cable. There is a lot of slack and not enough adjustment to allow for it. I’ll check and see if the kickdown rod has a bend at the back. I’m pretty sure it does
 
DionR said:
That's the correct bracket, can't tell about the kick down rod though. Does it have a bend at the back?

The throttle return spring mount is way wrong, should line up with where the inside one is connected. But not the end of the world.

The kickdown is critical because it determines how much pressure the clutches see. If it isn't connected, the pressure isn't increased under full throttle and the clutches can slip and burn up. It also influences when the trans shifts.

Pretty sure there should be a spring from the tab on the kick down rod to the throttle stud to pull that up and close the gap on the slot. But it needs to be adjusted correctly after that.
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It does have a bend. Then it hooks to a linkage. Here are some better angles

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dads71 said:
It does have a bend. Then it hooks to a linkage. Here are some better angles

View attachment 1716274838

View attachment 1716274839

View attachment 1716274840
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Yep, that’s the right one, or at least one that works right. The throttle return spring bracket at the front of the motor is way wrong, but could probably just be bent to at least line up.

For your cable, try loosening the clamp on the throttle bracket and pulling it back as far as possible. Looks like it should work, so I wonder if you are just getting the adjustment wrong.
 
DionR said:
Yep, that’s the right one, or at least one that works right. The throttle return spring bracket at the front of the motor is way wrong, but could probably just be bent to at least line up.

For your cable, try loosening the clamp on the throttle bracket and pulling it back as far as possible. Looks like it should work, so I wonder if you are just getting the adjustment wrong.
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Good morning. Thanks. Ya, I have a bit of adjustment on the throttle cable it looks like! That’s my plan for this morning. I’m thinking I have to get that set perfectly before adjusting the kickdown linkage
 
dads71 said:
Good morning. Thanks. Ya, I have a bit of adjustment on the throttle cable it looks like! That’s my plan for this morning. I’m thinking I have to get that set perfectly before adjusting the kickdown linkage
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Went looking for the cable adjustment procedure in the '70 service manual I have and looks like I already posted it. It's the last couple of steps in the snapshots I posted above. :)
 
DionR said:
Went looking for the cable adjustment procedure in the '70 service manual I have and looks like I already posted it. It's the last couple of steps in the snapshots I posted above. :)
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Haha! Thanks! Just adjusting it now. I think I have it pretty damn close
 
CFD244 said:


Watch this for some good info.
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Thanks! I watched that one, along with a few others. I have it all adjusted! i took the car out for a couple short test runs and it seems to be set up nicely!
Next on the agenda is a small leak from the transmission pan and my temp gauge stopped working. It worked on the first drive, but the needle didn’t move the next day, on the 2nd drive. Gonna check coolant level in the morning. I also have an exhaust leak up front on drivers side. I take the car to a shop this week for an alignment
 
Hey guys. Gonna try replacing my temp sensor and see if that fixes my temp gauge issue. I topped up coolant this morning and ran car for 10 min and gauge still didn’t move. Is it a sensor I can get at an auto parts store, or is it specific to a 71 duster…and needed to be ordered from a place like classic industries?
The current sensor has teflon tape on it, but it worked for the first few drives. Should I try taking it out and removing the tape, or just wait until I get a new one?
Also, after a 10-20 minute drive, my ear cap makes a slight hissing noise when I check under the hood. Is that normal? Thanks guys. Here’s a pic of the rad cap

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