jesus. i have never seen that happen before.... sucks but gonna have to fix it anyway.. dig in and verify
Help me find the umph in my 360
- Thread starter dustyaman
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One of my guys at work is going to go grab his trailer at lunch and I will get it home on the trailer. After that who knows I guess I will start breaking it down. Only maybe 100 miles on the engine.jesus. i have never seen that happen before.... sucks but gonna have to fix it anyway.. dig in and verify
Ok. Allitle more detail so the cam is definitely not spinning had a guy watch the cam while kicking the key... nothing pulled the valve cover none of the rockers move. And all the rockers look like this in the picture. They all look like they are sitting on the base circle
Wow.. ok.. that's very odd... very interested to see what you find now...
I decided to do a breakdown at least get the intake manifold off the engine and see what the cam looks while I was on my 1 hour lunch break. So in the valley there was a chunk if metal that looked to be the end of the cam retainer plate. I stuck my fingers inside the 2 sight holes from inside the valley and still fealt the cam gear and chain still attached. So I'm wondering if the front part of the cam snapped where I can't see it. Or the woodruff key stripped out of the cam and caused the cam retainer plate to snap. And that's why the cam isn't moving when cranking because the gear is just gliding around the cam.
Possible.. also could just be the key on the crank sheared.... at least so far nothing looks too bad
Cloyes is not a good brand anymore. They're now made overseas. Have been for some time. I hope that's not the problem. If it is, you've bent some valves too, most likely.
I've been there. It's frustrating, but it's all part of the hobby. With everything that happens, good or bad, you're learning and in the end that's a good thing.
Wouldn't the pushrods show some type of bent if the valve touched the pistons? That's the weirdest thing inspecting all the the lobes, pushrods everything looks normal on the cam except what I can't see on the opposite side of timing chain cover.
no.. could bend a little and not bend a pushrod.. no matter what, when you replace the sheared key.. run a compression test on all cyls before starting it.. then you will know for sure.. so far it's not looking too bad though
Maybe, maybe not.
Have you determined what's wrong yet?
I have the car on my buddy's trailer. He will tow it to my house after work. Then I will start the disassembly on the front side of the engine.. I will keep you all updated.
I can check the pistons with a borascope Camera i have at the house also to see if there was any valve hitting. Also either way since I'm going to tear this thing apart I'm going to get a better camshaft that's made for what my engine is. Since it is a low compression engine. So what would be a good brand camshaft and timing chain?
Lets not put the cart before the horse. Find out what's wrong first.
With your low compression pistons, along with the motor shutting down almost as soon as this happened, maybe not. But I agree with Icetech's answer, too (#112). Also, one or more valve heads could be bent, but pushrods OK. Stranger things have happened.
^^^but keep plugging, one foot ahead of the other, one at a time. You will get it and figure it out and have learned a lot in the process.
That will be his saving grace, I believe. Pistons down over .100" in the hole might have saved him.
Ugg somehow 2 retaining plate bolts came loose and fell. And snapped the timing chain and snapped the retaining plate it 2 spots. Also the oil spreader got shredded also. I torqued these bolts to spec. And I have no idea how two of them fell out.
I bet dollars to doughnuts the camshaft sprocket wasn't bottomed all the way and was wedged on crooked causing the bolts not to bottom properly. I've seen that exact thing happen before. Hopefully, that's the extent of it.
I checked the inside on the spark plug holes and looked at all my pistons with my parascope. There is no nicks from the valves that I saw. So I think I'm fine there.
So I'm starting to add parts to buy from Mancini racing that replaces what has been broken. I do want to go ahead and just spend the money on a new cam that better suites my low compression. So what is a good cam that is great for low compression that keeps vaccum high enough for my power brakes, and has around a 480 lift with keeping the power band from 1300s to 5500 range that better suites my stock converter? I'm allitle iffy on the comp cams with the lifter issues from them.
K... before you put it all together take off the rockers and spin the cam by hand in the block, if a bolt got between the sprocket and a chain it could easily have bent the cam. (if you reuse the cam.. best to check that anyway) I'm glad it's nothing TOO bad though..
P.S. Blue loctite next time
P.S. Blue loctite next time
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