Help me find the umph in my 360

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I will never order from them ever. My last order they threw all my Stuff I ordered into a big box with no packaging bubble wrap or anything. It was so bad my yukon dura grip had bounced around so much in the box that it was sticking out of its box. I was super pissed. Summit has always been fantastic. Also with that howards cam with that 508 lift will my stock rockers be ok with that high of lift?
Replace the valve springs on one cylinder with light "checking" springs. You can get these at most any hardware store. Just hold the valves closed but not enough to collapse the lifters. Then use a dial indicator on the retainer and hand turn the engine to/through 20° BTDC to TDC and then on the other valve from TDC to 20° ATDC. This will tell what valve clearance you have now with you lift. The way to measure is every 5°, open the valve by operating the rocker arm until the retainer touches the stem seal or the valve touches the piston. This will inform how much valve to piston clearance you have and at what ° closest approach is. Depending on your pistons, 0.508" lift these days is not excessive. Older engines only used 0.350" to 0.400" as the spring technology was not as developed. Now you can run 0.600" on the street reliably, provided you double check all clearances and use recommended springs.
 
The person that built my 727 said that he would not guarantee it if I used a Lokar linkage. It simply don't provide the correct signal to the downshift lever to keep line pressure at the proper level.
As far as timing, I can see using more initial advance, but you must keep total advance to about 34° for a LA engine or you will lose power and risk detonation. The higher spark plug location in the LA chamber makes the flame front start from a more central location shortening the travel to the cylinder wall. Thus less timing needed for max power. Too much advance can lower power at full throttle and lead to detonation. All bad.
I also adhere to the advice of Rich Ehrenburg of Mopar Action. Double Pumpers are for race engines and have no place on the street. I learned this myself when much younger than now. The DP sucked fuel and will lead to increased cylinder wall wear and fuel dilution in the oil.
 
Well not consistently. This isn't going to be a race car.
stock cam is 5700 5800 in 1st depending on gears
that cam is 6000 6100 in 1st depending on gears etc
low end torque matters much more for a street car if you are not going to use the upper
its a waste if your comp is low you need all the help you can get having the cam match what the intended usage is
 
The person that built my 727 said that he would not guarantee it if I used a Lokar linkage. It simply don't provide the correct signal to the downshift lever to keep line pressure at the proper level.
As far as timing, I can see using more initial advance, but you must keep total advance to about 34° for a LA engine or you will lose power and risk detonation. The higher spark plug location in the LA chamber makes the flame front start from a more central location shortening the travel to the cylinder wall. Thus less timing needed for max power. Too much advance can lower power at full throttle and lead to detonation. All bad.
I also adhere to the advice of Rich Ehrenburg of Mopar Action. Double Pumpers are for race engines and have no place on the street. I learned this myself when much younger than now. The DP sucked fuel and will lead to increased cylinder wall wear and fuel dilution in the oil.
my virgin factory rings bearings 68 340 has had a 650 dp on it since 85k it ran 14.2 3@97 plus mph stock with the chit 68 carb and 3.23s 105k miles now much quicker with the 3.91s and 650 dp purs like a kitten starts 1/2 a crank
its not the carbs problem if people cant tune a carb
 
not gonna push past 5300.... wink wink.... i believe you :)
 
stock cam is 5700 5800 in 1st depending on gears
that cam is 6000 6100 in 1st depending on gears etc
low end torque matters much more for a street car if you are not going to use the upper
its a waste if your comp is low you need all the help you can get having the cam match what the intended usage is
The cam I just bought will be way better in lower rpm torque than my 1798 cam. Even with the 1798 cam it did decent burnouts with out even pushing much of the throttle.
 
yeah it should be a bit more fun to drive.. i went a little too big on my cam.. but if i get the chance i will be putting in a 3500 converter and already have 4.57 gears (but might switch for 3.55.. cause 4.57 is a party but my motor won't last long :) )
 
yeah it should be a bit more fun to drive.. i went a little too big on my cam.. but if i get the chance i will be putting in a 3500 converter and already have 4.57 gears (but might switch for 3.55.. cause 4.57 is a party but my motor won't last long :) )
My goal is take the stock 727 out next year and put the A41 package from silversport in next year. They will add the converter that matches your engine when you order the 4 speed overdrive. It's basically a built 4l60e that has a bell housing and converter that works for the small blocks.
 
My goal is take the stock 727 out next year and put the A41 package from silversport in next year. They will add the converter that matches your engine when you order the 4 speed overdrive. It's basically a built 4l60e that has a bell housing and converter that works for the small blocks.
ohhh i wish they made that for pushbutton.... i need to gather the parts for my trans can use a normal converter still
 
ohhh i wish they made that for pushbutton.... i need to gather the parts for my trans can use a normal converter still
Oh wow I didn't realize you had a push button car. Those are sweet. Yeah I have the b&m quicksilver shifter with the black chrome plating.
 
The cam I just bought will be way better in lower rpm torque than my 1798 cam. Even with the 1798 cam it did decent burnouts with out even pushing much of the throttle.

Just curious dustyaman, how old are you?

☆☆☆☆☆
 
Quench is nice to have if you can afford everything to get it, but is it the end all be all? No. Most Chrysler engines had no quench at all and they flat hauled the mail. It's just not that critical. Don't lose any sleep over it. Just build what you have and go have some fun. Want a quench engine and you can afford the build? Great. Go for it. But don't pull your hair out over the decision.
 
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Well I guess I didn't get so lucky after all I went ahead and checked again for a piece of mind with my parascope camera to verify again that my valves didn't hit the piston. I didn't see it the first check but this time I did. Well one did on my number 1 exhaust valve. Damn. Damn. damn.

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Might not be bent though. You'll need to remove the rockers and put air in the cylinders and see where the air exits. Through the exhaust a bent exhaust valve. Up through the carburetor, bent intake valve. Into the crankcase hole in piston or broken rings. Easy to diagnose. You might have gotten lucky and the hydraulic plunger in the lifters could have taken up the slack.
 
Might not be bent though. You'll need to remove the rockers and put air in the cylinders and see where the air exits. Through the exhaust a bent exhaust valve. Up through the carburetor, bent intake valve. Into the crankcase hole in piston or broken rings. Easy to diagnose. You might have gotten lucky and the hydraulic plunger in the lifters could have taken up the slack.
I do have a leak down tester I'm about to check with that.
 
All I hear is a small amount of air going past piston. Nothing in the valve area leaking through. Nothing in the header area either.

20230716_094321.jpg
 
Based off of this that's 7% leak which is normal operation. I might have dodged a bullet
 
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