yeah i'm not going to reuse this cam. i honestly didn't like it because of the power band was from mid to high. Didnt work very well with idle stop light surging and light cruise surging.K... before you put it all together take off the rockers and spin the cam by hand in the block, if a bolt got between the sprocket and a chain it could easily have bent the cam. (if you reuse the cam.. best to check that anyway) I'm glad it's nothing TOO bad though..
P.S. Blue loctite next time
Help me find the umph in my 360
- Thread starter dustyaman
- Start date
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cool.. and yeah.. keeping it fun to drive is a big thing
I got rid of my 71 challenger cause i swapped cams and hated the car after words (.484 purpleshaft to a .509)
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dartindanno
Well-Known Member
I know guys have said this already but it could have been worse. You're doing a great job of researching and I hope you get it together and back on the road real soon. Good luck!
Here are the good Melling SPD-22 Camshafts.
Same grind as the famous mopar 340 cam. Have used them multiple times with geat success.
Performance and run nice too.
For sale on ebay and in stock too.
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Same grind as the famous mopar 340 cam. Have used them multiple times with geat success.
Performance and run nice too.
For sale on ebay and in stock too.
☆☆☆☆☆
Would that lift be ok or to small for the springs on the speedmaster heads? speedmaster advertises the spring rate up to 600 lift
It will be fine.
Up to ^^^ .600 lift.
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Up to ^^^ .600 lift.
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keep the cam get a set of rhoads vari duration lifters
those heads like that cam over 3500
it will have strong low end and idle like a stock cam vacuum wise if you have 12@idle you will have 15 to 16
drop your duration@50 to 213 to 218 from 228 after 3500 rpm you get full lift and duration
i have used them on 3 motors they work
243@50 g/k cam
484 purple shaft cam
474 purple shaft cam
those heads like that cam over 3500
it will have strong low end and idle like a stock cam vacuum wise if you have 12@idle you will have 15 to 16
drop your duration@50 to 213 to 218 from 228 after 3500 rpm you get full lift and duration
i have used them on 3 motors they work
243@50 g/k cam
484 purple shaft cam
474 purple shaft cam
Ok sounds good.
Not sure what spring rate you have on the speed master heads.
Like to see a lighter spring rate on the springs for breaking in the cam and lifters.
Once the cam is broke in then you switch out the springs to the recommended ones.
Want to lighten up the load a bit during break in with all the "Chewing Up Cam" problems people have been having at break in.
Single coil springs are better choice for break in vs the double coils.
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Like to see a lighter spring rate on the springs for breaking in the cam and lifters.
Once the cam is broke in then you switch out the springs to the recommended ones.
Want to lighten up the load a bit during break in with all the "Chewing Up Cam" problems people have been having at break in.
Single coil springs are better choice for break in vs the double coils.
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I must of gotten lucky on this summit cam because i used the heads to break in the cam. Granted i used a ton of zinc additive also.
I have never seen an actual chain break, but a little loctite on the bolts may have prevented it.
This next go around I will put loctite on the bolts this go around. Based off the engine rebuild books they say just torque the bolts to spec and I did that. So yes now that this happened I'm definitely adding loctite to the bolts. Also where can I get the chain oil slinger that goes with one of the bolts? I know you can use the circle slinger that goes on the crank. But where can I find the one that goes on the bottom left bolt? I can't find one. I'm getting my parts list together.
I'll be honest.. i have rarely loctited anything or actually used torque specs on things like that retainer plate.. i think you just had bad luck this time.. i will be loctiting everything now though
I would not change the camshaft, but degree it as I outlined. The cam you have is fine, it's just in the wrong position in the engine. It will ultimately make more power advanced more than a smaller cam would. But you seem dead set on changing it, so go for it.
Check mancini's for the slinger.
I'm worried the way the chained was jammed and snapped from the bolts falling out that it could of created a micro fracture on the cam that i cant see.. I'm not sure if I want to risk it.
The only slinger that I saw on Mancini racings sight was the crank slinger. But it looks like Hughes has one
I actually like those specs of that camshaft you recommend. I had heard Howard's is a decent cam company.
They also answer emails within a couple of hours... nice peoples, i have a howards sitting here for my 318.. not looking like i will ever get it together at this point though
Email howards and ask them if they have that cam in stock.. mine said months also and i emailed them and had it in 3 days
CNC has it listed for less also.. might wanna check if they have it in stock
cnc-motorsports.com
Howards Camshaft Lifter Kit CL711451-08 Hydraulic Flat Tappet SB Chrysler LA
Fits Small Block Chrysler LA 1964-2003 273, 340, 360 and 1967-1991 318, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, 1800 to 5800 RPM Range, .506 Int Lift .506 Ex Lift, Includes Camshaft and Lifters (PN 91711)
cnc-motorsports.com
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