Getting ready to swap a 5.7 into my 73 Dart Swinger

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The Srt Jeep manifolds work with the Alterkation after a little modifying of the drivers side mount but i don't remember hearing of anyone making them work with the stock K frame
 
I'm not with the car right now I cannot verify that this weekend I hope to buy about 10 ft of 304 stainless steel and finish off that driver side header seems to be my last bit holding me back I just got my wiring in the mail last night when I got back from work
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Sublime one said:
Go man go! Hundred ways to skin this cat! You can't be wrong since there is no OEM on this one! Slash weld and repeat!
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HAHAHAHAHA! Sublimeone! You are SO ******* right-on! I was a professional welder for the first 20 years out of high school. Metal instills no fear in this man!
Why can't I do this? The answer turns into step 1 of the journey. I get my tune right (electronics is my huge weakness) and plates on Tetanus, and Im DONE.
 
toplscuda said:
The Srt Jeep manifolds work with the Alterkation after a little modifying of the drivers side mount but i don't remember hearing of anyone making them work with the stock K frame
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There's a little room to work there I could definitely make a set of headers for this car with without modifying the TTI motor mounts and I'll be cutting it pretty close to the power steering but I would just like to know will the manual steering box give me any more clearance
 
Wish I had the answer for you. This is what i had to do to the drivers side mount on the alterkation to get it to fit
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toplscuda said:
Wish I had the answer for you. This is what i had to do to the drivers side mount on the alterkation to get it to fit
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Perhaps you could shed some insight on this I'm more of a backyard mechanic than anything else but if I didn't have the push rods in and I crank over the engine or actually tighten up the crank pulley bolt to tighten in the pulley can I cause any damage to the head gaskets or anything cuz it seems like maybe one of the cylinders is slowly letting air leak out
 
In my thinking I would not think so. It does basically the same thing on the compression stroke. Some air is going to escape in that situation be it a little past the rings if the cylinder walls are dry and it being cold or maybe a valve that has not sealed completely. If you thought it was excessive you could chuck an air compressor up through one of the spark plug holes at about 100psi and listen for where it is coming out. If you hear it coming out of the oil fill then it is some getting past the rings, a little is normal. Back through the intake would tell you an intake valve and out the exhaust would be the exhaust. Both of those should seal up tight. Of course that is advice from a backyard hack also :)
 
Vega73dart said:
There's a little room to work there I could definitely make a set of headers for this car with without modifying the TTI motor mounts and I'll be cutting it pretty close to the power steering but I would just like to know will the manual steering box give me any more clearance
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Yes, definitely more room with the manual box.
 
toplscuda said:
In my thinking I would not think so. It does basically the same thing on the compression stroke. Some air is going to escape in that situation be it a little past the rings if the cylinder walls are dry and it being cold or maybe a valve that has not sealed completely. If you thought it was excessive you could chuck an air compressor up through one of the spark plug holes at about 100psi and listen for where it is coming out. If you hear it coming out of the oil fill then it is some getting past the rings, a little is normal. Back through the intake would tell you an intake valve and out the exhaust would be the exhaust. Both of those should seal up tight. Of course that is advice from a backyard hack also :)
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It seem minuscule so I'm moving forward I tested of everything with the one n 3/4 pipe for the header just made two small little Cuts in it send them down made a rough angle to see if I could pass in between the steering and the the engine mount I can do it but I'm also going to use the one 5/8 tube 304 stainless steel drove out of my way to a metal shop that told me they had it they ended up not having it
 
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Vega73dart said:
It seem minuscule so I'm moving forward I tested of everything with the one in 3/8 pipe for the header just made two small little Cuts in it send them down made a rough angle to see if I could pass in between the steering and the the engine mount I can do it but I'm also going to use the one in 5/8 tube 304 stainless steel drove out of my way to a metal shop that told me they had it they ended up not having it
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I finally see why everyone's so wound up about motor mounts, TTI, spools, steering box... My spooles were pretty shot. Not surprising as the entire bottom looked like they used the car as a stump-jumper. 1 MM was fairly cracked and the other was welded at the factory, late on a Friday before a holiday with a hangover. I just wacked em both out. Put my MM where I wanted them. Y'all got some real battles going on :)
 
G50 said:
I finally see why everyone's so wound up about motor mounts, TTI, spools, steering box... My spooles were pretty shot. Not surprising as the entire bottom looked like they used the car as a stump-jumper. 1 MM was fairly cracked and the other was welded at the factory, late on a Friday before a holiday with a hangover. I just wacked em both out. Put my MM where I wanted them. Y'all got some real battles going on :)
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Yeah thanks for rubbing it in I was picking up a lot of momentum and now I'm stuck scratching a hole in my head I am considering going with a manual box just to get this done I'm so tired of working on this car and not driving it also the only material I seem to be able to find is 1 1/2 stainless steel or 2 in any input on what you guys think about 1 + 1/2 piping for the headers I see the main size that companies advertise is 1 5/8 + 1 3/ 4
 
Huge edit on this post I'm now in a torn position as the coupler to shorten the drive shaft is 125 alone plus the power steering unit plus whatever else may or may not be necessary I'm considering a manual steering box can anyone hear point me in the right direction I was looking at the wrong thing before I believe there was a company PST that made a manual steering box and said drastically increases header space but I'd like to see what everyone says I believe I am going manual at this point
 
