Help me re-route trans cooler lines

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Evan Dutch

Evan Dutch

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Just installed some Doug’s headers on my 1971 Plymouth scamp. 360 magnum/904 combo.

I previously made a set of trans cooler hoses that run to a large trans cooler in front of the radiator (the two black braided hoses).

However, they are awfully close to my new headers. I’m not sure how to go about running them to where they won’t be as close to the header. Worried about the heat damaging the braided hoses of course.

Any suggestions/ how are you guys running headers with trans cooler lines?

Thanks!

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Bend oem style inf steel lines (like AGS epoxy coated hanging in the back of your local part store in various lengths) that hug the pan. They can be clipped to each other for more support.
 
Ran mine through thermal wrap on the outside of the steering box with the battery cable coming from the trunk. The black half round box acts as my Positive battery post. You can get these at any battery outlet. I got mine a Deka battery as where I got the cable. All the braided hoses are Fragola

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MV8 said:
Bend oem style inf steel lines (like AGS epoxy coated hanging in the back of your local part store in various lengths) that hug the pan. They can be clipped to each other for more support.
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I’d like to stick with AN hoses. I’ve already got the male AN fittings installed into the trans case
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Ran mine through thermal wrap on the outside of the steering box with the battery cable coming from the trunk. The black half round box acts as my Positive battery post. You can get these at any battery outlet. I got mine a Deka battery as where I got the cable. All the braided hoses are Fragola

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I’ll probably do something like this. But there doesn’t appear to be much room for the hoses to run to the drivers side frame past the Zbar and trans linkage
 
Use the fire sleeve that is meant for this application. Like this.

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Using that plastic loom crap for anything is hack. Yes even new car use it, it’s cus they are hacks and every penny counts when making a profit…
 
If you are an experienced welder, you could spot weld tabs to the pan to hold the lines away with addel clamps and machine screws with lock nuts. 0.080-0.100" would work well or buy light gauge nut plates. If using fire sleeve (silicon coated fiberglass weave), make sure it is sized at least as big as the braid od or slightly larger. Probably about $20 for three feet in a size big enough depending on the source. Could also use header wrap around the lines and safety wire.
 
MV8 said:
If you are an experienced welder, you could spot weld tabs to the pan to hold the lines away with addel clamps and machine screws with lock nuts. 0.080-0.100" would work well or buy light gauge nut plates. If using fire sleeve (silicon coated fiberglass weave), make sure it is sized at least as big as the braid od or slightly larger. Probably about $20 for three feet in a size big enough depending on the source. Could also use header wrap around the lines and safety wire.
Click to expand...
I’d like to keep the hoses where they are now but they’d still be very close to the header and center link
 
Copper-nickel tubing is VERY easy to bend and flare. You can run it where you want and make it go straight to the trans like factory lines. I flared mine to AN ends without issue. Using this material, you don't have to worry about degradation over time. If you get to a spot where it's too tight or complicated to bend, just flare it and connect to your braided lines. If I can do it, ANYONE can do it!!
 
Thank you for the suggestions guys. I was able to route them along the drivers side frame rail. One of the hoses I made had enough length to allow me to just reroute it. The other was too short. I had to make a new AN hose and swap the fitting from a 90 to a straight fitting. Both hoses are ran along the drivers frame and between the gearbox and frame. It’s close to the torsion bar but still clears. And is further away from the header
 
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