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I just NOW got this notice but I see you've posted it a couple of weeks ago :-( If you've made up your mind, then it's done. THIS is the very reason that I moved my entire steering shaft away from the header area (about an inch). I used 2 3/4" swivel joints to accommodate the angle. It created a lot more room for header tubing. It was a lot of work and a difficult decision to jump into. I'm glad I did it tho.
Is your mind still made up?
Also, "tired of working on it and not driving it"? I was almost 3 years to the day and most of us old gear-heads are years into our projects. Have some patience :)

G50
 
G50 said:
I just NOW got this notice but I see you've posted it a couple of weeks ago :-( If you've made up your mind, then it's done. THIS is the very reason that I moved my entire steering shaft away from the header area (about an inch). I used 2 3/4" swivel joints to accommodate the angle. It created a lot more room for header tubing. It was a lot of work and a difficult decision to jump into. I'm glad I did it tho.
Is your mind still made up?
Also, "tired of working on it and not driving it"? I was almost 3 years to the day and most of us old gear-heads are years into our projects. Have some patience :)

G50
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Thank you so much for the wise words I didn't know that you guys had so much time invested into your projects with my Camaro things were more wham bam thank you ma'am kind of deal but this one seems to be dragging a little longer February all of had the car in a year my mind is pretty made up about the manual steering box but seriously you shed some light on how I need to be more patient on this project and I'll be cruising and racing in no time if I just don't lose my enthusiasm with frustration I'm going right now to finish up my floor plan try to find a gas pedal at the junkyard and move over my brake pedal
 
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compared to when I got the car the rear dent on the driver's side has had Miracles worked a little bit more and I'll be able to install the tail extension and do some shrinking and planishing on that panel on the low side of it it does have some rust holes that were repaired with Bondo I'll have to cut and replace the metal there. But otherwise to the car is coming along well lots of patience and lots of help from everyone thank you guys hopefully we'll be starting it in a couple weeks it's been a long journey still more to come does anyone know what a good quarter mile time for this car would be to start? I might race this car
 
Help!!! Im running out of spare parts haha
However above the starter there is a slot into the block with one single bolt that secures some kind of flange... I thought it was for the knock sensor but just dug those out of a box and installed them still no sign of the part that goes to the block just above the starter!!??? What am i missing???!!
 
Vega73dart said:
Help!!! Im running out of spare parts haha
However above the starter there is a slot into the block with one single bolt that secures some kind of flange... I thought it was for the knock sensor but just dug those out of a box and installed them still no sign of the part that goes to the block just above the starter!!??? What am i missing???!!
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Block heater.
Carry on with the build, buddy...

G50
 
Stuck, i need a new fuel regulator i think im seeing a ls1 regulator will get me 58psi. Now here is a question.. I have 03 injectors that are supposed to run on 48 psi +-2psi. The computer has been changed over to a 05 which says it requires 58psi +-2psi.. Right now my regulator is all over the place with psi and my gas tank was also super presurrized after trying to start the car.
Also someone mentioned keep an eye out for details about different tone rings on the 2 different years?
Currently its just cranking not starting everything has power and ground it is throwing 3 codes a believe for iac or too little air???... Pedal doesnt seem to move the throttle body but will it even move if the car isn't on? I read another forum saying only moves when car is on.
Otherthings im going to check for is
VATS- vehicle anti theft system i have heard both sides plenty that it does or doesnt have vats
Battery-stable 12v while cranking
And tps relearn
I have hp tuners but havent yet even figued out how to use it.. Learning as mush as i can
 
Vega73dart said:
Help!!! Im running out of spare parts haha
However above the starter there is a slot into the block with one single bolt that secures some kind of flange... I thought it was for the knock sensor but just dug those out of a box and installed them still no sign of the part that goes to the block just above the starter!!??? What am i missing???!!
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Heads up guy, mine needed two knock sensors not just one. And a small ignition filter attached to the back of both heads. Without them I got no love. Mine is a 2010 6.1 tho so may not even be relative? Love your progress. It is not for the faint of heart for sure! Well done good Sir!
 
When you key the ignition on your throttle body will do a self test this is done every time the computer turns on. Remove the battery lead for a minute put it back on hold down on your gas pedal turn the key to on , not start. Then key to off then start. This will learn your throttle position. Make sure your maf sensor is hooked up.
The regulator you need is a corvette filter/regulator.
 
loganscuda said:
When you key the ignition on your throttle body will do a self test this is done every time the computer turns on. Remove the battery lead for a minute put it back on hold down on your gas pedal turn the key to on , not start. Then key to off then start. This will learn your throttle position. Make sure your maf sensor is hooked up.
The regulator you need is a corvette filter/regulator.
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I hear the trottle body move i think i cant see cause this is a one man show here
Ill be getting a ls throttle body, as far as i remember the vette has a ls so i think i found the right one. Will the injectors both be the same 03 - 05
 
Here is the throttle body I used. I had to fabricate the CAI tho due to the increase in diameter of the throttle body. LS linkage Morphed from Lokar since I wanted to drive throttle mechanically. As you well know we make a lot of our own parts being we are non LS.

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